voltmeter warning - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2006, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 36
iTrader: (0)
 
Unhappy voltmeter warning

I've noticed a few lower-than-usual readings on my voltmeter latell - a few warning beeps(low charging warning) at stop lights but ok when I am moving. The usual 13.6 - 14.8.
This morning I noticed that the meter was showing very low readings - 12.2 and down to 11.7 while moving at 4000 rpms. It occasionally went up to 14.0 but dropped down to less than 12.8. And when I stopped and went to neutral, it went to 10.6. All this time the bike has been performing as usual.

I do have the MF battery, relocated the R/R, and just changed the oil.

Where do I start looking? Do I have a stator or R/R problem?

Rick
trturnerfamily is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2006, 11:01 AM
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 61
iTrader: (0)
 
Check it with another volt meter on the battery and see if you get the same reading on both........
vulcan460 is offline  
post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2006, 05:21 PM
Now what
 
Ironman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Renton, Wa. USA
Posts: 400
iTrader: (0)
 
Every electrical thing starts with a known good battery, so have your battery load tested by a battery shop. If it's still ok check the voltages as follows:
Using a digital VOM, take readings at the battery with the engine running. Measure the voltage when the rpm is 2500. It should be 13.5 or more. If not, you'll have to use the fault finding diagram. The link for it is on this page, http://tinyurl.com/c2zou It'll help you track down what's wrong. Hopefully it's just your existing voltmeter.

Bad ground connections and any other sub par electrical connection would be worth looking for while you have the seat off too.

'04 750A- and loving it!
VROC 13864
Using a Purlator One PL14610
"Sixth gear? I don't need no stinkin sixth gear!"
If someone throws you under the bus-remember to tuck and roll
Ironman is offline  
 
post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2006, 06:05 PM
Once Banned
 
cegodsey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bryant, Arkansas
Posts: 2,125
iTrader: (0)
 
Yeah, like Ironman said, use the PDF as far as you can. If you want to check your stator without getting into the PDF, then pull the plug on the regulator and check the voltages on the yellow wires at different rpms. I think the range is something like 40-80 volts AC.

2000 A16
Drilled baffles
$65 leather saddle bags
Kuryaken grips
relocated R/R
de-badged
25,000+ original owner miles
cegodsey is offline  
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2006, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 36
iTrader: (0)
 
Thanks for the words of wisdom. I'll get a digital voltmeter and start checking.
After I wrote my first note about this, I put the bike on the battery tender. It showed green after about two hours. Is it possible the battery was not fully charged? It's been HOT around here the past week and the engine has been running hot - needle to the right of the icon. The fan has been going on at every stop-sign, light, and when I shut the bike off.
I took the bike out and the numbers were good. Only one beep at a light
(11.5) and the reading went up to 14.8 after I got up to 3000+ RPMs.
Make any sense?

Rick
trturnerfamily is offline  
post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2006, 09:55 PM
Once Banned
 
cegodsey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bryant, Arkansas
Posts: 2,125
iTrader: (0)
 
I think you still have a problem. But in the future, this is not a bike to be riding in parades, or slow moving situations where the fan is required to come on. As to it being hot, how old is the coolant? Fergy and Hizzo and myself and a lot of other people here down south (and west) ride in much hotter weather. Hizzo and you may end up with a lot in common - his stator went out because of the Dallas heat and having to drive in traffic jams. Hopefully, yours is just the regulator or even the battery itself.

But then, like I'm the one to say anything, after driving my daughter around at speeds not exceeding 20 for about 30 minutes. But the fan never came on.

2000 A16
Drilled baffles
$65 leather saddle bags
Kuryaken grips
relocated R/R
de-badged
25,000+ original owner miles
cegodsey is offline  
post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2006, 10:03 PM
Once Banned
 
cegodsey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bryant, Arkansas
Posts: 2,125
iTrader: (0)
 
Got to thinking about it. It could be that your thermostat is prevented from opening fully. I was looking at that previous thread where you were asking about where the temp. gauge should be. It does seem a little high, especially since the shop replaced my stator and now mine runs cooler.

2000 A16
Drilled baffles
$65 leather saddle bags
Kuryaken grips
relocated R/R
de-badged
25,000+ original owner miles
cegodsey is offline  
post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-07-2006, 12:09 AM
Uber Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,280
iTrader: (0)
 
Send a message via AIM to Hizzo3 Send a message via Yahoo to Hizzo3
yes, sadly that is common in the heat. the voltage drop is because our stators dont produce enough at idle....i think it comes out to like 9 volts. Something i am working on. I am in the process of ordering an oil cooler as well to see if that aleviates some heat issues on me. gotta wait on that though cause i just bout my stator componets, a new r/r, a much bigger battery, and some Givi bag with the brackets. waiting for those to come in, and my next paycheck lol. In the mean time, all i can suggest is keep it moving in 90+ days. even if this means you have to bypass traffic by taking a longer route, it will give you a few extra miles on the charging system.

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


Band Engineer/Webmaster for Josey Contreras Tejano Band
Hizzo3 is offline  
post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-07-2006, 12:01 PM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 198
iTrader: (1)
 
Hey Hizzo: Can you tell us more about the oil cooler... Do you have a link?

Thanks! Mark
Mark is offline  
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-11-2006, 07:53 AM
Senior Member
 
stan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Billerica, MA
Posts: 154
iTrader: (2)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hizzo3
yes, sadly that is common in the heat. the voltage drop is because our stators dont produce enough at idle....i think it comes out to like 9 volts. Something i am working on. I am in the process of ordering an oil cooler as well to see if that aleviates some heat issues on me. gotta wait on that though cause i just bout my stator componets, a new r/r, a much bigger battery, and some Givi bag with the brackets. waiting for those to come in, and my next paycheck lol. In the mean time, all i can suggest is keep it moving in 90+ days. even if this means you have to bypass traffic by taking a longer route, it will give you a few extra miles on the charging system.
I'd be interested in oil cooler info as well.....

VROC #12293
2004 VN750
MSF Ridercoach

new tires (OEM Stones) 6/2008
home made floorboards (knifemakers styling)
stator replaced 6/2008
cobra slashcuts 7/2007
clear alternatives brake & tailight 8/2008
Added Mutazu hard bags 3/2009
added customLED load equalizers for the bags LED lights 3/2009
stan is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome