Rust Around Sparkplug - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-01-2012, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Rust Around Sparkplug

My rear cylinder on the right side has a bunch of rust where spark plug goes in. Any tips on getting it out? I have attached a few pictures.

This problem isn't that uncommon I'd guess? Considering the angle of the opening it seems like a perfect spot for water to sit indefinitely after a rain.

I'm going to replace all the plugs with the suggested iridium plugs and want to get all of the rust out without getting any in the engine. I was thinking spray a ton of WD40, let sit, scrub with a tooth brush, then rinse out with a hose. I'm guessing this will work pretty well but I don't think a tooth brush will fit at the bottom where plug is and that looks to be where the most rust is.

Thanks!



EDIT - Just realized the "spark plug retainer" unscrews. Any tips for removing this piece and minimizing the crud that ends up in the engine? As well as reinstalling without messing up anything. Thanks!
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1993 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

Last edited by blastagator; 04-01-2012 at 08:13 PM.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-01-2012, 10:27 PM
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there is a bolt on the bike... I think its the rear axle nut (some one correct me if I am wrong) that fits inside the retainer, then you just use a socket and ratchet to unscrew the spark plug retainer.

First though spray the spark plug with PB Blaster and let soak, then remove spark plug, then remove said retainer.. other wise spark plug is going to be a pain to remove.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-01-2012, 11:24 PM
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Mine was bad too. Luckily, the plugs where barely torqued. If you remove the retainer, does it have to go back in? What is its purpose, I never seen that before?
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-02-2012, 02:37 AM
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yes it has to go back in.. the retainer is to keep the steel spark plug threads from rusting into the aluminum head.. so in case of the threads getting messed up you can replace the retainer instead of the head.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-02-2012, 09:22 AM
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Drain hole stopped up?

The reason the plug is recessed on that side of cylinder is the cam chains are on that side, on the front cylinder it is the other side. If there were only 2 plugs they would probably be on the other side of each cylinder where recessing them would not be necessary. When you remove this tube there are two o-rings you should replace so you do not develope an oil leak. There is a drain passage to the rear of the rear cylinder and one to the front of the front cylinder, these need to be clear so water can drain out of the tube. Your rear one must be stopped up to allow water to sit and cause such corrosion. I would use a small skinny screwdriver to loosen up as much crud as possible then run a small wire through drain passage and vacume it out before I removed spark plug or the tube. When you have removed the tube you can clean it much easier. The rear axle nut does fit into the tube to unscrew it. You could also use compressed air to blow the crud out of tube and passage, be sure to wear eye protection! Putting it back together is just the reverse of removing it. Try to insure that nothing gets into the spark plug hole or the engine while doing this!! One place to get the proper o-rings is BikeBandit.com Part numbers are 92055 31mm & 92055B 27.7mm if you get them there. A dealership would want Part numbers 11028-1085 31mm & 11028-1097 27.7mm, or at least the dealer where I live did. Of course the dealership did not have them.

Last edited by Jeff Barnes; 04-02-2012 at 06:17 PM.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-02-2012, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Barnes View Post
PM me and I'll tell you where I got the proper o-rings, I don't want to advertise for anyone on our site.
??????

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
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1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-02-2012, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Barnes View Post
I'll tell you where I got the proper o-rings, I don't want to advertise for anyone on our site.
It's more than acceptable to detail where you obtained replacement parts. At the very least, the correct part numbers would be helpful. This forum is all about sharing of information!

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-02-2012, 06:19 PM
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Sharing information

How does that look now? Better?
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-02-2012, 06:40 PM
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Lookin good

I try to make my posts with the thought that someone 2-3 years down the line may be looking up the issue via the search box, so I try to post as much information as possible.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-05-2012, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the input guys! Ordered o-rings, once they come in I'll try to clean it up and let you know how it goes.

1993 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
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