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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2012, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, MORE Stator Questions.

Ok, so my battery has been going dead. I had a couple of rear turn signal wires exposed, and thought maybe that was it; nope. After charging the battery all night, rode the bike 30 minutes to work, started up at the end of the day, rode the 30 minutes back, and it died again.

To make a long story short, I tested each of the wires coming from the stator, with red lead on one wire and black lead at the bikes ground point. I got continuity on all three wires. Now, the Clymer manual says to do this with the engine warm; I didn't, does it really make that much of a difference?

My next question is where is the best place to get a stator?

I called the bike shop here in Georgetown, TX, and they told me the stator is $445 + tax, and another $550 to put it in.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Byorec

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2012, 01:48 PM
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It still might not be the stator, you need to check the regulator. Search the electrical forum here for the tests.

When my bike wasn't charging, I performed the AC voltage tests to the 3 wires, and determined one was bad. Did you test for that? Here's a good link with charging info:

https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthrea...Stator+voltage

$455 is WAY too much for a stator. I'd recommend the Tim Parrot rebuilt Stator. You send him yours, and he rewires, it, for 70 bucks! He does a great job, and is a cool guy, you can call him and he will answer all your questions:

http://www.tpe-usa.com/



Pete Herrmann
1994 Vulcan 750 40K on the clock and counting....

Bought 4/2011 28k Miles,
New Rick's Motorsports R/R
Tim Parrot Stator
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2012, 02:56 PM
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If you checked the stator wires at the R/R connector, Try disconnecting the stator wires at the bullets and do your readings again. This would eliminate a wire problem between the bullet connectors and the R/R, If you have a short to ground from the stator wires then the stator is shorted and needs to be repaired. No need testing the R/R at that point. However I would change the R/R along with the stator, that was the advice given to me when my stator went.
X2 on what peter mentioned, Tim Parrot is the way to go.
Just to give you a heads up. IF your left hand engine cover has not been modified then the engine will need to be removed. Let us know how to help you further
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2012, 03:29 PM
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3x on Tim Parrot & you don't have to completely remove the engine. You can dismantle as if you're going to remove it & tilt or shift it some. You only need to clear enough room to get the bottom front bolt out of the cover. It hits the frame. Another wonderful design by ma kaw.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2012, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ifixf18s View Post
If you checked the stator wires at the R/R connector, Try disconnecting the stator wires at the bullets and do your readings again. This would eliminate a wire problem between the bullet connectors and the R/R, If you have a short to ground from the stator wires then the stator is shorted and needs to be repaired.
I disconnected the stator at the bullets, and went from stator wire to ground, and from R/R side of the bullets and did the same. Nothing on R/R side, got continuity on each stator wire to ground.

Byorec

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2012, 04:59 PM
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Seems you have a bad stator, like alot of us who own a VN750. Just a bit of information to help you understand (not knowing your electrical background). All 3 of the stator wires should have continuity to each other, so if one leg is shorted to GND you would read a short on a the other 2 as well. Unless of course one leg is open.
Since the stator wires are an input to the R/R the short was felt by the R/R also, So there is a possiblility it could be bad. So putting a new stator in the bike with a shorted R/R you could damage the new stator. I replaced both and went with the MOSFET R/R. That was the other advice I learned from this forum.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ifixf18s View Post
Seems you have a bad stator, like alot of us who own a VN750. ...... So putting a new stator in the bike with a shorted R/R you could damage the new stator. I replaced both and went with the MOSFET R/R. That was the other advice I learned from this forum.
Thanks for the info. Now I have another question. How long would it take for the old R/R to ruin the new stator? I want to replace both; however I'm going to have the dealership or a bike repair shop replace the stator, and I don't want to put the new R/R on before the stator.

Byorec

2000 VN750
Over 37,000 miles
Battery-Minder Plus
Maintenance Free Battery
MCCT
Ride-On
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Ear Shave
V&H Cruzers Exhaust
Mutazu Saddle Bags
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 04:17 PM
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Good question, Im not really sure. Then it might not even be an issue at all. Replacing both was the advice I got for the same reason I mentioned to you.

Its going to get expensive for u to have the shop replace it. Sounds like your just going to buy a stator from there for $400 + vice $70 to have yours rewound from Tim Parrot. Not to mention 80-90 bucks an hour for labor. what has been said here is he uses better materials then what was used on the OEM stator.
I was a bit leary at first before I sent mine to him. I had prblems with the payment I sent him(my fault). And he really treated me right sent me my stator back so I could get my bike running sooner and trusted me to fix the problem and send him the money. Oh well im just blabbing now. hope you get your bike back on the road soon.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ifixf18s View Post
Good question, Im not really sure. Then it might not even be an issue at all. Replacing both was the advice I got for the same reason I mentioned to you.

Its going to get expensive for u to have the shop replace it. Sounds like your just going to buy a stator from there for $400 + vice $70 to have yours rewound from Tim Parrot. Not to mention 80-90 bucks an hour for labor. what has been said here is he uses better materials then what was used on the OEM stator.
I was a bit leary at first before I sent mine to him. I had prblems with the payment I sent him(my fault). And he really treated me right sent me my stator back so I could get my bike running sooner and trusted me to fix the problem and send him the money. Oh well im just blabbing now. hope you get your bike back on the road soon.
Found a local bike repair shop, waiting for him to return my email to find out how much it will cost. However, whether I take it to him or the dealership, I'm going to provide the stator. I thought about getting it rewound, but found a new one from Electrosport for $131(including shipping), and should have it in about a week. No way I'm going to pay over $400!

Byorec

2000 VN750
Over 37,000 miles
Battery-Minder Plus
Maintenance Free Battery
MCCT
Ride-On
Upsized Metzeler ME880 Tires
Ear Shave
V&H Cruzers Exhaust
Mutazu Saddle Bags
F&S Saddlebag bracket
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