Brand New Battery Not Keeping Full Charge - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Brand New Battery Not Keeping Full Charge

I own a 1990 750 Vulacn 17,788 and still counting. I just purcahed a brand new sealed battery for my bike and my bike is dieing quickly.

What can cause it to die quick being I just brought a new battery?

Mind you my headlight switch is jammed on HIGH BEAMS meaning as soon as I turn on the bike the high beams are on and always on. Can that cause this problem?

Also I put the battery on the charger mostly every night once I bring in the garage from riding and I leave it over night or when ever till the next time i ride.

So with that being said what can cause this problem and how can I fix it?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 10:23 AM
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It could be your charging system is at fault. Check the stator AC output with a multi-meter. Believe the procedure is in the manual.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 11:43 AM
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Hows it going? If you have a multimeter you need to remove the seat and with the bike running at 3000-4000 RPM's measure the voltage across the battery. You should have close to 14 VDC maybe a bit higher. Anything over 15 VDC you may have a bad R/R. If you have batterty voltage 12VDC and you can see this value decrease as the bike is running then you have a charging system problem.
If thats the case you need to inspect the wires going to the R/R and also check the grounds, One on the engine case and one next to the Neg terminal of the battery. in fact it goes to the neg terminal of the battery.
The Second step would be to do continuty checks of the stator. The 3 yellow wires on the R/R plug are your stator wires. Unplug the R/R and check each one to ground. You should have NO continuity. Then check each wire to another. Mentally lable them 1,2 &3. Check 1-2, 1-3, & 2-3. you should have 1-2 OHMS resistance for these readings.
Let us know what you come up with.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 01:24 PM
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Just curious what charger you are using? I read somewhere that older battery temders are not good to use on AGM batteries.
Of coarse, this would not explain why your battery is low in the first place.

If you are running your high beam at idle, you could be draining the battery. Is the physical switch stuck or is it always using the high beam (which could be a result of the reserve lighting control) is the low beam part of the bulb burned out? That would cause the system to turn on the high beam.

Check your charging system as stated by the others, but search for Stator test as well as testing the R/R output.

Good luck! let us know what you find.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 03:04 PM
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Check my signature for the repair manual to download. You can read up on all the issues & how to fix them. To check your bulb remove the two small screws on each side of the headlight housing at 8 & 4. With them removed you can remove the headlight & check you filliment in the bulb visually & see if one is broken.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Okay so I took you guy's advice, I did some testing on some of the electrical components on the bike and my readings are not coming back correct. I just ordered a voltage regulator and a starter solenoid relay. Once I get these part's I hope this will fix my problem.

Thank You If you have more suggestions or answers please let me know
post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-03-2012, 07:45 AM
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What readings did you get, and what did they indicate? Replacing the regulator/rectifier on a bike with a bad stator can lead to failure of the new R/R.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-03-2012, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc2dgq View Post
Just curious what charger you are using? I read somewhere that older battery temders are not good to use on AGM batteries.
Of coarse, this would not explain why your battery is low in the first place.

If you are running your high beam at idle, you could be draining the battery. Is the physical switch stuck or is it always using the high beam (which could be a result of the reserve lighting control) is the low beam part of the bulb burned out? That would cause the system to turn on the high beam.

Check your charging system as stated by the others, but search for Stator test as well as testing the R/R output.

Good luck! let us know what you find.
I can`t find the reference in the verses or the Clymer manual right now, but I think the reserve lighting unit only switches on the remaining headlight filament once, when the first filament initally burns out. Once the headlight hi/low switch is moved back and forth or the bike is turned off and restarted, the reserve lighting unit doesn`t automatically switch to the remaining filament.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-03-2012, 09:59 PM
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X2 with Flitecontrol, You need to check that stator. You can burn out the new R/R. The input to the R/R comes from the stator so if its bad the output will not be correct. What kind of R/R did you order?
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 07:36 PM
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Alright y'all...

I am having a similar issue with my '86, so I am posting here instead of starting a new thread.

I just replaced my Stator and Battery. (I actually dropped the engine to do it right) The bike ran great all day, then BAM. Battery dead. I haven't yet replaced the R/R so I'm thinking that I may need to do that.

We got this bike as a POS for $100 and have just been cleaning and building on it. It's one of those, 'It looks so bad that it looks good' bikes.

I'm going to put meters to it again tonight, but wanted to get opinions.

...All you see from me are Dust & Taillights...
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