Removing Rear Turn Signals - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Removing Rear Turn Signals

Can somebody tell me how to get the rear turn signals off to relocate them? They seem to be stuck. I've built hardware that's in orbit an even floating around the solar system, but can't figure out how to get these off. Without breaking them that is. I assumed they'd just pull out after removing the screw.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 12:21 AM
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You have to turn them, i forget if it's left or right, then they pull out.

"Show me a man who makes no mistakes, and I'll show you a man who doesn't do things." Theodore Roosevelt."

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Current projects - 1986 VN750 & 1988 EL250
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 12:45 AM
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yeah, just turn them about 90 degrees (i think either direction) and they pop right out.

1986 Vn750
18,800 miles, and counting
Bone Stock
New cam chain tentioners
all fluids changed
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windshield
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*wanted*
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2001 Vn750
13,100 miles, and counting
spline lube
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rear end oil change
aftermarket mirrors
windshield
otherwise all stock
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Guys

So to do a turn signal relocation, you usually hack off the end that has the locking feature? This has turned into a bigger job than I thought.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 04:21 AM
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Kelly-

Where are you trying to relocate them to? Do you have relocation brackets?

Getting them off is pretty simple.. Just as the other members have said.. You take the screw out and you can turn them either direction about 90 degrees and they pop out..

If you have purchased a relocation kit then they will go into the kit the exact same way.. You don't have to shave anything off.. There are other MODS that you can look up if you don't have the relocation kit like Kanuck69 has in his siggy...

Give some more info on what your trying to do and what tools you have to do it and I am sure we can help you out more.

Accomplishments;

Changed Final Drive Fluid
Iridium Plugs

NGK Spark Plug Wires
Bridgestone Spitfire Tires
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Lubed the Spline
Shaved and Coastered
Under Tank Air Filter
Re-Jetted
Vn900 Seat Mod w/ Honda 1100 Backrest
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Custom Mirrors
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LED Taillight
Heads Up Voltage Monitor

Upcoming: Change front fork Seals & Oil, install highway pegs & floorboards
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 08:41 AM
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If you're looking to bolt them on somewhere else, they make aftermarket ones that will do that.

"Show me a man who makes no mistakes, and I'll show you a man who doesn't do things." Theodore Roosevelt."

2007 Victory Kingpin
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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I've got the Saddlemen license plate bracket. Going to cut off the end to make it flat and use a pen tube through the bracket hole. I have the LED ring brake lights inside the turn signals already and want to keep them.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 08:38 PM
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The signals pop right off after you remove the Phillips screw. That's what I had problems with. Even back when the bike was almost new, and I installed the Kawasaki saddlebag/turn signal relocation brackets, I stripped out the heads on both those screws. And I was using the right size screwdriver. I don't know what they are made of, but it sure doesn't seem like metal. When I finally got them out, I replaced them with Allen head bolts and flat washers.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
The signals pop right off after you remove the Phillips screw. That's what I had problems with. Even back when the bike was almost new, and I installed the Kawasaki saddlebag/turn signal relocation brackets, I stripped out the heads on both those screws. And I was using the right size screwdriver. I don't know what they are made of, but it sure doesn't seem like metal. When I finally got them out, I replaced them with Allen head bolts and flat washers.
That is why you need the right tool, Impact Driver with a #2 bit. Place it over the screw head and then just one tap on the end. The screw will be loose and ready to come out fully intact with just a few hand turns of a screwdriver. Check this out:

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html

It is only $6.99 and they have an even cheaper unit at $4.99. You can spend much more but it isn't necessary. This tool sure saves time, effort and eliminates rounding out screw heads. The driver will also take regular socket heads for stuck nuts and bolts. Its a great tool to have around just for saving the mental anguish a stuck screw creates during a simple project.

and always remember, "Ride until you rot!"
**Really not sure if the Big "C" is back right now
but having to face the fact that this is a lifetime routine
going forward. Five operations done and it still continues.

Tom
Vulcan 2000
New ride: 2009 Victory Vision Arlen Ness Signature Series
4507 miles

Last edited by Vulcan2000; 02-19-2012 at 12:40 AM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
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An impact driver is almost required to take the carbs apart.
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