Charging system woes - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Charging system woes

I'm having all kinds of electrical problems.
Started with the voltage being too low while the bike is running. Idle seems normal but even at 5000RPM I'm getting around 12.5V.

The RR was replaced a couple years ago so I'm not sure if that's faulty already.

One thing I did that might be a clue to someone. With the bike running I pulled the fuse to the headlight. The battery did read about a volt higher at all ranges. Which probably just means the light draws a volt. The odd thing is that when I put the fuse back in (bike still running) the light did not come back on. If fact, that light hasn't lit up again ever since.

I tested the junction box and some of the pins have resistance instead of infinity. And pin 15 only seems to work when I wiggle it. So obviously the junction box is in need of replacement.

Now to the stator, which worries me. I checked all three yellow wires and they all have continuity with ground. All combinations only give about 10V AC. I'm not sure if the low voltage is because the stator is dead or if it's because most of the current is grounding out.
I inspected the wires under the left engine plate and saw nothing that seemed unusual. I replaced them anyway but as you might expect there was no change.

Is the stator for sure screwed? Could a bad stator have damaged the junction box? Or could a bad junction box damage the stator?

Any insight would be appreciated. I've searched the forums as best I could but none of the previous threads that I saw mentioned how to deal with grounded out stator wiring or if this could even be normal.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 07:47 PM
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From everything I've read those reading indicate a bad stator. The stator goes directly to the R/R so I doubt the junction box caused the stator to fail. A bad/failing R/R can cause a stator to go bad eventually, however. You should test the R/R since it's quite easy if you have a multimeter with the appropriate capabilities.

Set the multimeter to the diode test. Place your negative multimeter lead on the positive connection on the R/R (top left). You should get a beep (good) on all 3 stator (bottom 3) connectors on the R/R. Now test with the positive multimeter lead on the ground connector on the R/R (top right) to all 3 stator connectors (bottom 3). You should get a beep on all of those as well. A solid tone or infinite reading on most multimeter means a bad diode.

I believe testing positive to negative on the R/R with either lead should generate a good beep as well.

Hope this helps.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. I've never used the diode test on my meter before so maybe I did something wrong but I got absolutely nothing when checking those pins. I tried the continuity test as well and also got nothing with that. Perhaps my RR is fried too.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bean View Post
Thanks for the info. I've never used the diode test on my meter before so maybe I did something wrong but I got absolutely nothing when checking those pins. I tried the continuity test as well and also got nothing with that. Perhaps my RR is fried too.
from all indications your stator is had,I have found that the factory tests for the R/R are inconclusive especially if you are not really sure if you performed them correctly.

If you feel the R/R is bad which it sounds like it probably is you may want to consider going to the newer and cooler running,MOSFET type R/R ,there are several members on here who have and most have had nothing but good things to say about the upgrade.




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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denny6006 View Post
from all indications your stator is had,I have found that the factory tests for the R/R are inconclusive especially if you are not really sure if you performed them correctly.

If you feel the R/R is bad which it sounds like it probably is you may want to consider going to the newer and cooler running,MOSFET type R/R ,there are several members on here who have and most have had nothing but good things to say about the upgrade.
I definitely agree with denny that testing the R/R is not exactly the easiest the first time, but I find them to be conclusive during my testing. I guess your mileage may vary depending on your meter.

(Some?) aftermarket R/Rs test the diodes both ways, while the stock R/R has one way diodes (I am not an electrical engineer so if that is explained incorrectly.. sorry).

Personally, I did not go the MOSFET route, but not because I have anything bad to say about it. A pulled R/R off ebay was cheaper and I was broke . I went for a stock R/R that was in good condition off a Ninja 600 (same part#), and I get the full 14.5v charge @ 2,300rpm. No charging is occurring at idle, which the MOSFET can do - big bonus there. Isn't the downside to the MOSFET the fact it does not have the 6th cable that turns it off when the bike is shut off? I think I read about current draw at all times, so a few installed some switches. Worth a search on the boards at least.

What I can say is do not buy some cheap-o new R/R. The one I replaced was less than 6 months old apparently, seems to be the cheaper $60 one sold on eBay from overseas.

I would possibly research a little bit on the diode testing and see if you can get some verifiable results. My third stator connector on the cheap-o r/r tested bad (solid tone), and two of the three tested bad on the old stock r/r that was oddly still mounted on the bike (one solid tone, one infinite reading). The used one I ordered on eBay passed all the tests first time around, and is working great.


I guess the real question is, could a bad junction box end up frying the r/r, which in turn, killing the stator? *CSI Glasses*

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350

Last edited by thtanner; 12-16-2011 at 12:18 AM.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
I guess the real question, is could a bad junction box end up frying the r/r, which in turn, killing the stator? *CSI Glasses*
I would say it is a very strong possibility but the way his post reads I lean toward the head light fuse blowing when he plugged it back in with the bike running,and I understand about the being low on funds when you buy a R/R,The only warning I would give is do not buy one of the cheap aftermarket ones,I too bought the original type from ebay and it was the Shindegen oem brand,as for the current draw problem ,I don't think that the members that ride their bikes on a regular basis found this problem,it is so small ,but one member that had left hie bike sitting for an extended period of time found this problem.A battery tender that is used for prolonged down times would alleviate this problem,along with being a good idea whenever your bike is parked for extended periods no matter what regulator used.But if you want to eliminate this this drain, find one wire that only has voltage on it with the key on and wiring it into normally open relay to run your charging wire through to the battery would open the circuit with the drain on it unless the key is on,Not a big deal and about eight buck at any automotive supply,good luck whichever route you take.




If you see it on my bike I did it
VROC#30324
92 vn750(sold)
Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot



Quote:
"When all is said and done,usually more is said than done" UNK
Click on one x and drag to the other to read between them.

Psalm 40:1...
XI waited patiently for the Lord; and he turned unto me, and heard my cry. X

Last edited by denny6006; 12-16-2011 at 12:31 AM.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 01:12 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah the RR I have on there now is actually from a Ninja. And the junction box I just ordered is also from a Ninja. Hell I think the engine and the frame are probably the only parts left not from a different bike/year hehe

The headlight fuse is still good. It was the first thing I checked. In fact I was surprised it was still good after that. But perhaps the relay is what died instead of the fuse.

Money is pretty tight right now but I'm still leaning towards a MOSFET. I don't want to have to replace the RR a third time. The minimal drain is not a big deal to me as I have a reliable trickle charger. Although I'll probably wire it to a switched power source anyway.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-17-2011, 04:29 AM
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Cut and dry, If your stator leads are shorted to ground and the stator wires are in good condition or stator is bad and needs replaced. Putting a new R/R without replacing the stator is a waist of time. If you Replace that R/R with a shorted stator you could be buying another R/R later.
I would replace both. I went with a mosfet R/R from roadstercycles and Tim parrot to have my stator rewound (much cheaper and he uses better materials-so i was told). Havent had any problems since.
The first sign I had when my stator went was my headlight not working.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-17-2011, 03:18 PM
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From what I have learned from this forum, it sounds like the stator is shot.
Here is a link to tim parrott`s stator rebuilt service on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/motorcycle-s...sories&vxp=mtr

He comes highly recommended by many previous customers.

Gordon

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Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

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TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-17-2011, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlHossCanada View Post
From what I have learned from this forum, it sounds like the stator is shot.
Here is a link to tim parrott`s stator rebuilt service on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/motorcycle-s...sories&vxp=mtr

He comes highly recommended by many previous customers.
I'm also just backing up Hoss that absolutely everything I have read about the rebuild service indicates they are top notch.

The whole R/R discussion was just centered around that it could have caused the stator to fail if it had gone, but the stator definitely indicates bad. Just make sure the rest of the components in the charging system are good prior to starting up the bike with the new or rewound stator so that it does not incur any damage.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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