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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chandler, Arizona
First of all, yes, fuses can wear out. Especially on something with vibration. They eventually fail, just like light bulbs. But not nearly as often. Nothing is perfect, and occasionally fuses may have a bit more current drawn through them than they are designed for, but not enough to blow them. But it can weaken them. Over time, they get weaker and weaker, their resistance goes up, and finally they blow. Depending on the metal used, it can develop higher resistance over time just by having current going through it. Even wire tends to become brittle over many years, though it is so many years it easily outlasts the bike. Circuit breakers eventually fail for the same reason, but usually last a lot longer than fuses. However, if a fuse is constantly blowing, you have excessive resistance somewhere in the circuit.
I live in the hottest place on earth, and the Vulcan's cooling system is marginal here. I have rejetted a couple of my air cooled bikes to help compensate. You need the thermostat in place, it not only functions as a thermostat, bur also as a metering device of sorts, restricting the coolant flow enough for the water pump to keep it moving. In other words, it serves as a volume regulator. You need the obstruction in the cooling system to keep things working properly. It will work even if stuck open, but it won't warm up as fast. It will quickly overheat if it sticks closed, as in the needle reaching red zone minutes after starting.
I have tried hardwiring the fan on a couple of liquid cooled bikes, so the fan would never shut off. It made no difference. The fans were running pretty much 90% of the time anyway. IMO, the best thing you can do with the Vulcan's cooling system, assuming it is not plugged up, and there is nothing mechanically wrong with it, is use the thermostat, and either premixed ETHLYNE GLYCOL coolant, or 50/50 ethylene glycol and distilled water. Make sure it is silicate free, or it will damage the water pump mechanical seal. I tried some stuff called Engine Ice, and quickly went back to ethylene Glycol. It ran just as hot with this stuff, but took longer to warm up to began with, and cooled off faster, which meant it took longer to warm the bike up initially, letting it idle unnecessarily, and even required allowing it to warm up again after only being parked a short time. I will not ride my bike until the needle on the temperature gauge reaches the second mark from the left. I would like to have an oil temperature gauge, as they are a more accurate indicator of actual engine temperature where it counts.
I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.
1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike