If the R/R on the bike is the original one having 12 VDC when the bike is at idle is normal. When the RPMS are increased the voltage should increase. From what you just said it seems you are getting close to 15VDC when increasing the RPMS, from that information seems to be its charging ok. A bit of good to know information on this bike and maybe even on others. You have to have a good Charged Battery The bike needs every bit of it to turn over the engine and power the ignition. If the battery starts getting weak it can be very hard if not impossible to start even though it may sound like the engine is turning over ok.
Did you go take the battery and get it tested? What was your findings on the stator continuity checks?
My feeling on the miles is that if the bike is properly maintained and taken care of 29K is nothing. I have a 2005 and already have 21K.
Ive read on here what others do to help make there bike run/start better.
1. NGK Iridium DPR7EIX-9 Spark Plugs (About 8$ each, no need to gap them)
2. A maintanence free battery MF-AGM
3. Use Seafoam as a gas treatment every so often for the carbs. Can get this at an auto parts store about 10$ a can. Get the kind you pour in the tank.
About your other question. As far as the stator, advice on here says go with Tim Parrot (Tim Parrot Enterprise) you remove your stator send it to him and he rewinds it. About 85$. Thats better then the $400 something Kaw wanted for a replacement. That advice I took and so far very pleased. He really treated me right. Stay away from Ricks stators. Also to remove your stator unless the left engine cover has been modified you have to remove the motor.
As far as the R/R, On here the popular choice is the MOSFET SHINDENGEN. I replaced mine with one and again so far very pleased 14-15VDC at idle.
Here is a couple links so you can visit about the stator and the R/R