Is my NEW R/R ok? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-29-2011, 03:59 AM Thread Starter
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Is my NEW R/R ok?

Will be putting in my new Electrosport stator & R/R soon. Just for grits & shins I performed some electrical tests on my brand new R/R. I followed the fault finding guide on E-sports wsite. It passed the diode tests with flying colors, all within specs.

Next I performed the Ma Kaw/Clymer resistance tests. I performed all 30 pairs of tests with an ANALOG tester. Everything was within specs except for 2 measurements. They are:

G(-) to M(+) measured INFINITY (should be 1-5k ohm)
G(-) to B(+) measured 6 on (X100) (should be .4-2K ohm)
..................measured 11 on (X10)
..................measured 3.2 on (X1k)

The meter was "zeroed" between each setting change and test. Soooo...

1) Is it ok?
2) Does it matter it has never been used, warmed up, or tested off the bike?

I won't even go into how confusing the different test results are, the math doesn't make sense to me-that will be another thread titled "Resistance, Reshmistance"

Please help Electric Gurus! Thanks in advance.

To Do List:

-T7 stator mod
-R/R relo
-MF Battery
-voltmeter
-ignition switch
-ACCT's to MCCT's
-LED brake & turns
-spline lube

Did I miss anything?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-29-2011, 12:05 PM
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Different manufacturer, different readings. Nothing to worry about.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-29-2011, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Roger this?

Thanks pappa. Does anyone want to "second that emotion"? Yes I'm talking to you, Flitecontrol, Sunpa, Slimvulcanrider and Fergy, etc. C'mon OHC I know you've got a thread to reference! -jim

To Do List:

-T7 stator mod
-R/R relo
-MF Battery
-voltmeter
-ignition switch
-ACCT's to MCCT's
-LED brake & turns
-spline lube

Did I miss anything?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 08:59 AM
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Whew, this is a lot of pressure! I'm not an electrical guru by any means, but my first thought when reading your test results was the same as pappa. I'm sure the readings on an OEM part would be the specs KAW is stating, and another mfg's part would read a little different. My guess is that the two readings you got that were not in spec aren't anything that will change the way the part works. But it's just a guess! (should come with a disclaimer!)

I replaced an r/r on one of my KZ's years ago after going through the fault finding flow chart, and never even tested the new one. It just worked. I would put the new one on and expect it to work. That's me though...

Fergy
Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 12:34 PM
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You are giving me too much credit when you call me an electrical guru! lol

I would tend to agree with pappa and fergy though. A different manufacturer may have slightly different specs.

The Cylmer manual recommends the ignition coils be warm before resistance testing, so in like manner I recommend taking your wife`s blow dryer and warming the r/r, then retest and see if the G to M and G to B results are closer to the Kaw specs.

BTW, after reading several threads about the Shindegen/mosfet r/r over the past several months, that is the one I will install if my original ever fails me.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/32290153/S...tifier-Install

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
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July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
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Last edited by OlHossCanada; 08-31-2011 at 12:36 PM. Reason: add link
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011, 09:45 AM
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First off, I don't like the so-called MAKAWA tests.. the readings are too vauge and even a brand new regulator fails these tests. I agree with Papa on this one...

I have fouund the better test is to make sure that the R/R is producing 12.5 volts at idle and climbs up to 14.0-14.5 Volts at 5000 rpm... that is on a fully charged battery. bench testing is ok, but not always very accurate. I hope this helps you.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pappa View Post
Different manufacturer, different readings. Nothing to worry about.
If pappa says it believe it




If you see it on my bike I did it
VROC#30324
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Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot



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"When all is said and done,usually more is said than done" UNK
Click on one x and drag to the other to read between them.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pappa View Post
Different manufacturer, different readings. Nothing to worry about.
I agree with pappa also.

Good idea though in checking out your new R/R before installation.
Did you check your new stator resistance also?

- Safety First

Paul

'04 VN750
'75 CB360T
'08 Concours 14
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-05-2011, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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New E-sport stator tests

Yes sunpa, infinite resistance to ground (all three). Don't have a R X 1 setting, but on R X 10 all three lead to lead measurements are ~0.1 ohms. Thanks everyone for your advice.

I'm with you, slim. I think resistance tests on R/R's is inconclusive.

-jim

To Do List:

-T7 stator mod
-R/R relo
-MF Battery
-voltmeter
-ignition switch
-ACCT's to MCCT's
-LED brake & turns
-spline lube

Did I miss anything?
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