Headlight issue - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-09-2011, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Headlight issue

I've tried everything I could find in old threads with no good outcomes, so here goes: My headlight on my '93 doesn't turn on. The only other non-functioning parts are the "Headlamp" and "High Beam" indicator lights. Blinkers, other running lights, starter, brake light, blinker and neutral and oil indicator lights all work correctly. I checked fuses, changed the lamp itself, checked for shorts and corrosion and connections to the best of my abilities, took apart the start button assembly and the ignition assembly, and I've got nothing! Actually, I did come across the set of colored wires coming from the stator (not the three yellow ones) which seem to have been in contact with the exhaust and melted some of the sheaths; I fixed that all up though.

This is my second VN750, and I love 'em, but this is one is starting to upset me! Thanks for everyone's expertise who have and continue to contribute to the forum.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-10-2011, 12:58 AM
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The other set of wires coming from the stator is the ignitor coils that sends the signal to the CDI box to fire the coils.
As for the headlight not working, I'm not going to be of much help as I'm not good with wiring on these bikes yet.
Some of the more experienced ones will jump in here shortly and help you out.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-10-2011, 03:13 PM
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If your bike will start. Start it, let it warm up for a bit then put a multimeter across the battery, set it up for VDC. Rev it up to 3000-4000 RPM and see what the voltage is, The voltage should rise close to 13-14VDC. The reason for this is to check to insure the bike's charging system is working. If the voltage is low (same as the battery <12VDC) you could have a stator problem. One leg from the stator is spliced and goes to the junction box for the operation of the headlight relay. This is why the headlight only come's on when the engine is running. Do this test and post what you find, then we can go from there. You mentioned a stator wire shorted to the frame so its possible the stator is bad. Of course all this pertains to a bike that is original and hasnt been modified.

You mentioned wires coming from the stator (not the yellow ones). The only wires coming from the stator are the 3 yellow wires. The other ones are what Raker mentioned. There wires that come from the pick-up coils, one for the front cyl and one for the rear. From what I know your bike will not start with bad pick-up coils or its wiring. If your battery is good the bike will start just fine with a bad stator and run untill the battery goes dead, just like if your alternator in your car goes.

Last edited by ifixf18s; 08-10-2011 at 03:26 PM.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-10-2011, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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The charging system seems fine. Voltage with revving the engine was 13.2+. But, the tachometer wasn't showing any RPMs- new symptom. (I can't be 100% positive that was going on before though, I did check a lot of connections, and I suppose it's possible that I could've shaken another one loose.) Wouldn't the headlight start by getting dim if the charging system was going bad? The bike starts and runs fine. I didn't even notice the headlight not functioning until I got off work at midnight and couldn't see the street!

BTY, the wires which were melted by touching the exhaust were the ones to the CDI.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-11-2011, 03:24 PM
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Testing the charging system was just a way to do a quick check to make sure the stator was working. That was the advice I got when my headlight stopped working, just happened to be a bad stator in my case.

You could still do a continuity check on the stator. Take the connector off the R/R and the 10 pin connector from the junction box. From the R/R connector check the continuity between all 3 yellow wires, should be I would say < 3 OHMS. Then check all 3 yellow wires to ground, should all be open (no continuity) Then check the continuity from the yellow wire on the JB connector to one of the yellow wires on the R/R. Should be the same as the others < 3 ohms. If all those are good you could have a bad headlight relay.
FYI the yellow wire that goes to the junction box is for the operation of the headlight relay.

As for the Tach. Maybe someone else could chime in about that.
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