hey cindy. sounds like you're in the boat as i am... just posted another charging system problem under the thread title 'introduction and diagnosing the charging system'.
from what i understand, there is a way to test the stator by using an ohmmeter on the three alternator leads coming out of the stator. you can do this without pulling the engine (of course, if the problem turns out to be a fried stator, you'll need to remove the engine (or at least cock it to the right) to replace the stator).
the procedure is described on page 15-18 of the service manual (if you have that)... otherwise, here is the procedure (reproduced from a file found on the vn750 yahoo groups forum (http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/VN750/)
Remove the left side cover and find the stator/RR leads. They will be 3 yellow wires w/ bullet connectors that go from the stator to the RR (under the battery box if not relocated). After charging your battery FULLY, you can do 3 tests to check the stator, as well as voltage tests at the battery and resistance measurements at the RR.
Stator Coil Resistance
Set VOM to read ohms on lowest scale.
After disconnecting the bullets, check the resistance between any 2 yellow leads on the stator side....you will do 3 measurements total. All three should be roughly the same, and be in the range of 0.34 ~ 0.52 ohms. If the measurement is higher than the spec, the stator has an open winding and must be replaced. If the measurment is lower, the stator is shorted and must be replaced.
Stator Coil Isolation test
Set VOM to the highest ohms range, and test the 3 leads vs a good ground. Red lead on the yellow, black on the ground. There should be NO continuity..none, on any of the 3 readings. Any reading less than infinity means stator died and went to heaven....
If you're still in the game after these two (great!), then start the bike w/ the stator wires still disconnected (fully charged battery!).
Set you VOM to AC volts, and check any two legs of the yellow stator wires, just as above.
You should see IDENTICAL AC readings, varying with the throttle, ranging from maybe 13 ~15vAC at idle to possibly more than 50 vAC at 5000rpms.
If your stator does OK on these three tests...lucky you...you just may have a bad RR or a battery.
When you do these tests, remember to jiggle wires around a bit to try to locate shorts.