Need Wiring Help & Rectifer Readings - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 03:08 AM Thread Starter
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Need Wiring Help & Rectifer Readings

Okay today I finished installing a new stator. Checked it with multimeter prior to install. I also installed a new gel mat battery. The idiot that owned the bike before me had replaced the stator & did some custom wiring. He used lots of butt connectors & quick connectors if that tells you anything.

He also replaced the R/R plug & had the positive & negative leads reversed. I guess that explains what happened to the new stator he installed.

Anyway, after looking at the wiring diagram & making some corrections to his mess, I fired up the bike. I am only getting about 13.2 volts max at any RPM above idle. At idle I get 12.8-9 volts, and it quickly jumps to 13.2 & stays there.

Anyone else ever have this issue?

I noticed on the wiring diagram that one of the stator leads goes to the R/R & also has a leg going to the JB. I've worked on a lot of Hondas & Yamahas & they don't have this. I think this is for the headlight relay. This just seems strange to me. I was thinking about removing the lead to the JB & rechecking the voltage, but wanted to ask 1st.

Anyway, I did not replace the R/R that was on the bike. It checked out good with my multimeter. All I could check was the diodes since my meter is digital.

So what type of voltage are you getting with a standard, non mosfet R/R?

Any suggestions? Replace R/R, remove extra leg from Stator to JB, etc? Thanks for your replies. Dean

Last edited by Dean W; 07-18-2011 at 03:09 AM. Reason: Added verbage
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 03:56 PM
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You are correct that the stator wire to the junction box goes for the headlight relay. This is how your headlight comes on only when the bike is running. If you remove it the headlight will no longer come on. However there is a way to bypass the relay and have your headlight come on when the key is turned to the on position. Me personally I would leave it alone. When my headlight did not come on it was the only way I knew I had a problem (bad stator). However I am looking into adding a voltage meter so I have a constant visual indication of my charging system. The manual says you should have 14-15 VDC when up on RPMS. Since he had a stator burn up I would replace the R/R anyway. They work together and one could cause the other to fail as well. I took the advice of many on here and went with the mosfet kit. I get close to 14VDC just at idle. Here is a link of how I did mine
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 12:38 AM
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Ifix is spot on. My headlight failing to come on was my first clue my stator went bad. As for the R/R, the only way to test it is to do what you have already done. If you are not getting proper voltage, replace it. Period.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 03:23 AM
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X2^ very good advice and the mosfet R/R is really worth the extra money,for peace of mind and i feel . a cooler running and therefore longer lasting stator

If you see it on my bike I did it
92 vn750(sold)
Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot

"When all is said and done,usually more is said than done" UNK
Click on one x and drag to the other to read between them.

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XI waited patiently for the Lord; and he turned unto me, and heard my cry. X
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