Bad Stator & Rectifier? - How Common? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-28-2011, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Bad Stator & Rectifier? - How Common?

I just purchased a 99 750 with only 11K miles on it. Just started going thro it and based on my multimeter readings the stator & r/r are both bad. I got stator cont readings at ground & individual wires. That indicates a short. Strange thing is that this is the 2nd stator in the bike. There are 2 sets of wires coming from the engine.

I proceded to the r/r and performed the tests in the factory manual. I had 2 legs fail on several of the tests. The r/r appeared to be the original one.

How common is it for both of these to fail?

I have a new AGM gel battery ordered, but I need to fix the r/r & the stator also. I have read the stator replacement w/o engine removal.

Where/what replacement parts do you guys use for the r/r & the stator? I am familiar with Ricks & a couple of other aftermarket suppliers. [SIZE="2"]Are there any other bikes we can use the stator from?[/SIZE] I have done the cross reference & found some bikes that use the same r/r.

Thanks for the help. Dean
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-28-2011, 09:23 PM
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The Tim Parrott Enterprises rebuilt stator is what you want:

Rick`s reputation for electronics parts is going down due to so much Chinese junk coming in now.

If I were replacing my reg/rec, it would be with a Shindegen/mosfet style as outlined in these threads.
There are several other links in these threads with more info.


1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


Last edited by OlHossCanada; 06-28-2011 at 09:26 PM.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-28-2011, 10:05 PM
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I have a 2005 and my stator failed around 19k miles. There should be continuity between the stator wires, I would say 1-3 ohms. However if the wires are shorted to ground thats a bad thing. I decided to replace my R/R just on the chance it could of contributed to the stator failing. Some of the wires on my stator were burned in half. Something had to cause that and the R/R is what it plugs into. I followed the advice of members on here and went with Tim Parrot for my stator ($85.00), Also went with The Mosfet. And thanks Olhoss for the Mosfet refererance. I pulled my engine though did not choose the sidecover modification. I havent read alot about the do it yourself mod but I think the tolerances are to close for me to use a dremil tool on it. The two sets of wires coming out of the left side cover are for stator (3 yellow wires)and the pick-up coils, one for each cylinder. Good luck and keep us posted.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-28-2011, 11:54 PM
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it is very common for both the R/R and stator to go.. in fact it is recommended to replace the r/r after stator failure. and it is common for the aftermarket stators to fail faster than an oem stator. as Oll Hoss suggested, get the TPE stator and shindegen R/R... might even ask tim to wind your stator for a little bit more amps.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-29-2011, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by slimvulcanrider View Post
as Oll Hoss suggested, get the TPE stator and shindegen R/R... might even ask tim to wind your stator for a little bit more amps.
As HOSS and Slim said PTE is the way to go. Just got mine back from him 2 weeks ago and it is definitely a top notch job. Wand totally full of wire. I learned the hard way and bought the Ricks and it lasted 400 miles before it melted the wiring due to small, poorly insulated wire. Here is a picture of it. Never mind the dust on it. That's from the stator cover mod job.

Last edited by Chuck A.; 06-29-2011 at 12:28 AM.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-29-2011, 12:32 AM
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Tim advertises on ebay and his TIM PARROTT site. His personal site is $4 cheap than the ebay store.
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