Stator and R/R Test Results are in!!! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Stator and R/R Test Results are in!!!

Finally got a chance to run my tests that everyone here has so graciously provided me. I will start with the stator results

Steps taken
1) disconnected the yellow wires at the stator end. Had continuity among all combinations.
2) Tested ohms to ground for each of the yellow wire. All returned open/infinity/1 on my digital multimeter.
3) Ohm out all combinations of the 3 yellow wires. I labeled the wires A, B and C. All combinations received .9 (AB, AB, BC, BA, CA, CB)
4) Switched multimeter to 200 VAC. After making sure none of the wires were touching each other or the bike, I cranked it up and let it run for a minute. At idle I received 9.5 on all three stator wires with the positive lead from the multimeter going to the wire and the negative grounded at the battery. I tried to do the test of checking the voltage at each wire with the bike revved to 4-5k, but not sure I got the correct reading, as the number went down to about 5. Is this a necessary test to check the voltage at 4-5k RPM's?

That was all the testing scenarios I ran


R/R Testing
Tried to find the posting where someone (I think it was Ole Hoss) told me what the readings should be, but was curious on some of the measurements because the Clymer manual had different readings. For example, the measurement from terminal M (+) to B (-) in the manual says I should have open/infinity/1 on a digital multimeter, but the results I was given by someone else said I should have >10k ohms. Either way, here are the results of my tests. I am using the same lettering as in the Clymer manual on page 295

B-M/G/A1-3 (measured using 200 Ohms) all came back open/infinity/1 on a digital multimeter

M to * (measured using 3 different ohms settings, 200, 2000 and 20k) all 3 tests returned open/infinity/1 on a digital multimeter.

G to * (measured using 2000 ohms)
G-B 936
G-M 738
G-A1 435
G-A2 433
G-A3 434


I think that covers all the tests I was told to run. Being as obsessive compulsive as I am, I ran and reran each of the tests to be sure of the readings...

Please someone provide me with some feedback!!! I'll owe you lunch if I'm ever close to where you live!!!

Thank you in advance,
Steven

2003 VN750 de-goated
Kuryakyn ISO Grips
Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
coastered
R/R relocated
Slipstreamer Hellfire windshield
Shindengen Mosfet R/R
Kawasaki Engine Guard
Fire & Steel Footpegs
Need Knifemaker to make me a seat like his

Hickory, NC
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post #2 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 10:13 PM
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The stator AC voltage test was done wrong........... you need to check the AC voltage between pairs of yellow wires...... not yellow wire to battery. Do the stator voltage test again testing between all three pairs of yellow wires...............
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post #3 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dariv View Post
The stator AC voltage test was done wrong........... you need to check the AC voltage between pairs of yellow wires...... not yellow wire to battery. Do the stator voltage test again testing between all three pairs of yellow wires...............
Really? I guess I just assumed that checking voltage I needed to run the positive to the yellow wire and the negative to ground.... Bad, bad bad assumption on my part...

What do you think about the other results?

And thank you for your help!!!

2003 VN750 de-goated
Kuryakyn ISO Grips
Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
coastered
R/R relocated
Slipstreamer Hellfire windshield
Shindengen Mosfet R/R
Kawasaki Engine Guard
Fire & Steel Footpegs
Need Knifemaker to make me a seat like his

Hickory, NC
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post #4 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 08:19 AM
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From the tests you ran so far it looks like your stator and R/R are probably OK. A couple of comments.

Stator resistance test: Check the resistance of your meter leads by shorting them together and then subtracting that resistance from your stator measusrement. Your meter leads probably have 0.5 - 1 ohm resistance. I suggest you also plug the 3 bullet connectors back in and check the resistance from the R/R connector. This will confirm that all the connections and wiring are OK between the stator and the R/R.

Stator / Alternator voltage test: This test is not specified in the Factory Service Manual (FSM) nor in Clymers. It has been described on this forum that you should expect between 50 and 70 Volts AC. As dariv said this should be measured between each of the 3 yellow stator wires. The alternator output (both frequency and magnitude) will vary with engine speed. This test IS specified in my Concours 14 FSM (which has a similar charging system design) as 56 VAC or more at 4,000 rpm. If the output voltage is much higher then the R/R is damaged. If the voltage is much lower than the alternator is defective. The Concours FSM also notes that if the stator coils have normal resistance, but the output voltage is low then the rotor magnets have probably weakened and the rotor must be replaced.

R/R test: Note that the resistance values in the table between the terminals are dependent on the meter probe polarity. For example M(-) to G(+) = 10k ohm ~ infinity; G(-) to M(+) = 1k ohm ~ 5k ohm

- Safety First

Paul

'04 VN750
'75 CB360T
'08 Concours 14
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post #5 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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From the R/R tests it appeared that it was definitely bad. Am I wrong? I will rerun the VAC test on my stator wires sometime today. In this test how important is it to rev to 4-5k rpm to test voltage there as well?

2003 VN750 de-goated
Kuryakyn ISO Grips
Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
coastered
R/R relocated
Slipstreamer Hellfire windshield
Shindengen Mosfet R/R
Kawasaki Engine Guard
Fire & Steel Footpegs
Need Knifemaker to make me a seat like his

Hickory, NC
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post #6 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carolesteven View Post
From the R/R tests it appeared that it was definitely bad. Am I wrong? I will rerun the VAC test on my stator wires sometime today. In this test how important is it to rev to 4-5k rpm to test voltage there as well?
This stator does not charge the battery at idle speed of 1100 rpm, so you need to get engine speed up to 4-5K rpm to get an accurate indication of it`s charging capacity.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html
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post #7 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 01:02 PM
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The manual says to use the meter on the 100 ohm range (200 ohm range is OK if that is what your meter has). Assuming that you had the meter (-) lead connected to the first terminal listed in your results here is how I interpret your results:

"B-M/G/A1-3 (measured using 200 Ohms) all came back open/infinity/1 on a digital multimeter" - OK

"M to * (measured using 3 different ohms settings, 200, 2000 and 20k) all 3 tests returned open/infinity/1 on a digital multimeter." - SPEC IS 10 kohm~infinity - OK

G to * (measured using 2000 ohms) - SHOULD BE ON 100 OHM SCALE

G-B 936 - SPEC IS 0.4 KOHM ~ 2 KOHM - OK

G-M 738 - SPEC IS 1 KOHM ~ 5 KOHM - (a little low, but you were on the 2000 ohm scale)

G-A1 435- SPEC IS 0.2 KOHM ~ 0.6 KOHM - OK

G-A2 433- SPEC IS 0.2 KOHM ~ 0.6 KOHM - OK

G-A3 434- SPEC IS 0.2 KOHM ~ 0.6 KOHM - OK

So I wouldn't conclude yet that your R/R is definitely bad.

You should then reverse the meter leads and repeat the measurements and compare to the table values.

Yes, it is important that you rev the engine to 4-5000 rpm for the alternator voltage measurement. Both the output voltage waveform and meter measurement may be unreliable at idle.

- Safety First

Paul

'04 VN750
'75 CB360T
'08 Concours 14
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post #8 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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No, the first letter in my tests represents the positive lead.

2003 VN750 de-goated
Kuryakyn ISO Grips
Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
coastered
R/R relocated
Slipstreamer Hellfire windshield
Shindengen Mosfet R/R
Kawasaki Engine Guard
Fire & Steel Footpegs
Need Knifemaker to make me a seat like his

Hickory, NC
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post #9 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlHossCanada View Post
This stator does not charge the battery at idle speed of 1100 rpm, so you need to get engine speed up to 4-5K rpm to get an accurate indication of it`s charging capacity.
Thanks Gordon. What do you think about my R/R test? Does that test seem like the R/R is bad?

2003 VN750 de-goated
Kuryakyn ISO Grips
Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
coastered
R/R relocated
Slipstreamer Hellfire windshield
Shindengen Mosfet R/R
Kawasaki Engine Guard
Fire & Steel Footpegs
Need Knifemaker to make me a seat like his

Hickory, NC
carolesteven is offline  
post #10 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carolesteven View Post
Thanks Gordon. What do you think about my R/R test? Does that test seem like the R/R is bad?
I`ll defer to sunpa and his analysis on this question.
Follow his directions and retest with the polarity of the leads reversed.
Post those results and see what you have.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9127
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