Ignition coil question - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2011, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Ignition coil question

O.K. gang, can you help me with this? I'm having performance issues. Specifically under load engine goes flat and starts to misfire at 3500 rpm. I've rebuilt the carbs (this made improvement at lower rpm accel) but had no effect on the upper rpm concern.

Inspecting the ignition system (have the primary relay mod) I found a corroded wire and terminal in the rear coil.

Now for the question: is there a better coil avail aftermarket or should I stay factory? Another note, I have Nology wires.
Thanks in advance for the input
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 09:46 AM
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Might be something simpler - have you checked the carb vent hose that goes to the right ear? If it's facing forward and not shielded from the wind (i.e., it's not tucked into the ear), you'll get the effect you're describing.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 10:21 AM
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to add what crobins said, if the hose is not tucked into the ear, make sure you dont bottom it out when reinstalling it and covering the end. I have seen on here where people cut the hose end at a 45deg to prevent this
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 10:33 AM
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Now for the question: is there a better coil avail aftermarket or should I stay factory? Another note, I have Nology wires.
Thanks in advance for the input
My plan was to go with the Accel Super Coil kit when the time comes. I've used their gear on my other bikes in the past and was quite pleased with the performance. Who knows if their "really" better, but I never had another ignition problem in the subsequent 15k miles I put on her.

This is the one for the VN750:

http://www.amazon.com/ACCEL-140403-U.../dp/B001OMKFKS

'98 VN750, Mustang Seat, F&S Engine Guards, Highway pegs, Pro-Tac backrest, Harley 58121-85B windshield lowers, Autometer 3391 voltmeter, ACCT to MCCT, pickup coils at 0.020", Coasters, National Cycle N2220, Vista Cruise Universal, Single Filter Ear Shave, Givi Monokey Sidebag Mounts, Givi E21 side bags, Knifemaker style turn signal relocation, helmet locks relocated.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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I understand where you guys are going with the vent hose. What I have found is that the '85 & '86 don't have the hose, only the tee. To that end I have installed a hose, drilled a hole in the right ear (inside the filter area) and installed per forum recommendations. I also added inline fuel filters.
I am asking specifically about the coil because of the corroded terminal I found. Is there a better or less expensive alternative to factory?
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 11:45 AM
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You didnt have to drill a hole, there is a spot for it, at least on my 2005. Dont know enough about the coils but the corrosion could be on the inside as well, depending how bad it is. I know getting stuff from the dealer can be to darn $$$$$.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modtop View Post
I understand where you guys are going with the vent hose. What I have found is that the '85 & '86 don't have the hose, only the tee. To that end I have installed a hose, drilled a hole in the right ear (inside the filter area) and installed per forum recommendations. I also added inline fuel filters.
I am asking specifically about the coil because of the corroded terminal I found. Is there a better or less expensive alternative to factory?
I would plug that hole that you drilled and connect the hose into the ear where it was designed to go. The difference in the air pressure in the air filter may cause the carb to run bad.

02 honda sabre 1100
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 01:33 PM
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I would plug that hole that you drilled and connect the hose into the ear where it was designed to go. The difference in the air pressure in the air filter may cause the carb to run bad.
x2; suction from the carb inlet will cause a vacuum in the float chambers. The ear on the '85 and '86 is the same as the later models; there's a slotted hole at the bottom and top of the rear of the air filter housing; that's where the hose goes.

The early models _did_ have the hose; if it ain't there, someone removed it. The difference was the open leg of the tee faced to the rear, and the hose off that end was hooked to the nipple on the fuel gauge cover under the tank. Most owners have redone that so it routes like the later models, to the right ear, provided they haven't done the earshave.

Jim

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 02:22 PM
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Is there a better or less expensive alternative to factory?
Well which would it be? Better or less expensive? Better I would think would be the accel's you're looking at. Cheeper I would say, used coils of ebay.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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I want to thank everyone for the input. I will investigate the accel coil set. as for the fuel vent line; well, first off, the bike ran great last year with the vent ending at the tee above the carbs. as for the hole in the ears, there is none. I even removed the right ear and check it. the only hole in the ears back is the large square for air intake. As for hose placement any hole inside the air cleaner would be negative pressure that would act as vacuum in the bowls.

I'll post back when I get new coils on the bike
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