Melted yellow wires - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-05-2011, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Melted yellow wires

I sold my bike today. The new owner was riding it home and the engine died. I refunded his money, got the bike flat bedded home and found 3 yellow wires on the left side of the bike cooked at the bullet connectors. There were also some flattened spots on 2 of the wires that had shorted together. They are behind the left side cover.
Are these stator wires?
If I repair the wiring at that spot, will the bike again be good to go?
Could the stator be fried because of this? Or did the stator cause the wire melt?
How about the R/R, or any other electrical device?
What gauge wire do I need?
Can anybody give me a link to a way to test both the stator and R/R?

Thanks in advance. I am no electrical guru!!

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-06-2011, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I repaired the wiring with crimp on bullet connectors. Reconnected the battery. Tried to start it. No go. Too weak. So it is currently on the battery tender to recharge. Once I get it to start, (fingers crossed) how do I go about testing the stator? I have an analog VOM I can use. Also, is there a simple check for the R/R? Anything else I should check?

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-06-2011, 01:04 PM
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I feel glad that I can answer a question, but only because I was asking a similiar question last week. To test the stator you can crank up the bike, then rev to around 3-4k rpm. Your headlights should increase and decrease in brightness. You could also check your batter with a MM for around 12.5 fully charged with no load. Then crank it up, rev to around 3k and test voltage. Have heard varying ranges on what you should be seeing, but if I remember it should be around 13.5 - 14.5

2003 VN750 de-goated
Kuryakyn ISO Grips
Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
coastered
R/R relocated
Slipstreamer Hellfire windshield
Shindengen Mosfet R/R
Kawasaki Engine Guard
Fire & Steel Footpegs
Need Knifemaker to make me a seat like his

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-06-2011, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carolesteven View Post
I feel glad that I can answer a question, but only because I was asking a similiar question last week. To test the stator you can crank up the bike, then rev to around 3-4k rpm. Your headlights should increase and decrease in brightness. You could also check your batter with a MM for around 12.5 fully charged with no load. Then crank it up, rev to around 3k and test voltage. Have heard varying ranges on what you should be seeing, but if I remember it should be around 13.5 - 14.5
Where do I test for these readings? At the battery terminals?
The headlight does brighten with higher revs. So I guess that's a good sign?
Any way to know if the R/R is still good? Or would the bike not start/run if it was bad?

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-06-2011, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flap1 View Post
Where do I test for these readings? At the battery terminals?
The headlight does brighten with higher revs. So I guess that's a good sign?
Any way to know if the R/R is still good? Or would the bike not start/run if it was bad?
Yeah, check at the battery terminals. There are threads on checking the R/R
on here. Have you relocated your R/R, or is it still under the battery box?

2003 VN750 de-goated
Kuryakyn ISO Grips
Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
coastered
R/R relocated
Slipstreamer Hellfire windshield
Shindengen Mosfet R/R
Kawasaki Engine Guard
Fire & Steel Footpegs
Need Knifemaker to make me a seat like his

Hickory, NC
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-06-2011, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Still under the battery box. If I continue to try to sell it, that's where it will stay. If I keep it I'll probably relocate it.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-06-2011, 02:34 PM
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here is the test write up.. its in the Verses.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1146
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-06-2011, 05:02 PM
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What i would do before i try to start the bike again is check the continuity of the stator and associated wiring, I would do this at the R/R connector so it also checks condition of the wires inside the harness. So disconnect the R/R connector, the stator bullet connectors and the 10 pin connector on the Junction box since one of the stator leads is spliced and goes to that for the operation of the headlight relay. Now were going to check continuity between the 3 yellow wires at the R/R connector, there should not be any continuity between them. Also check each wire to ground, again there should not be any continuity to ground. Then at the bullet connectors (stator side) check continuity between each of the yellow wires, the reading should be near .5 to 2 ohms. Then check each of the wires to ground, they should read an open If these reading are bad I would say the Stator is defective. Now connect back up the bullet connectors and do your stator readings again from the R/R connector they should be the same as the readings when you checked them from the bullet connectors. If everything reads good hook everything back up and check the voltage at the battery with the bike running, reading should be battery voltage at idle and when up on the RPM the voltage should increase to near 14 VDC if higher then 15VDC you probably have a bad R/R. Question what are the color of the wires damaged behind the left cover? Solid yellow wires are stator wires.

Last edited by ifixf18s; 06-06-2011 at 05:08 PM.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-07-2011, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ifixf18s View Post
If everything reads good hook everything back up and check the voltage at the battery with the bike running, reading should be battery voltage at idle and when up on the RPM the voltage should increase to near 14 VDC if higher then 15VDC you probably have a bad R/R. Question what are the color of the wires damaged behind the left cover? Solid yellow wires are stator wires.
All 3 solid yellow wires were blackened/melted at the bullet connectors and one other spot. It looked like they were pinched together behind the side cover. I replaced the bullet connectors and recharged the battery. Checked for any shorts and found none. Checked battery voltage - 12.5v. Fired it up and I get 13.5 - 14v with RPM between 3k and 5k, and just over 13v at 1100 rpm idle.
Everything sound like it's ready to go?

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ifixf18s View Post
What i would do before i try to start the bike again is check the continuity of the stator and associated wiring, I would do this at the R/R connector so it also checks condition of the wires inside the harness. So disconnect the R/R connector, the stator bullet connectors and the 10 pin connector on the Junction box since one of the stator leads is spliced and goes to that for the operation of the headlight relay. Now were going to check continuity between the 3 yellow wires at the R/R connector, there should not be any continuity between them. Also check each wire to ground, again there should not be any continuity to ground. Then at the bullet connectors (stator side) check continuity between each of the yellow wires, the reading should be near .5 to 2 ohms. Then check each of the wires to ground, they should read an open If these reading are bad I would say the Stator is defective. Now connect back up the bullet connectors and do your stator readings again from the R/R connector they should be the same as the readings when you checked them from the bullet connectors. If everything reads good hook everything back up and check the voltage at the battery with the bike running, reading should be battery voltage at idle and when up on the RPM the voltage should increase to near 14 VDC if higher then 15VDC you probably have a bad R/R. Question what are the color of the wires damaged behind the left cover? Solid yellow wires are stator wires.
Basic questions, but when you say check continuity would that be with the multimeter in the diode position or the Ohms position? Also what would my multimeter display when a circuit is open?

2003 VN750 de-goated
Kuryakyn ISO Grips
Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
coastered
R/R relocated
Slipstreamer Hellfire windshield
Shindengen Mosfet R/R
Kawasaki Engine Guard
Fire & Steel Footpegs
Need Knifemaker to make me a seat like his

Hickory, NC
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