Stator Wires look melted. What should I do? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Stator Wires look melted. What should I do?

I'm new to this forum, and the Vulcan is basically my first motorcycle, so bear with me. Maybe you guys can help me.

The 1986 VN750 has eaten 2 batteries in 1 season and has left me stranded once, in my ignorance, I jumped the bike using a car to get it going, don't know if I did perm. damage.

Anyways, I replaced the battery with an AGM that puts out 210 CCA and replaced the R/R (did not relocate it however, just installed it under the box. Removing the battery box was a learning experience for me so you can get an idea about much of a novice I am).

After the R/R replacement I thought my problems with charging would be solved but I am still getting readings of:
12 to 12.5 at idle
13 to 13.5 when revving

I have a second (older, analog) Multimeter and it reads 13 at idle and almost 14 when revving. And no I don't know the RPMS because the tach is broken.

These are the same readings I was getting with the old regulator.

Anyways I've been using this forum and was able to locate the stator wires which look melted at the bullet style connection points. I attached some pics. I could probably use a soldering iron but it looks like accessing the wires would not be ideal. What kind of wire should I use?
[IMG] pic1[/IMG]

[IMG] pic 2[/IMG]
What do you guys recommend I do?

Last edited by andrewgiambrone; 06-02-2011 at 06:31 PM.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 06:59 PM
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I soldered GXL wire directly from the stator to the R/R. Also, if you still have the GB, do yourself a favor and relocate the R/R.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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What gauge GXL wire? Looks like 16 or 18.

So you just cut the wire before the connector and then reattached it to the R/R? DId you solder then tape or solder then heat shrink?

Do you think these wires could be affecting my charging system performance? I can't disconnect them to test them with my multimeter. They are melted together.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 07:21 PM
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I used 14 AWG GXL wire; soldered and shrink wrapped. I actually cut mine back farther than the bullets..... Considering that the juice for the charging system comes from these three wires, it could be a problem....and if they are melted.....well, yeah.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to try this tomorrow. I will post my results.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 10:14 PM
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They don't look melted to me, but the pics aren't that good. Usually, when they burn, the insulation is cooked and I don't see that. Try disconnecting, spray with plastic safe electric contact cleaner, let dry, apply dielectric grease to contacts and reconnect. Then check voltage again.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
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1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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I wasn't able to disconnect them with even moderate force.

I successfully soldered the connections, but I want to wire directly into the R/R and not use the old wires taped in a bunch with lots of other wiring.

I think the only way to do this is to carefully cut away the wires from the main taped bunch and follow them that way. Is there a way to know which is which? Are they all the same (IE it doesn't matter which spot you put them into?)
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 12:45 PM
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Not sure what you are asking.... if you mean the yellow wires, then yes any of them can be interchanged at the the R/R
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I mean the yellow wires. I messed around with the r/r connector and wasn't able to remove the connectors without really forcing them out. I reconnected it using the old wires but left a small amount of slack so that I can later buy a new connector and wire it directly to the R/R connector (without using the old wires--interestingly the yellow wires BEFORE the bullet connector are 14 gauge and the wires after it are 16 gauge.)

Anways my results weren't much different:
idle 12.5v to 12.8v
healthy revving of the engine: 13v to 13.5v

BTW my ancient analog multimeter reads 14v when revving and 13 at idle.

They are basically the same as before but I noticed they are more consistent (IE when I revv they go up immediately and consistently, whereas before revving would sometimes not affect the reading)

I don't know if this is enough but we will see if this new battery dies like the last two. Then I will have to make a hard choice as to whether to replace the stator.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 01:47 PM
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Lots of good previous advice here.
Try using some pliers to pull the bullet connectors apart. They look more corroded than welded. I think while I was cleaning the contacts of the bullet connectors I would do a stator test procedure.
(I see you have already soldered the wires ... never mind)
Do a "stator test" search in this forum, read up on it, and check the condition of your stator before considering a replacement.
The connectors and terminals of the R/R could probably use a good cleaning too. Re-assemble all connectors, packing them with dielectric grease.
I would do these things maticulously before considering further component replacements.

Good luck ...

~~C8> Ratt
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Done: Coastered, .020 ign., Iridiums, VM, Plexistar II, MCCT's
Next: LED's
Will Do: MOSFET, Horns, Shave(maybe)

Last edited by ZCraggRatt; 06-03-2011 at 01:49 PM.
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