Pickup coil clearance pics - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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Pickup coil clearance pics

Clearancing the pickup coils has been a commonly referred to modification that seemed to be lacking some pics, so I took a few while I was doing the job this weekend...



In expectation of dribbling oil when the cover cam off, I put a piece of foil around the bike to prevent leaks onto undesired places. (VERY little oil actually leaked out...)




Next is to remove the three screws holding the cover on. On my bike, these screws were tight (!) and I used a phillips bit in a 1/4 drive socket to break them free. The cover was also a bit glued in place and I had to rap the cover with the handle of a screwdriver repeatedly to break it free and wiggle it off. Here is the cover showing the three screws, the cover, and their respective oring seals:





With the cover removed, you can now access the two pickup coils held on by two phillips screws each:





Instead of knocking off the inner most nub that locates the pickup coil, I decided to clearance the coil bracket hole and inner most edge with a burr bit in my cordless dremel to allow a tighter clearance. In this pic, the upper coil had been modified, but the lower hasn't:





Here's a diagram of modifications made to the coil bracket courtesy of my drarwing skills and MS Paint. The upper hole represents the modification, and the lower hole is unmodified:





This is a close-up shot of the modified bracket. Notice the little space between the bracket and outer locating nub:





I set both coils to 0.020" as described in the text write-up and the difference was certainly worth the effort.

Reassembly is opposite of removal. Hopes this helps visualize everything. Total time involved was less than an hour...



Cheers,
DenverDiesel and lugnut1009 like this.

'98 VN750, Mustang Seat, F&S Engine Guards, Highway pegs, Pro-Tac backrest, Harley 58121-85B windshield lowers, Autometer 3391 voltmeter, ACCT to MCCT, pickup coils at 0.020", Coasters, National Cycle N2220, Vista Cruise Universal, Single Filter Ear Shave, Givi Monokey Sidebag Mounts, Givi E21 side bags, Knifemaker style turn signal relocation, helmet locks relocated.

Last edited by abyssdncr; 07-30-2017 at 11:21 PM. Reason: Updated pic links
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post #2 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 12:37 AM
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Nice write up, not something I was planning to do but it looks fairly easy. Maybe on a rainy day. What was the big difference that you got out of this?

"Show me a man who makes no mistakes, and I'll show you a man who doesn't do things." Theodore Roosevelt."

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Current projects - 1986 VN750 & 1988 EL250
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post #3 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 04:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shark88 View Post
Nice write up, not something I was planning to do but it looks fairly easy. Maybe on a rainy day. What was the big difference that you got out of this?
I got better starts and improved acceleration out of mine. I set mine at .018 ,you will feel the difference,especially if you have earshaved ,rejetted and changed the exhaust.

As best I can tell, it advances the timing a little due to the fact the coils enter the magnetic field a little sooner ,by virtue of being closer to the rotor and stays in it a little longer as well,about the same as changing your point gap and dwell on older points type distributors.




If you see it on my bike I did it
VROC#30324
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post #4 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 07:49 AM
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Nice pictures. It definitely cleared things up for me since that is next on my mod list.

1986 Black Kawasaki Vulcan VN750 "Black KAWK"
VN750 #9300 & VROC #33453

EMGO Handlebar, V&H Exhaust, Drop Shocks, Raised/Painted Fork, MeanStreak Seat, Tank Bib, ME880 Oversize Tires, Engine Guard, Custom Mirrors, Chris Products Turn Signals, Ear Shave, 150/42 Jets, PINGEL Fuel Valve, MCCT, Volt Meter, Shendegen R/R, AGM Battery, Coastered, .020 Coils, Relo Gauges & Headlamp, SilverStar Ultra, LED Flashing Brake Light, Center Stand Delete, WOLO Airhorn.
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post #5 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 08:33 AM
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post #6 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 10:32 AM
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Thanks

Cudoes to you for total clarification on this. Pictures are worth thousands of words esp to guys like me. Like they say in Missouri "seeing is believing".

The Admiral

2000vn750
16000 miles and counting

Items done:
Plugs beaded/gapped at .032
Marbled
Carbs at 3.5 turns
Seafoam tank and crank
Rotella Syn 5W-40
Spline lube
Ovsz Shinko230's
Grambo - cam chains
Pickups gapped at .020
R/R relocate
Sealed Battery

To Do:
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Acct to Mcct Conv
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post #7 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 10:53 AM
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Nice Job abyssdncr. I like your solution. The tabs on the casting is left in place and unmolested. No worries about contamination because the pickups can be pulled away from the open areas for filing mods.
Smart and easy ... I like it.

P.S. - When I did this mod, a chainsaw file worked quite well to elongate the holes of the soft metal.

~~C8> Ratt
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Done: Coastered, .020 ign., Iridiums, VM, Plexistar II, MCCT's
Next: LED's
Will Do: MOSFET, Horns, Shave(maybe)

Last edited by ZCraggRatt; 06-01-2011 at 04:52 PM. Reason: P.S.
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post #8 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 04:19 PM
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Nice job...

For clarity, you drilled the holes so they are oblong, cut a notch (to avoid nub) and then moved the coils slightly to the right (as you look at it) reducing the gap? Is that right? You do this for both coils?
What is/was the factory gap size?
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post #9 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VoIP Doc View Post
Nice job...

For clarity, you drilled the holes so they are oblong, cut a notch (to avoid nub) and then moved the coils slightly to the right (as you look at it) reducing the gap? Is that right? You do this for both coils?
What is/was the factory gap size?
Yep, yep, & yep - you got it.

Factory clearance was over 0.030", but under 0.035" - no feeler guages in my bundle for the tweener sizes.

You're on a bit of a short leash with the dremel due to the wire pigtails, which is why the little cordless was nice as you can easily manipulate it like a pencil.

'98 VN750, Mustang Seat, F&S Engine Guards, Highway pegs, Pro-Tac backrest, Harley 58121-85B windshield lowers, Autometer 3391 voltmeter, ACCT to MCCT, pickup coils at 0.020", Coasters, National Cycle N2220, Vista Cruise Universal, Single Filter Ear Shave, Givi Monokey Sidebag Mounts, Givi E21 side bags, Knifemaker style turn signal relocation, helmet locks relocated.
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post #10 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 04:55 PM
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Can you use an ordinary steel feeler gauge to set the gap?
Or do you need a non ferous brass one to use by the magnet in the rotor?

Thanks for the pics. I have read the directions several times, and even read the option for filing the bracket instead of chiseling the nub off. But without looking inside had never quite visualized where the nub was. It is all very much clearer now.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html
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