Bike only starts when handlebars are at angle ... - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Bike only starts when handlebars are at angle ...

I've noticed that I can only get the bike to start SOMETIMES, when the handlebars are turned to the left. Where do I even start with a problem like this? Is there a guide to a total electrical rebuild?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 01:25 PM
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I`m no expert, but my guess is that you have a loose connection in the wiring harness near the steering head or the ignition switch. Broken solder joints on the switch have been reported in situations like this. Sorry I can`t offer any more specific help. I`m sure someone else will though.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

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Relocated R/R
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F&S luggage rack and engine guard
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July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 01:30 PM
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Unhappy only starts when handlebars are at angle ...

I would suggest defiantly problem in wiring harness requiring repair/rebuild or replacement. My High Beam goes out on slight turns to the right. Good Luck
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlHossCanada View Post
I`m no expert, but my guess is that you have a loose connection in the wiring harness near the steering head or the ignition switch. Broken solder joints on the switch have been reported in situations like this. Sorry I can`t offer any more specific help. I`m sure someone else will though.
Solder joints? At this point in time I'm totally ignorant to the electrical system. I clearly have some reading to do. Where is the ignition switch and what should it look like normally? Can anyone steer me to an old post about this?
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 04:46 PM
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I had a similar problem. Bike would start up but it would die when I turned the bars to the right. I replaced my whole wiring diagram (not hard to do) and the problem went away.

Cleaning the contacts on the ignition switch's "hockey puck" would be a good thing to do as well just in case it's the switch itself, which has been mentioned here before that could cause something like this too.

To find the hockey puck just look at the switch, where you put in the key to start the bike... then look under it and you'll see the switch's cylinder and beneath it, a plastic thing that looks like a hockey puck. That's what you have to take off, take apart and clean. Be careful though, cause there are small springs in there that you don't want to lose! First time I pulled it off it opened accidentally and I had to spend a half hour looking for the small springs and ball bearings.

So you take the hockey puck off carefully so it doesn't crack open, take it inside and onto a desk or maybe even try to open it over a big bowl in case things to pop out. When it's open you'll see some copper contacts, clean them until they're shiny again and then take the small springs and stretch them out a bit and then reassemble it and put it back on the bike.

If that doesn't work, you can either try to trace the cable that's giving you the problem or change out the wiring. I found my wire harness for like $12 on ebay.

Hope this helps out a bit.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Ceal View Post
I had a similar problem. Bike would start up but it would die when I turned the bars to the right.
I've got this very problem right now. Best I can tell is that the wire bundle going to the ignition switch occasionally droops too low and catches on the protrusion on the neck that the ignition lock engages to keep the steering locked.

Just a theory right now, but watching bundles when I turn the bars far right, it seems to be the culprit. Trying to address this is on tonight's agenda...

'98 VN750, Mustang Seat, F&S Engine Guards, Highway pegs, Pro-Tac backrest, Harley 58121-85B windshield lowers, Autometer 3391 voltmeter, ACCT to MCCT, pickup coils at 0.020", Coasters, National Cycle N2220, Vista Cruise Universal, Single Filter Ear Shave, Givi Monokey Sidebag Mounts, Givi E21 side bags, Knifemaker style turn signal relocation, helmet locks relocated.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vulcanpower View Post
Solder joints? At this point in time I'm totally ignorant to the electrical system. I clearly have some reading to do. Where is the ignition switch and what should it look like normally? Can anyone steer me to an old post about this?
Here are some pictures in the gallery:
https://www.vn750.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=624

4 more pictures (Ignition Switch #1-4) of an opened up switch and the solder joints and contacts:
https://www.vn750.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=505

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9127
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceal View Post

To find the hockey puck just look at the switch, where you put in the key to start the bike... then look under it and you'll see the switch's cylinder and beneath it, a plastic thing that looks like a hockey puck. That's what you have to take off, take apart and clean.

So you take the hockey puck off carefully so it doesn't crack open, take it inside and onto a desk or maybe even try to open it over a big bowl in case things to pop out. When it's open you'll see some copper contacts, clean them until they're shiny again and then take the small springs and stretch them out a bit and then reassemble it and put it back on the bike.
See the hockey puck, but how do you actually get it off of the bike? What other junk needs to come off first?

Thanks,


EDIT: OK, so I looked at the pics in the first link Hoss posted, and it looks like you need to remove the two side bolts holding the guage cluster on, lift it off the guages and two bolts to remove the switch?

'98 VN750, Mustang Seat, F&S Engine Guards, Highway pegs, Pro-Tac backrest, Harley 58121-85B windshield lowers, Autometer 3391 voltmeter, ACCT to MCCT, pickup coils at 0.020", Coasters, National Cycle N2220, Vista Cruise Universal, Single Filter Ear Shave, Givi Monokey Sidebag Mounts, Givi E21 side bags, Knifemaker style turn signal relocation, helmet locks relocated.

Last edited by abyssdncr; 05-23-2011 at 10:48 PM. Reason: Redirect, your honor...
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 10:44 PM
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Just the headlight. After that, it's just a matter of taking out the appropriate fasteners, having it in a position that doesn't lock the forks, and fidgeting with it.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 11:22 PM
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I removed the hockey puck without removing anything else I think... at the most you just have to take off the screws holding the switch itself just to let you turn it or something, but you don't have to take out the switch.
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