Voltage Low - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Voltage Low

Hey guys having a small problem.

I replaced the R/R with a Mosfet Shingden unit.

With the old rectifier I had 13.5 volts at RPM, but only 11 at idle. With the new I have 12.5V at all RPM over 1500, but never higher than 12.5.

I tested the stator using the instructions in the chilton manual and it passed all checks. continuity good, Ohms good, no shorts or opens. Is there some other test I can run on it?

Do you guys think I got a bad rectifier or do I need to replace the stator.

The voltage is definately lower when the engine gets really hot like in stop and go traffic.

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 03:38 PM
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Sounds like a bad R/R. If the stator checks out.......

You should be getting 13.2-14.8v throughout the rpm band.


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 04:36 PM
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You Can check the voltage coming from the stator, From what ive seen mentioned on this forum is it should be 50-70 Volts AC, Im thinking the way you could do this is to disconnect the stator wire from the bullet connectors, then read it, just like you do for resistance. If its good there you may want to read it again at the R/R connector to make sure its the same. Or just read it from the R/R connector first, i would unplug it though. Im curious what you find, im getting ready to buy a mosfet R/R, where did you get it from?

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Arrow Will check AC volts in AM


I will check the AC volts in the AM. Probably tap the back of the pins at the connector and take a reading there. Will post the volts so you can see what the reading is. As for the Mosfet kit I got it from Roadstercycle.com off e-bay. It came with a kit with connectors wiring and fuse. installed as instructed was easy, just haven't been thrilled with results.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Problem found faulty voltmeter

Hey guys problem found. I started rechecking everything today with a different meter and found the one I was using is way off. With bike off I get 12.5 and running I get 14.5. Dug out a third meter and confirmed the readings on the second.

If you are looking for an easy kit the one I installed came with everything I needed and the seller responded to my e-mail last night with a few items to check and send him the information. He was going to work with me to solve the problem.


Thanks for all the advice

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 09:52 PM
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R/r nightmares

Hello all,

Well, I was able to successfully swap out my stator with the method from TuxedoSeven, however I did bone out my first electrosport stator due to a mismount. I sent off to TPE for a rewind and also got a R/R from him too. Initially, I stuck with the electrosport R/R, but soon enough, I stared having die-off from dead batteries. I attempted to do a test on both R/R's from the service manual, and both of them tested completely differently. The TPE R/R only has five wires, and I wrote to TPE, and was told that this was o.k. So, I switched out to the TPE R/R and that wouldn't even make voltage in mid RPM's. The electrosport would stop making voltage after about 15 minutes, as it got warmer. Yes, they are mounted out on the frame. The question here is that when I would do an AC voltage test on the TPE rewound stator, at higher rpm's, I would get up to 90 volts of output. Is it possible that this higher voltage output is damaging the R/R, and if so, is there something I can put in line to reduce the voltage, such as a 'pre-resistor'. Under normal mid rpm's the stator would put out about 75 volts. Finally, I'd like your opinions on a good R/R. I'm sure the electrosport is correct, as it also had the correct plugs, but I hate the CA sales tax...ha ha!
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