stator and voltage regulator bad - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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stator and voltage regulator bad

Hey y'all. It's been a while!

I put my bike up early last year. I had some problems with the headlight flaking out once in a while, then often, then.... no headlight..... then the bike wasn't charging. CRAP!

Looking on here, it looks like the headlight is fired off one leg of the stator. That makes sense according to what happened to me, but I don't see it in the schematics. I'll assume that's correct.

The REAL problem: I checked the VR according to my Clymer manual. BAD.
I checked the stator, OPEN!? I pulled the cover off the side of the engine, it looks like the wiring totally melted down It's real bad man. The yellow wires burned to a crisp, and the copper wound on the stator burned open in places.

I can purchase a stator and VR.... I've been saving money for it a couple months now, but I sure don't want to pop my new parts. I can't figure out why they went out in the first place. I'm also assuming the new stator and VR will fix my headlight too.

Any suggestions what would cause a melt down? Any on how to make sure I don't smoke the new parts if I can't find a problem?

I'm also trying to find a way to replace the stator without pulling the motor, but I haven't found that yet.

This sucks man!!!

Last edited by spiral_72; 03-30-2011 at 10:33 PM.
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post #2 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, I had recently replaced the battery with a new sealed battery before the blowout.... Other than that, just been ridin' her. She's stock through and through.
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post #3 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiral_72 View Post
Oh, I had recently replaced the battery with a new sealed battery before the blowout.... Other than that, just been ridin' her. She's stock through and through.
just do a thorough inspection of your wiring to make sure you have no,shorts or grounded wiring,The stator and r/r are probably the weakest part of an otherwise great motorcycle so this is not an unusual situation.




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post #4 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 11:18 PM
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Welcome back spiral 72.

The no-engine-pull stator replacement engine case modification:
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16839

(If the bike is 15 years old or more, and you are getting any unusual engine vibration or rubber chunks on the oil drain screen when you drop the oil, your balancer dampers are deteriorating, and need to be replaced.
Might be wise to pull the engine for this service when you do the stator.)

This is the stator you want:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/motor...Q5fAccessories

Read this thread about the Shindegen r/r. After reading it and the links in the posts #3 and #6, I think it may be the answer to the problems we have had with Ma Kaw`s OEM unit.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17593

The scribed link describes this r/r running cooler and charging the system with 14.1 volts at idle. It is what I would buy now, based on the info here.

Our OEM r/r doesn`t start charging until about 2500 rpm.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html

Last edited by OlHossCanada; 03-31-2011 at 12:19 AM.
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post #5 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the information. I'll go through the bike a couple more times before I install the new parts.

I wish I'd have thought to ask y'all before I ordered. Hopefully what I got was ok.

stator:
http://www.bikebandit.com/rick-s-mot...=7594&t=1&td=1

regulator:
http://www.bikebandit.com/rick-s-mot...fier-regulator

I'm pretty sure my stator can't be rebuilt. It really is toast, as in melted, burned and in pieces. The link you give me mentions a MOSFET regulator. I wish I'd have known that was an option (again, I didn't ask ). Are they good enough to return the one I bought and pay the restocking fee??
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post #6 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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I'm seriously considering following your suggestion to pull the motor. Honestly I don't know how I'm gonna get it out, but I'll consult the Clymer manual for that too.
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post #7 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 06:15 PM
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Caught my stator just as it was starting to discolor and it was showing to be grounded out (no charging output) and the 3 connections in silicone boots behind the side cover were getting extremely hot, melting the silicone covers. My opinon, the regulator goes out, causes the stator to overheat, causing a meltdown. My regulator was fried also.

Last edited by Chuck A.; 03-31-2011 at 06:19 PM.
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post #8 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 06:26 PM
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^x2 ~ I share your opinion Chuck. I do think that the R/R can fail to chassis ground out, and overheat the stator. There are some who place fuses in line with the stator wires to insure against this happening. Many here will disagree, and I was once talked out of installing fuses. I will once again place it on my task list. Thanks for the input.

~~C8> Ratt
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Done: Coastered, .020 ign., Iridiums, VM, Plexistar II, MCCT's
Next: LED's
Will Do: MOSFET, Horns, Shave(maybe)
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post #9 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiral_72 View Post
Thank you for the information. I'll go through the bike a couple more times before I install the new parts.

I wish I'd have thought to ask y'all before I ordered. Hopefully what I got was ok.

stator:
http://www.bikebandit.com/rick-s-mot...=7594&t=1&td=1

regulator:
http://www.bikebandit.com/rick-s-mot...fier-regulator

I'm pretty sure my stator can't be rebuilt. It really is toast, as in melted, burned and in pieces. The link you give me mentions a MOSFET regulator. I wish I'd have known that was an option (again, I didn't ask ). Are they good enough to return the one I bought and pay the restocking fee??
Disclaimer: I have a fair bit of experience working on my cars and trucks, but VERY little actually, physically working on this bike. I have read through the Clymer manual and highlighted many procedures in it, as well as spending most of my time for the past 33 months on this board while healing from an accident. I read and retain large amounts of info, or can find it again when needed. That said, I am not a mechanic or particularly electrically talented.

So with regards to the stator from Rick. Reportedly he used to sell good quality gear, but now most of the electrical parts that he and the other suppliers sell is cheap crap from China. There are two local sources for me to get a stator rewound that have been recommended to me by 2 local experienced bike mechanics who are members of the local bike forum. I have not checked what the shops would charge to rebuild a stator for the vn750. If they were too high priced I would order one from Tim Parrott without hesitation and pay the core charge, if mine was defective as you say yours is.

As I said in the previous post, after reading ALL THE INFO in the links on the Mosfet r/r, they seem to eliminate the three most common concerns about the OEM unit.
1.- The mosfet r/r only gets warm, not hot, even when located near the exhaust.
2.- It charges with a steady voltage of 14.x volts from idle speed (1100rpm) to redline. The OEM r/r doesn`t begin charging until 2500 rpm.
3.- These two traits seem to protect the stator from early failure.

Now you are leaning toward pulling the engine for the stator replacement and check for any other problems at the same time. You may be looking at either or both of the low quality Chinese stator and r/r failing again again in the next few months or year. This is not as costly to remedy now with TS7`s case mod to replace the stator the second time. (Use TPE`s stator this time!!) The r/r is easy to get at and not a big deal (except for the wasted $100) to replace with the mosfet, if the one you have coming now fails.

STUDY the info on the ebay site for the TPE stator and the mosfet r/r and see if you agree with me.

Your money, your time, your decision. Sorry for the long

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9127
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post #10 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiral_72 View Post
I'm seriously considering following your suggestion to pull the motor. Honestly I don't know how I'm gonna get it out, but I'll consult the Clymer manual for that too.
hey if your at the point of getting the stator out.. your 90% done pulling it all the way out...a floor jack will help with this.. once your clear of the shifter and disconected from the drive shaft... poof your out...dont count ont he floor jack to hold it up though.. once out of the frame your on un easy ground..a helper is the way to go..
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