Coil Wiring and Relay mod - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #11 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-04-2012, 05:57 PM
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Sorry, but could this be a replacement for the pickup coil mod?

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post #12 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-04-2012, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by towa View Post
Sorry, but could this be a replacement for the pickup coil mod?
The pickup mod is to re-gap the magnetic pickup for a stronger field signal to the coils. that signal is a spike of voltage sent to the ignition control and then output to trigger the coils.

The mod that Fergy is showing us is to strengthen the 12V DC bias voltage supply to the coils. this overcomes any voltage drop that a worn wiring harness might show by simply direct wiring 12V to the coils....essentially bypassing the wire harness.

They are actually 2 different mods with 2 different purposes.

I hope I explained that right.....I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong
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post #13 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 05:00 AM
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i ma confused. 36 goes from battery or from starter realy bolt?
cause i did it from battery and battery goes empty!

thank you all!
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post #14 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by manhunter05 View Post
i ma confused. 36 goes from battery or from starter realy bolt?
cause i did it from battery and battery goes empty!

thank you all!
Make sure you are putting the terminals on the correct pins and that you have an Normally Open relay.

You should hear an audible click when you turn the key to "on" with the kill switch in the run position.The trigger wire for the coil goes on 86 and 85 goes to ground,36 and 87 should show no continuity between them with no wires plugged in .Check to make sure you are looking at the relay right and using the correct #pins .It should not matter if it is on the battery or the relay bolt there should be o volts going thru the coil in the off position.




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post #15 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by denny6006 View Post
Make sure you are putting the terminals on the correct pins and that you have an Normally Open relay.

You should hear an audible click when you turn the key to "on" with the kill switch in the run position.The trigger wire for the coil goes on 86 and 85 goes to ground,36 and 87 should show no continuity between them with no wires plugged in .Check to make sure you are looking at the relay right and using the correct #pins .It should not matter if it is on the battery or the relay bolt there should be o volts going thru the coil in the off position.

i hear click when i connect relay #36 with battery and i even before that i turn a key. i am pretty sure, that i have done all as it should be. #86 is red cable from back coil. #85 is ground connect to the frame. #87 goes to the both coils.

thx

edit: i am using bosch 185 relay.
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post #16 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 11:57 AM
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Copy & Pasted from other posts...here are total instructions...hope this assists you... (sorry for the long post)

Coil Wiring and Relay mod (this is not that difficult)
________________________________________
Direct wiring the coils to the battery using a relay to bypass the original wiring harness and thus
providing full battery voltage level to the coils.

This mod would be used generally for older bikes that have questionable wiring. A quick way to know if this will help your situation, is to measure voltage at the battery with ignition on, bike not running. Should be around 12.5 volts. Then measure voltage on the red coil power wire, again with ignition on and bike not running. If you have less than 12 volts or less here, you are losing voltage somewhere in your wiring, through the numerous switches and connectors before getting to the coils. I did this now on my 2002 just to test it and see if it would help the hot starting problem. So far it, combined with moving my regulator/rectifier, seems to have made all the difference in the world. Time will tell.

Parts needed:

Basic automotive relay. Can be found in the bling section of your auto parts store.
Inline fuse holder. I prefer the waterproof mini fuse holder for this.
10 A mini fuse
12-14 gauge wire, red and black
Various insulated spade connectors (6) and a ring connector, crimp type for 12-14 gauge wire
Soldering iron and solder - Heat Shrink Tubing

>>>>>>>>>>>>UNABLE TO POST IMAGE<<<<<<<<
Figure 1. (above)

I borrowed this diagram from folks at KZrider.com, where I am also a member. Note: Our VN750's have RED wires connecting the coils to power, not Red/Yellow as in the diagram.
Another note, my relay had #30 instead of #36 on the Power connector.


A. Automotive relay (Square with # 36, 85, 86, 87) (some relays labeled #30, 85, 86, 87)
B. Original rear coil power wire, going to relay as the trigger.(Red from kill switch)
C. New 12-14 gauge red power wire going to both front & rear coils.
D. Inline fuse holder.(10 A)
E. Ground wire (to frame)
************************************************** ************
#36 (30)- 12V Battery Power In (fused)
#87 - Relay 12V output to Coils (Switched via this Relay)

#85 - Connect to Ground
#86 - Switched 12V from ignition/Kill Switch (allows closing of this relay transferring 12V (#30/36) to Coils via output #87)
************************************************** ************
Fish a red 12-14 gauge wire up from the battery box area, under fuel tank, to the front coil. Leave yourself extra wire at the battery box end, enough to be able to attach this end to your relay. I put my relay in the right front corner outside of the battery box area, electrical tape around contacts, then taped/zip tied mounted to my frame. You might have to loosen the fuel tank and raise it slightly to fish this wire through. Make sure it stays under the frame where it won't have the tank sitting/rubbing on it. Strip the wire and tin the tip with solder. Crimp on an insulated female spade connector. I used insulated spade connectors that have a cover over the entire connector. Pull the red wire off the coil, put some dielectric grease on the new connector and connect the new wire onto the coil. Wrap the old connector in black electrical tape and push it under the frame. I didn't cut any existing wires to do this mod. It can be reversed easily if needed.

Measure from the power terminal of the rear coil to a location where it can intersect with the other end of new front coil wire you just installed and cut another piece of red wire. Mine was about 8" long. Strip both ends of the 8" wire. Taking the wire you attached to the front coil, find an area of this wire where the 8" wire can intersect with it, and cut the long wire, and strip the end. Now using the rest of the wire you just cut, strip it's end and join all three ends, (end from wire from front coil, end of 8" wire, and other end of wire you are going to use to go to the relay) and twist them together. Tin the twisted wire with plenty of solder, then shrink wrap/ tape the connection. Tin the other end of the 8" wire and crimp another insulated female spade connector to the end. Remove the existing red power wire from the rear coil, dab a little dielectric grease on the new connector and connect the spade connector from the 8" wire to the power terminal of the rear coil.
The remaining end of wire coming from that 3 way junction you soldered needs to be stripped and tinned, and a female spade connector crimped on, DE greased and connected to the terminal on the relay labeled 87. This is your power to the coils from the relay.

Pull the tape back on the original red wire (from the rear coil) to give you enough slack to be able to reach the relay with the wire. Again, dab a little DE grease in the connector and connect this original red coil power wire to the post on the relay labeled 86. This original wire will now be used as the trigger to activate the relay when the key is turned on.

Tin the leads on both ends of the inline fuse holder (D Figure 2) and on one end crimp a ring connector that is large enough to fit the battery terminal screw through it. On the other end, crimp another female spade connector, dab some DE grease and connect the spade connector to the terminal on the relay labeled 36 or 30,( depending on which relay you have. Insert your 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder and close the rubber top.


Take a piece of 12-14 gauge black wire and cut a piece long enough to reach the relay, and go to the grounding point on the right side of the frame, above the starter relay. Strip and tin the ends and on one end crimp another spade connector and dab DE grease into it and attach it to the terminal on the relay labeled 85. Remove the bolt holding the ground to the frame, clean the area with a wire brush (I used my dremmel with a wire brush tool--wear safety glasses as these little wires become missiles!) and attach your original ground wire and the new black ground wire going to the relay, and tighten well.

Now take the other end of your inline fuse wire with the ring connector and put it over the positive battery terminal and connect the battery terminal bolt and tighten securely.

Reattach your battery ground cable to your battery and tighten securelyl.

I wrapped black tape around the relay and the wiring connections and then taped/zip tied the relay to the right side frame in front of the battery.

Some side notes: While doing this mod, I noticed that the starter relay positive terminal was rusty so I pulled it apart and cleaned the connection well. There is also a two prong connector that plugs into the starter relay and I pulled it off and the terminals were corroded, so I cleaned them up as well, used DE grease on them and put them back together. Just things you should check while you are in there doing this stuff.

That's it. Now your power to the coils comes directly from your battery so weak wiring no longer comes into play, and maybe it will have a positive impact on the hot starting issue as well.

Last edited by WilliamTech; 03-10-2013 at 10:37 AM.
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post #17 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 01:31 PM
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ok. i will go thruu step by step and the we will see....

thx
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post #18 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 05:16 PM
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Manhunter...dobrii dyen !...Im assuming you have a Euro model and the wiring diagram for the Euro ? Im not sure, but US and Euro models could be a little different.



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post #19 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie View Post
Manhunter...dobrii dyen !...Im assuming you have a Euro model and the wiring diagram for the Euro ? Im not sure, but US and Euro models could be a little different.
....but Wolfie, why/how could this Mod be any different on a Euro Model ?

Relay
Battery
Coils
Wires
? ? ?

Ok, maybe a Relay Label difference....


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post #20 of 60 (permalink) Old 02-18-2013, 03:54 AM
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dobar dan, Wolfie,

it is Vn700 1985 a1-it was made only for usa?

i ma still confused, did everything right but i hear click befor i turning ignicition key.

and i tried with 4 differnt relays...

going crazy....

edit:

tried once again. same as before, click before i turn key.


so i was trying something else, i fish the backligt power cable, an connect it to the #30/36.
now is everything working as it should be.
when i turn key, then i hear a click an motor start perfect.

what to do?
leave it that way?

Last edited by manhunter05; 02-18-2013 at 10:07 AM.
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