Regulator/Rectifier Relocation Procedure - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
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Old 02-24-2011, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Regulator/Rectifier Relocation Procedure

I'm posting this here since my personal web page hosting has gone away...



Relocating the Regulator/Rectifier from
over the Goat's Belly, to frame for
better air flow.

The Regulator/Rectifier (R/R) is mounted from the factory to the bottom of the battery box, right above the pre muffler, or Goat's Belly, where it gets an enormous amount of heat. The r/r generates it's own heat by converting AC voltage to DC voltage and that added to the "cooking" it gets from the Goat's Belly, is enough to eventually cause it to fail. It could, (although I haven't seen proof of this) cause your stator to fail at the same time. So, one of the first mods we 750 owners should do, is move the r/r to a cooler location.

I have my own way of doing this, which in my opinion was much easier than to remove everything from the battery box and lift it up to reach the bolts that are coming up from the r/r and are screwed into nuts that are spot welded into the bottom of the battery box. My method is to drill out the bolts from the top.

Tools needed:

Drill with extension bit
Pilot bit
1/2" drill bit
1 1/8" U bolt
1/4-20 Lock nuts (4)
1/4-20 1" bolts (2)
1.25" piece of 3/8" fuel hose
piece of strap metal to use as new mounting bracket

Start by removing the seat and battery. Then remove the rubber pad in the bottom of the battery box.


You can see the nuts where they are spot welded in the bottom of the battery box. Using a center punch, mark a dimple in the center of each bolt, then use the pilot bit, (I used a 1/4" pilot bit just to make a center hole in the bolt) to make a pilot hole in the center of the bolt with the drill. Then use a 1/2" bit to drill out the bolt. It will take the nut with it down to a nub. You will hear the bolt fall down when you are far enough, and the r/r will be free.


Here's a nice blurry pic of the bolts/nuts. I shot this in the dark with a flashlight so the camera had a hard time focusing. I drilled them out and left it for finishing in the morning.


Here's a pic of the finished drilled out nuts I shot the next morning before I put the battery back in. I used a telescoping magnet to pick up all the metal shavings.


U-bolt (A) with piece of fuel hose (B) used to protect the frame, and the piece of strap metal (C) I used to mount the r/r in it's new location, right above the left passenger foot peg. I marked the holes for the u-bolt and the r/r, and used a drill bit one size larger than 1/4" to drill the holes. I used lock nuts with washers on the ubolt and the bolts holding the r/r onto the mount. Notice that I mounted the u-bolt above the grommet where the side cover snaps in. I also used dielectric grease on the connector pins before I plugged it in to the r/r. That's it, r/r relocated!

NOTE: If you are having charging issues with your bike, you should go through this Electrical Fault Finding Flow Chart and find/fix the problem before doing any mod! http://www.electrosport.com/media/pd...ng-diagram.pdf

Fergy
Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart
SEAFOAM JUNKIE!



Last edited by fergy; 06-21-2011 at 09:59 AM.
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Old 02-24-2011, 05:50 PM
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Good write up... Sticky please!!!
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Old 02-25-2011, 08:51 PM
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Thanks Bro
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:46 PM
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I did the exact same except I used a 3/4" Electrical Mineralac Strap and painted it black.


1986 Black Kawasaki Vulcan VN750 "Black KAWK"
VN750 #9300 & VROC #33453

EMGO Handlebar, V&H Exhaust, Drop Shocks, Raised/Painted Fork, MeanStreak Seat, Tank Bib, ME880 Oversize Tires, Engine Guard, Custom Mirrors, Chris Products Turn Signals, Ear Shave, 150/42 Jets, PINGEL Fuel Valve, MCCT, Volt Meter, Shendegen R/R, AGM Battery, Coastered, .020 Coils, Relo Gauges & Headlamp, SilverStar Ultra, LED Flashing Brake Light, Center Stand Delete, WOLO Airhorn.
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Good input! Always nice to have more options.

Fergy
Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart
SEAFOAM JUNKIE!


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Old 05-26-2011, 06:50 PM
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Thanks for the info. I did this last week and it worked great! I had previously replaced the rectifier twice and not one mechanic at either shop I went to had the sense to suggest this.

2003 Vulcan 750
Coasters
Relocated rectifier
Rewired coils
Iridium plugs
AGM Battery
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Old 08-25-2011, 03:10 AM
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Problem dry fitting R/R relo

Hey Fergy and The Duece

I bought the hardware to do both of your relo's to see which I liked better. But dry fitting both I found I couldn't get my side cover back on without notching it out. My bike was hit from behind in it's former life so I don't know if that distorted the frame and changed the clearance tolerances or what. I've looked at both your pictures and your side covers don't looked notched to me.

How'd you get your covers back on? Ya think my frame's slightly bent? Seems to drive okay. Just curious, George.

To Do List:

-T7 stator mod
-R/R relo
-MF Battery
-voltmeter
-ignition switch
-ACCT's to MCCT's
-LED brake & turns
-spline lube

Did I miss anything?
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Old 08-26-2011, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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I would be guessing without a photo, but unless you used a much thicker U bolt, mine fit with a tiny bit of room to spare without having to notch out the cover.

Fergy
Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart
SEAFOAM JUNKIE!


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Old 09-09-2011, 09:50 AM
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Kudoes to Fergy and Duece

Did the R/R mod yesterday. Removed the rear gaurd to get to the bolts which actually came off without a hitch. Modded the dueceman's set up adding a bracket with a 90 in it and mounted. Drilled the shield for clearance with the wire harness. Thru on a little paint and wholla...
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The Admiral

2000vn750
16000 miles and counting

Items done:
Plugs beaded/gapped at .032
Marbled
Carbs at 3.5 turns
Seafoam tank and crank
Rotella Syn 5W-40
Spline lube
Ovsz Shinko230's
Grambo - cam chains
Pickups gapped at .020
R/R relocate
Sealed Battery

To Do:
Iridium plugs
LED Lighting and 100W Bulb
Acct to Mcct Conv
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kayakrazy View Post
Hey Fergy and The Duece

I bought the hardware to do both of your relo's to see which I liked better. But dry fitting both I found I couldn't get my side cover back on without notching it out. My bike was hit from behind in it's former life so I don't know if that distorted the frame and changed the clearance tolerances or what. I've looked at both your pictures and your side covers don't looked notched to me.

How'd you get your covers back on? Ya think my frame's slightly bent? Seems to drive okay. Just curious, George.
I had to notch my cover and it is not noticeable at any angle.

1986 Black Kawasaki Vulcan VN750 "Black KAWK"
VN750 #9300 & VROC #33453

EMGO Handlebar, V&H Exhaust, Drop Shocks, Raised/Painted Fork, MeanStreak Seat, Tank Bib, ME880 Oversize Tires, Engine Guard, Custom Mirrors, Chris Products Turn Signals, Ear Shave, 150/42 Jets, PINGEL Fuel Valve, MCCT, Volt Meter, Shendegen R/R, AGM Battery, Coastered, .020 Coils, Relo Gauges & Headlamp, SilverStar Ultra, LED Flashing Brake Light, Center Stand Delete, WOLO Airhorn.
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