minimizing wiring harness - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
board917's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 93
iTrader: (0)
 
minimizing wiring harness

I am doin a custom build on a 94 VN750 and im trying to figure out the bare minimums of the wiring harness. I am not going to run gauges, thermostats, or turn signals. I have some experience with a 454 LTD which is a similar harness. right now i have the ignition hooked up but nothing happens when i hit start, the solenoid doesnt click over but it will if the short it with a screwdriver. I have no power at the start switch, I think i have a bad fuse box? I have the following hooked up and the rest is not- ignition, CDI box, fuse box, rectifier, starter solenoid, coils & stator. I saw the post about testing the fuse box, I have battery voltage going in but not coming out of the 10pin connection. If thats bad i guess it would hinder spark because its not giving power to the CDI and coils?
board917 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-17-2011, 05:10 PM
Sparky!!!
 
slimvulcanrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 8,695
iTrader: (3)
   
Garage
i will post up a wireing diagram that i made to strip my harness to the bare minimal wires
slimvulcanrider is offline  
post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-17-2011, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
board917's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 93
iTrader: (0)
 
awesome, thanks, how long did it take to untape the harness?
board917 is offline  
 
post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 06:56 AM
Sparky!!!
 
slimvulcanrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 8,695
iTrader: (3)
   
Garage
took me a couple of days to work out all the kinks. But when I do it all over again to clean it up and make it look prety, it will take a couple of hours... I recomend buying several spools of various colored wire and building the harness from scratch, just re use the stock connectors to connect things like the JB, Igniter Box, and any other stock electrical item you are going to run.

one other thing I should mention is that I only used the ignighter box, all else has been scrapped to include the ignition switch, JB, RLU, and prety much every thing else you see missing

slimvulcanrider is offline  
post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
board917's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 93
iTrader: (0)
 
its possible to remove the JB from the system?
board917 is offline  
post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 12:42 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Simpsonville, SC
Posts: 1,620
iTrader: (8)
 
I believe slim has done just that. Looks like he replaced the JB with a "fuse box" with 'always on' and 'acc. on' fuses, and replaced the JB relays with standard automotive type relays.
dariv is offline  
post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 02:35 PM
Sparky!!!
 
slimvulcanrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 8,695
iTrader: (3)
   
Garage
yes that is exactly what I did, you will also notice that you need a minimum of one diode for the neutral safety switch. I also added a relay for the ignition coils, so they will get a full 12.0-14.5V... one note on adding automotive relays and a fuse box, there isn't room any where on the bike to mount them, so I went with an "earshave" but kept the ears in place to hold my electrical goodies. the left ear houses my ignition switch, fuse box, relays, and diodes. The right side houses my R/R and my Ignigter Box.

One other thing I would do differently is make common hot and ground posts inside the "ears" to make things a lot cleaner, right now I have way to many wires running from the battery to the fuse box for no reason (they aren't shown in my schematic).
slimvulcanrider is offline  
post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
board917's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 93
iTrader: (0)
 
that sounds like a lot more work than its worth... u eliminated the junction box but ended up adding more bulk? wuts the purpose?
board917 is offline  
post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 05:30 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Simpsonville, SC
Posts: 1,620
iTrader: (8)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by board917 View Post
that sounds like a lot more work than its worth... u eliminated the junction box but ended up adding more bulk? wuts the purpose?
For one thing, to get rid of the non-replaceable relays inside of the JB.........
dariv is offline  
post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 06:10 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Simpsonville, SC
Posts: 1,620
iTrader: (8)
 
Slim............
1: Did you run both TCI ground wires though the diodes? ( stock wiring has a dedicated ground (B/Y) and one that goes through the safety switches (B/W to JB pin 14))

2: I don't believe the diode is necessary in your circuit. From what I can tell from the Clymer manual, the diodes keep the starter relay from back feeding the TCI along JB pin14. I can't see what purpose it serves in your circuit.....

3: I like your idea of running the coils directly off the battery for max power, but I think when I do mine I will power the TCI off the 'A' circuit of the ign. sw. and leave the coils as the only things off the 'coil relay.'

4: point 3 above makes me wonder if the R/W wire off the TCI even needs to be connected to the 'S' terminal at all? I believe it functions the same as a starter ballast in a car's ignition/start circuit....that is to provide more voltage to the coils while the starter motor is running. BUT, if the coils are connected directly to the battery via a big, fat wire....maybe that would be enough??

5: I have not tested any of these ideas, YET........... so there is an ever so slight chance I could be totally wrong

Last edited by dariv; 02-18-2011 at 06:42 PM.
dariv is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome