Another Charging Problem - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Another Charging Problem

Put your minds together. Across 2 of any of the 3 leads//////Checked the AC voltage with stator unplugged,, 14 volt at Idle/70 volts at 4000 rpm. Plugged in to R/R it tested 10 volts ac at idle/ 12 volt ac at 4000 rpm with only 11.68 volt dc coming out of the R/R. Problem is???? Running with the lights on at any rpm battery volt check 11.83 dc.

Last edited by Chuck A.; 02-16-2011 at 06:59 PM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 09:33 PM
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do you have a clymer or kawasaki service manual? if you do, do the r/r and the stator test as per the manuals, then post those results. Here is the most important one to check first, with engine cold, test the continuity through the stator legs.

Engine Cold Tests:

Stator Legs
Continuity
A-B =
A-C =
B-C =

VAC
A-B=
A-C=
B-C=

Engine Warm Stator Tests

Continuity
A-B =
A-C =
B-C =

VAC
A-B=
A-C=
B-C=

Read the manual to perorm the R/R continuity tests. once we have all this information we can try to figure out what is going on..

One other thing, disconnect the battery and clean the terminals, and disconnect the main ground (battery to frame) and clean, make sure you tighten the connection back down tight.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Cold Tests Disconnected from R/R:

Stator Legs
Continuity
A-B = .00 ohms
A-C = .00 ohms
B-C = .00 ohms

VAC
A-B= 16 at 1000 rpm 70 4000 rpm
A-C= 16 at 1000 rpm 70 4000 rpm
B-C= 16 at 1000 rpm 70 4000 rpm


Engine Warm Stator Tests Disconnected from R/R

Continuity
A-B = .00 ohms
A-C = .00 ohms
B-C = .00 ohms

VAC
A-B= 16 at 1000 rpm 70 4000 rpm
A-C= 16 at 1000 rpm 70 4000 rpm
B-C= 16 at 1000 rpm 70 4000 rpm

Connected to R/R: Cold and Hot

A-B= 10 at 1000 rmp 12 at 4000 rpm
A-C= 10 at 1000 rmp 12 at 4000 rpm
B-C= 10 at 1000 rmp 12 at 4000 rpm
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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Just went and checked it again, Battery showed it was getting a charge of 12.4 volts and then I started smelling hot plastic. The boots over the stator wire connections in front of the battery were starting the smoke from the connections getting hot. I cut the engine off and restarted it. The battery was not charging but the connection were getting hot again. Stator got to be producing power to do that. Is the R/R shot causing a shortage or resistants on the stator wires?

Last edited by Chuck A.; 02-17-2011 at 06:05 AM.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-17-2011, 09:14 AM
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If you know that the battery is in good condition (this is important), it is starting to sound like the R/R is dumping all the stator power to ground (high stator current). Sounds like the battery is ok if you can start the bike. I would do the R/R checks Slim suggests. And I would not let the stator wires get hot any more, you could significantly reducing the life of the stator in doing so.

~~C8> Ratt
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-17-2011, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Just went and checked it again, Battery showed it was getting a charge of 12.4 volts and then I started smelling hot plastic. The boots over the stator wire connections in front of the battery were starting the smoke from the connections getting hot. I cut the engine off and restarted it. The battery was not charging but the connection were getting hot again. Stator got to be producing power to do that. Is the R/R shot causing a shortage or resistants on the stator wires?
The connectors get hot because of a poor connection. Do whatever is necessary to make a good contact.

Measuring the stator output voltages while the stator is connected to the R/R gives very little useful information.

Did you measure the charging voltage directly from the battery poles, or between positive pole and the frame? If you measured between the poles, there may be voltage loss in the battery ground wire you did not see. Make sure that the ground wire has a good contact at both ends.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Put my bike up on 2 car ramps and put the center stand up on a concrete block. Wouldn't gonna work that low to the ground. got my brother tranmission jack top plate that has adjustment knobs to make it level anywhich direction and put it on my floor jack for the engine to sit on. Pulled the stator out of my bike last night. Had the engine ready to turn in about 3 to 4 hr.s taking my time. For the life of me I could not get the engine to turn more than 2 1/2 inches. Just enough for the shift rod not to clear the frame. I had a pry bar giving it hell, jacking the engine up and down, tilting it, and it would pull itself back in place for the most part. 3 more hr.s of this went on. Only thing left hooked to the engine was the driveshaft and it was not in a bind. Finally after mashing a finger till blood ran out from under the nail and having to use the pry bar to get it out, I grab the handlebar and shook the piss out of the bike almost to the point of turning it over, the engine moved right on over. Lord PLEASE forgive for the words I use during this process. Got Up this morning only to find Tim Parrots website still "under construction" so I couldn't get his mailing address. I just went ahead an order a Ricks stator new from his web site.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 04:01 PM
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shoot should have sent me a pm... [email protected]
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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I sent him an email last Sunday and the same one again Tuesday and haven't got a response. For what the new one cost, what it cost to send the old one to him and then the price of the rebuild and shipping back, I can sell him my old one and he will pay the shipping I was told in the first email, I will only have $20 dollars difference in the new one and a rebuild. I'm sure he does good work but I can let the bike stay apart long. Had to borrow shop space at my brothers superbusy mechanic shop ( tax return time) for space to take her apart. My shop has too many 4 wheelers, lawn mowers and and a VW fiberglass dune buggy in it. Small to start with.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 09:22 PM
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But those stators aren't as good as Tim's rebuilt ones. IIRC, one member had his new stator (correct me if I'm wrong) fail in less than 275 miles.

Did you see the $20 stator mod by Tuxedoseven? No longer have to pull the engine!

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
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