Replace Stator Without Removing Engine Mod - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #21 of 161 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Diamondjim05 View Post
Knifemaker I read on another post that someone else thought about it and did that, and someone commented on how the frame was not designed to come apart there and it lost around 80% of the strength within the frame.....
I guess it could lose some strength if you just bolt the frame back together....my idea was to cut off part of the left side frame to do the stator replacement and then , using some pieces of steel rod or tubing that fit inside the frame tubing, WELD the piece back...Hit it with some black spray paint and your done.

The weld would actually make the that side of the frame stronger than it was before.

I should also point out that the Vulcans frame is likely stronger than it needs to be in the first place. This is not a 150 hp machine. And most folks here don't toss it over and test the rigidity of the frame at high speeds....and those that have likely could not tell the difference.

And the "engineers" that designed the Vulcan were pinheads anyway...because they made the WRONG SIDE of the frame removable. they did this to speed up assembly....NOT to make working on the bike any easier. Poor planning for sure, a mark of bad engineering.

Cutting holes in factory designed engine pieces? Yeah baby.. that's called "customizing".



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post #22 of 161 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Frame mods have been hashed out in earlier threads. Using the forum search engine you will find examples of frames modded well and not so well.

https://www.vn750.com/photopost/showp...24&ppuser=1321
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthrea...t=11180&page=2
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8822

Last edited by TuxedoSeven; 08-06-2011 at 08:24 PM.
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post #23 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 01:35 AM
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I am gonna try this sometime in the next month with a bit of help from people who know what they are doing. I have one question - the 3 yellow, hot cables that come from the stator - where do they connect? Do this mod somehow relocate that connection on the other end? I guess my real question is - where do they connect to the wiring harness?
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post #24 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 03:48 AM
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The three yellow wires go to the regulator/rectifier. When you actually replace the stator, send your old one to Tim Parrot: http://www.tpe-usa.com/ For a fraction of the cost of a new stator he will rewind it to better than original specs. If you also ask him to put longer wires from the stator, he will. This will allow you to eliminate the bullet connectors in the stator leads. Those connections can corrode, overheat, and lead to stator failure. I can't find my link to replacement six pin connectors that connect the stator wires to the r/r, but in the stock location under the battery box, it often gets eaten by battery acid.

That's another reason to relocate the r/r or get an AGM battery.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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post #25 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 09:42 PM
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I can't find my link to replacement six pin connectors that connect the stator wires to the r/r, but in the stock location under the battery box, it often gets eaten by battery acid.
Electrosport offers the connectors here
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post #26 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 11:10 PM
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Thanks, Slim.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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post #27 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 02:46 AM
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Has anyone tried to make the frame where it's removeable like the right side?
I have talked to a buddy of mine, and he is going to help me draw up some plans to do just that.
It will be similar to the right side with a different aspect. We are going to cut the frame ahead of the downtube in a straight spot, put a piece of rod inside of it, weld it together so it can't move, then drill holes in the tubes to bolt it back together. On the front, we will make it similar to the right side, cut the frame, weld a flat piece on each part of the tube, make them offset where they can be sandwiched together similar to the right side, then bolt it together. He has a buddy that works in a steel shop who can get the right type of steel, and we will make a mockup before we even think about doing any cutting.
I'm going to have him do me up a drawing to show you guys what I am talking about.
It will facilitate getting the engine out easier, and to get to the left side cover off w/o notching or cutting the frame.
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post #28 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 04:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RakerBill View Post
Has anyone tried to make the frame where it's removeable like the right side?
Actually yes, it's mentioned a few posts up

Quote:
Originally Posted by TuxedoSeven View Post
As for cutting the frame, it can be a safe mod if done right. Check out the Gallery:

https://www.vn750.com/photopost/showp...24&ppuser=1321
Frame should've been made that way to start with!

1990 VN 750
First (hopefully last) time in the shop:
Carb rebuild New brakes front and back New radiator fan
I've done:
Spline Lube New (used - non-leaky) Gas Tank New Fork Seals New Pirelli tires New Yuasa Maintenance Free Battery
Fresh Dexcool coolant Upgraded Shunt-type R/R (Relocated) Headlight Bypass Stator tested - PASSED
Clutch Swap - EBC Street Racer Frictions with new eBayed steels ACCT to MCCT conversion
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post #29 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 08:16 AM
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Here's the link. I believe Ed Albris used a right hand removeable frame member and converted it to fit on the left side. See them on ebay pretty often. https://www.vn750.com/photopost/showp...24&ppuser=1321

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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post #30 of 161 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justicePrevails View Post
TuxedoSeven or anyone who has done this mod.
(1) Is it absolutly necessary to cut off the original Stator wires (short) and leave in place. I guess there is a reason you have to notch out a new hole for the wires to come through. For some reason this hole scares me the most.
(2) One more thing that I'm drawing a blank on.... The 3 - 6mm X 15mm machine screws and the 3 - 6mm X 25mm ones appear to both go into the same 3 holes .... just from the opposite sides?
(3) Are the holes "threaded" or "tapped"? Do they meet in the middle of a threaded hole? Are there 6mm nuts somewhere, or am I just not getting it. TIA
(1) No, it is not necessary to notch the outer case and reroute the wires, and is not done in the TOC mod where they tell you to fish the wires through the existing hole.
(2) The suggested machine screw sizes will work if you use 16 gauge plate, as I did. If you use a heavier gauge plate, you will need longer screws and a thicker gasket between the inner and outer case.
(3) Yes, the holes of the inner case are threaded all the way through and the machine screws should meet in the middle, or, if you prefer, use one long screw and secure with a nut. Please use thread lock.

Last edited by TuxedoSeven; 05-09-2013 at 08:55 AM.
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alternator , cover , r/r , regulator , stator

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