Stator question - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-25-2006, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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Stator question

Is it true that we have 32amp stator systems? This was emailed to me from a good friend of mine.....

"most 32 amp systems only deliver 7 amps with a 6o watt headlight, taillight, and two running lights ur using about 9 amps and an alt that puts out 7 amps at idle is already under a 2 amp draw. this will go to 4 amps with the brake light on. not a heavy draw on a 16 amp attery but add lets say a constant 9 amp draw for a fuel pump and this brings the draw up to about 13 amps this is a big draw on a 16 amp battery and will lead to poor battery life and unreliable starting a three phase system will cure this problem...moving up to a 40 amp or 50 amp system will get rid of the problem"

Is this true about our bikes? Could this be wwhy so many stators are destroyed so quickly?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-25-2006, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyMike
Is it true that we have 32amp stator systems? This was emailed to me from a good friend of mine.....

"most 32 amp systems only deliver 7 amps with a 6o watt headlight, taillight, and two running lights ur using about 9 amps and an alt that puts out 7 amps at idle is already under a 2 amp draw. this will go to 4 amps with the brake light on. not a heavy draw on a 16 amp attery but add lets say a constant 9 amp draw for a fuel pump and this brings the draw up to about 13 amps this is a big draw on a 16 amp battery and will lead to poor battery life and unreliable starting a three phase system will cure this problem...moving up to a 40 amp or 50 amp system will get rid of the problem"

Is this true about our bikes? Could this be wwhy so many stators are destroyed so quickly?
Dunno how many amps we have. do know this though. We dont have a fuel pump, and we also run a 3 phase system IIRC. I've tried to find an upgrade for our stator system, and there doesnt seem to really be one. Also most stators fail b/c of the oil that is used to cool them (crankcase oil) so the unburnt fuels and carbon breaks down the insulation creating a short.

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


Band Engineer/Webmaster for Josey Contreras Tejano Band
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-25-2006, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well, if anyone feels like wrenchin' a little in SouthEastern PA, give me a shout!
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-26-2006, 12:02 AM
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Not just from the contaminants in the oil breaking down the insulation. Also the heat from the current in the small stator heats up the insulation and breaks it down.
Best bet is to find some way to keep the oil cool. Also keep the coolant cool. In other words, do not let the fan start up to keep the engine cool. If that fan starts, it's worse than the fuel pump we don't have. As long as it's running, it's cooling the coolant in the radiator but it's also heating up the wiring in the stator due to the increased current being produced to run the fan.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-26-2006, 08:24 AM
 
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Hi:

There is a cool modification from another vn750.com post:

> The thing that makes it a biatch for a lot of motorcycles, not just
> the
> vn750, is the fact that you have to pull or tilt the motor to get at the
> stator to replace it. Darn stupid engineering in my book. At any rate ,
> you can buy the modified stator cover from www.tocmanufacturing.com , so
> when you replace your stator, you'll only have to pull the engine once.
> The next time it will be a 30 minute job to replace the stator.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-29-2006, 01:34 AM
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poor engineering!

Yes! I completely agree about the poor engineering.

I spent 3 days pulling my engine (by myself) and putting it back together again. The whole time I raved (to myself) about Kawasaki's poor engineering!

Good design on the bike. But the engineering sucks at many places--stator being a prime example.

And in my case, the assembly was pure bad stuff! I understand the assembly is done here in Sacramento (or nearby someplace). Seriously bad assembly. I had to replace cross-threaded bolts, plug in vacuum hoses, re-attach handle-grips, put rubber boots in place, etc.

Probably a good thing the stator went bad so that I could see all the faulty assembly stuff.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-30-2006, 10:57 AM
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I think to TOC mod may also let the stator overheat. When moved there is, in my opinion a greater chance of stator failure due to overheating. it will be easier to change out but you may have to do it more often....

my .02 worth
Stan

VROC #12293
2004 VN750
MSF Ridercoach

new tires (OEM Stones) 6/2008
home made floorboards (knifemakers styling)
stator replaced 6/2008
cobra slashcuts 7/2007
clear alternatives brake & tailight 8/2008
Added Mutazu hard bags 3/2009
added customLED load equalizers for the bags LED lights 3/2009
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-24-2006, 12:16 PM
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Electrosport makes a replacement stator for our bikes that according to the folks on the VROC site is much much better than the OEM stator with higher power output even at idle. Part number ESG-050. Price 119.00

http://www.electrosport.com/shopping...od_esg050.html

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-09-2006, 03:26 PM
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Hi - Newbie here, with an electrical problem that might fit this line of descriptions. I was up in Gettysburg yesterday just to see what Bike Week was all about, and got caught up in a long, slow line of traffic on my '92 750. Dogged along for about 15 minutes in first gear, with the temp gauge rising, but never redlining. And at some point,"something" kicked in and the gauge dropped some again. After a bit, my riding partners and I decided to pull into a parking lot and take a break from sitting; got in the turn lane to go left and sat some more. When I finally opened the throttle to make the turn, the bike died. Tried to re-start, and nothing. At all. Still had lights and stuff, but no clicks, no nothing.

Checked radiator fluid; ok. After about 30 minutes, tried starting the bike - nothing, just the relay clicks. Jump-started the battery and kept the rpms above 2800 (good lesson learned there), but when I went to open the throttle, the bike died again and wouldn't restart (no relay clicks this time). Voltmeter showed the battery a little low (11.50 or so), so I tried letting it charge up longer. Same deal - open throttle, stop engine. Jumped it one more time and pulled the pos terminal off the battery and the bike died. Another helpful biker said that that was an indication of a bad voltage regulator...but then he said maybe it was the stator.

At present, I've got the battery on a charger, but after 17 hours, the light on the charger is indicating "red" (meaning I'm not back up to 12 v).

ANyone have an idea as to what may have happened to my bike? I had ridden it over 80 miles on Friday without any trouble; and it was 54 miles up the The Berg, no trouble...until I got caught up in traffic.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I bought a voltmeter/ohmmeter, so I'm ready to test any and everything...

Thanks!

Cindy Robins
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-09-2006, 03:42 PM
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Sounds to me like you lost your battery!! I lost a cell on mine and what a nightmare ride home!! Batteries that lose a cell will not take a charge...and bike will run like S**T, if at all. check that out first.... if you can afford it.. get the MF battery that they rave about here, I have not done that yet as my battery is still good... knock on wood!! if that does not fix it then check out the rest of the charging system.

1980 440LTD
1976 KZ900
1995 VN750 19,500 miles ( start of '08 season ) All mine!
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