Easyest way to pull the R/R - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-22-2010, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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Easyest way to pull the R/R

Does the battery box need to come out? I was looking at it tired last night and I couldn't figure any other way

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-22-2010, 09:52 AM
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If you are enough of a contortionist to reach the bolts, and have the right tools, it can come out with the box installed. But it might be quicker and less frustrating to just pull the box, or start taking thing off of it till you can access the R/R.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-22-2010, 10:10 AM
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fastest way.... remove battery...take your trusty drimmal tool.. grind R/R bolts off (they are rusted anyway)... R/R will drop right off!
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-22-2010, 10:18 AM
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If you remove the splash guard that bolts to the fender you can reach the bolts a bit easier with a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket with a cheater pipe on the ratchet because as clock said they get rusted in there. Lots of penetrating oil will free them up tho. If the bolts break off will be a good excuse to relocate it or they can be gotten out from the top I believe.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-22-2010, 11:20 AM
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Post R/R Removal

I removed the spash guard just forward of the rear fender and deflated the rear tire. The forward bolt on the R/R is easier to get to with just the side cover removed.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-22-2010, 02:08 PM
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Like someone said above, just take out the battery and drill or dremmel off the welded on nuts and the r/r will be loose. You're not going to put it back there anyway, plus if you or a future owner wanted to put it back, the holes will still be there and a fresh set of nuts and bolts will be easy to put on (easy might not be the right word here!). You aren't going to drill through the r/r so I don't know why anyone would go through the trouble of trying to get to and remove the bolts instead of drilling them out or grinding them off... Took me about 4 minutes to remove the r/r on my 750 to get started on the relocation.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-22-2010, 03:12 PM
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Or you could leave it as backup and buy a new one for the outside.

2011 Suzuki VSTROM DL650 with ABS Purchased Jan 28 now with 39,000miles WRECKED JAN 12 ,2013
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-22-2010, 06:32 PM
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Install a set of V&H's and then it's easy.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-22-2010, 06:57 PM
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I used fergy's guide at http://pages.tstar.net/~fergy/writeu..._relocate.html for my R/R relocate, but chose not to dremel/drill it out. I just unbolted the box from the frame at the top, which gave me enough wiggle room to get my little ratchet in there and just turn the bolts out.

I'm a bit OCD about not making permanent mods on any of my vehicles (even when nobody could ever possibly want to return an upgrade to stock), so the few extra minutes it took to loosen the box and remove the bolts was worth it to me. My bike was maintained very well, so all the bolts came right out for me. If the battery leaked or there were other issues, it might not be quite as easy.


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Originally Posted by KIMMERLING View Post
Or you could leave it as backup and buy a new one for the outside.
I like this idea too. I'm a "while you're in there..." guy and tend to be overprepared. Going with a new R/R probably isn't a bad idea, plus leaving the stocker there could come in handy if you ever ran into R/R problems out on the road.


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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-22-2010, 08:05 PM
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or use this...http://roadstercycle.com/.. and do a relocate... you wont regret it!.. bost your elect. and run what ever you want off it!
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