Have a definite symptom on the electrical. - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-08-2010, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Have a definite symptom on the electrical.

Just got my bike back after a carb job and it's running good but the voltages begin to break down after about 20 minutes of riding. Then you better be near the house. I knew this problem awaited me when I got the bike back.

This time the turn single was almost stalling the engine. The turn signal blinks and the motor gets pulled down to almost stop and go. Hope it's the regulator gonna order one now.

'01 Vulcan 750
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-08-2010, 06:35 PM
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Check the AC voltage between all 3 of the yellow stator output wires in combinations ab, ac, and bc. I think you should get about 50-70 VAC from each combo at 4-5K+ rpm. If you do have good AC voltage but low battery voltage, that should confirm the you need the reg/rectifier.

Here is a link with more info on the tests.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthrea...tor+check+test

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html

Last edited by OlHossCanada; 08-08-2010 at 07:29 PM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Checked the ohm readings on the R/R as per Clymers and they were bad. Just got a new R/R and temporarily located it on the left side in the wind. The bike idled a little better and after about a 20 min ride I got back to house, shut the engine down. I was able to restart the engine with no problem which with the old R/R wasn't possible because the battery would be too weak after that kind of ride.

There was a quirk. The right turn signal blinked more rapidly than before while the right signal blinked normally.

Also, in spite of the R/R being exposed to the wind it got quite warm leading me to believe that the R/R just needs it's own AC. That thing cooks on its own. Is there an after market heat sink for the R/R? I can't imagine relocating the R/R without mounting it flat on a hunk of metal.

'01 Vulcan 750
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 04:50 PM
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The R/R does get quite hot, even on one thats is good Shape. If you can find a small heat sink it can be mounted with the R/R. I found some ribbed aluminum plates cut it down and made my own hear sink for the R/R. Just need some longer bolts to bolt it all together.

2004 25,500 miles
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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I use to work in an electronics R&D lab and they had a paste in a tube used for applying to the undersides of heat sinks or the components. Don't remember what it was called. Maybe it was "heat sink paste".

Time to surf the web.

Here it is: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/cpu/char/coolCompound-c.html

'01 Vulcan 750
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Last edited by hctublerub; 08-25-2010 at 07:55 PM. Reason: research
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hctublerub View Post
I use to work in an electronics R&D lab and they had a paste in a tube used for applying to the undersides of heat sinks or the components. Don't remember what it was called. Maybe it was "heat sink paste".

Time to surf the web.

Here it is: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/cpu/char/coolCompound-c.html
"Thermal grease" is the bedding compound used to connect most computer CPUs to there heat sinks (I use to build all my PCs). It provides heat conductivity between two surfaces and is usually available in small amounts for any online shop that sells computer components. Note: usually sold in gram weight, you may need more than 1 tubes to compensate for the size of the R/R. The grease is pretty thin, so I'm not sure how well it will hold up to rain/water.


Chris Glennon - Portland, OR
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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When I was working in the R&D lab it was back in the 80's building mother boards using the 8086, 8088, and 8087 math coprocessor. Built a few analog ECM stuff, too. Don't miss it.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hctublerub View Post
When I was working in the R&D lab it was back in the 80's building mother boards using the 8086, 8088, and 8087 math coprocessor. Built a few analog ECM stuff, too. Don't miss it.
Still a great suggestion hctublerub! Thermal grease is a great addition to remove the heat generated from the R/R!


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-26-2010, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Heat Sinks

Submitted for just the idea. There are other websites out there for heat sinks.

This is one with possibilities:

http://www.coolinnovations.com/?gcli...FQXt7Qodblwftw

'01 Vulcan 750
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