cooling fan amperage - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-26-2010, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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cooling fan amperage

First off let me tell you about my electrical system. I have an exide supercrank sc30lfa 28ah 445cca battery a tpe rebuilt stator and a shindengen fh012aa r/r. That being said when my cooling fan runs for a while my voltage begins to drop I know electric motors can build up resistance over time and draw more current. I am going to test my fans amperage draw with a dmm and an old car battery this afternoon and was wondering if anyone else had ever checked this or if their voltage drops this dramatically with the fan on. It draws enough current that i have to bump the idle up to keep it running.


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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-26-2010, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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Alright I took an old car battery and hooked it up to the cooling fan with my dmm in series. the reading after 10 mins was 3.5A that doesn't seem to off to me. So I am at a loss here


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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 05:04 PM
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What else is involved with this circuit? Is there a power relay signaled by the coolant temp sensor? Is there a way to test the draw while the fan is on the bike without an auxillary power source? Since the motor draw is within what seems a reasonable range, something else is drawing power that occurs when the fan comes on.
I will try to locate a wiring diagram.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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I have a diagram I just havent had time to pick it apart yet


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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 07:06 PM
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The fan motor draws power through the JB Fan Relay. The Relay Coils are activated by the coolant sensor making ground. In stock form, nothing else is on the circut exept the AUX Fuse. do you have any accessories wired up, and if so, what are they and how are they wired
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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nope just the basics I only even have 1 taillamp bulb


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TPE stator
Exide sc30lfa Battery 28ah 445cca
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2001 HD fatboy solo seat
Custom taillight & rear turn signals
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 10:59 PM
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Check the wiring harness for worn spots up by the neck...
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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thats what I'm thinking
I may just eliminate the factory wiring for the fan completely, I already have for the coils, horns, r/r, taillight, and rear turnsignals


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Keep the shiny side up
coastered
de-goat and baffles removed
jetted 42-150 2 shims
Earshaved with unifilters
inside of tank coated
spline lube
long Beach Blue Pearl Paint 4/07
Shindengen FH012AA r/r
TPE stator
Exide sc30lfa Battery 28ah 445cca
Saddlemen saddlebags
2001 HD fatboy solo seat
Custom taillight & rear turn signals
Fergy's coil relay mod
Fiamm El-Grande high/low tone horns
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-31-2010, 04:30 AM
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That 3.5A sounds about right. Since it was so easy to measure, I checked mine and got about 3.7A.

It should be quite easy to measure the whole current draw of the fan circuit (including the fan relay). Just remove the main fuse and connect the ammeter in it's place. Then ground either the wire coming to the fan switch at the bottom left corner of the radiator or pin 4 of the JB 10-pin connector. This switches the fan on.

If the current draw is not much higher than the fan only, then you have to start looking elsewhere.

Did you mean that the engine stops with fan on unless you raise the idle revs, or that only the voltage drops at idle? If it's only the voltage, I don't think you have anything wrong - the fan takes as much power as the headlight.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-31-2010, 09:14 AM
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I was out on a ride yesterday in hot weather and traffic - stop and go crap - the worst type of riding for our vn charging systems. My fan was cycling on and off for about 20 minutes while trying to make it to country roads. My RPMs dipped slightly each time it came on so I turned up the idle to 1500 RPM until I was clear of the traffic mess.

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