AGM batteries fry stators - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
engine89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 60
iTrader: (0)
 
AGM batteries fry stators

Has there been discussion about the possibility that agm batteries fry stators by generating excess heat in the R/R and stator? I just put an agm in my 1990. The headlight is brighter even at low idle and the system has at least 14 volts even at idle. IF the stator keeps cranking out power and it has no place to go, it gets stored as heat. I think I the clock is now ticking for my stator even with the r/r relocation.
engine89 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 09:03 AM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
fergy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Kyle, Texas
Posts: 4,054
iTrader: (3)
   
I bought my 750 in early 06 and it already had an AGM battery in it, no idea how old. I finally replaced it in early 09 just because it was at least 3 years old, (I'd had it for 3 years) and obviously older and I just felt like I should replace it before it started having any trouble. Put another AGM in the bike and it is still running fine, knock on wood. Never had any stator problems with it, and it has been in Central Texas all it's life, 100+ degree summers and all. I did re-locate my r/r in mid 06. Maybe I got lucky with a good stator, or maybe relocating the r/r truly made some difference in how the electrical components survive--I don't know.

In my opinion, using a wet cell battery puts a strain on the electrical system, and replacing it with an AGM battery (and possibly relocating your r/r) gives your electrical system a "breather".

Fergy
Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart
SEAFOAM JUNKIE!


fergy is offline  
post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 09:06 AM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
flitecontrol's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 4,696
iTrader: (14)
 
You could try one of the replacement R/Rs FWIW. Reports are they don't get hot. Thread here in electrical section.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
flitecontrol is offline  
 
post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 09:11 AM
Senior Member
 
baldy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: St. Albans, Maine
Posts: 796
iTrader: (0)
 
A new battery will show higher volts but I don't believe it will hurt anything. Heat and over whellming the stator and r/r will cause problems in the long run, RE; adding more lights and electrical equipment. If you have 14v at idle I would think that your electrical system is working great!

01' VN750
Jardine cross over exaust
Kyriakin grips and foot pegs
Modified seat and backrest
Windshield
Luggage rack
Crash bar with Kyriakin pegs and extensions
Kumho 758 165/80-15 CT rear Dunlop 404 110/90-19 front
Coastered and air/fuel screws at 2.5 turns
Spline lube

93' VN750 getting TLC
Decals and mirrors
Coastered and air/fuel screws at 2.5 turns
ACCTs to MCCTs
Degoated with Harley mufflers
Duro 110-90-19 front 150-90-15 rear
Pick-up coils at .020
Spline lube
baldy is offline  
post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
engine89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 60
iTrader: (0)
 
I'm not an engineer but it seems to me if the stator puts out power at a steady rate and it has no place to go heat will be generated if the battery is pushing power back.
engine89 is offline  
post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 01:53 PM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
flitecontrol's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 4,696
iTrader: (14)
 
Not an engineer either, but my understanding is the stator's AC output goes directly to the R/R, gets converted to DC, what's needed is sent to the charging/electrical system, and the excess is dissipated as heat by the R/R. Nothing goes "back" to the stator, at least not if the system is working as it should.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
flitecontrol is offline  
post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
engine89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 60
iTrader: (0)
 
So then a weaker battery or extra lights would be better for the system, more power burned off thus less heat in the R/R . I wish I had checked the temp. of the R/R prior to and then after the battery change.

Last edited by engine89; 07-23-2010 at 02:11 PM.
engine89 is offline  
post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 02:11 PM
Old Fart
 
Knifemaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Catawissa, MO
Posts: 11,577
iTrader: (4)
     
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by engine89 View Post
I'm not an engineer but it seems to me if the stator puts out power at a steady rate and it has no place to go heat will be generated if the battery is pushing power back.
And there it is....lol

Batteries do not "push power back" .The R/R is supposed to handle excess power, and it does...without sending it back to the stator.

Stators fail for many reasons, but using an efficiant high end batttery is not one of them. The stator by the way does not put out a "steady rate" of power, it actually fluctuates depending on engine speed.

A good stator , puts out 13.7-14.6 volts (after being switched to DC by the R/R) , regardless of what battery you use. The R/R grounds out excess power if need be to the frame, which causes it to get hot...by design...but many still relocate their R/R as it just seems to be in a bad place. If you somehow fry out your R/R it can damage your stator... but most times stators go first. Your R/R is more likely to fry itself due to a bad or shorted out battery than one that actually can take more power...meaning your thinking here is backwards.


KM

If You Are Not Sure If I Am Joking or Not....I AM !!Photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/knifemaker1954/sets/

Last edited by Knifemaker; 07-23-2010 at 02:14 PM.
Knifemaker is offline  
post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 02:14 PM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
fergy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Kyle, Texas
Posts: 4,054
iTrader: (3)
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by engine89 View Post
So then a weaker battery or extra lights would be better for the system, more power burned off thus less heat in the R/R .
Logically, that makes sense, but I feel like there is more to know about how an r/r works before we could agree on that! I'll bet there is a diode built in to the battery output of the r/r that only allows current to flow toward the battery and not in the opposite direction--just guessing, with my limited knowledge of electronics. Somehow, my guess would be that the larger portion of the heat generated by the r/r is from the conversion of AC current to DC voltage, and the unused energy is a small portion of the heat generated--again my guess. For instance, if you notice, most power adapters will stay relatively cool while plugged into the wall, if nothing is attached to the business end, but once you plug it into the device it is providing and converting power for, it will get several times hotter while in use. I know it is a bad example, but it's all I can come up with!

Fergy
Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart
SEAFOAM JUNKIE!


fergy is offline  
post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-23-2010, 02:16 PM
Senior Member
 
clock152's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Glenpool, Oklahoma
Posts: 900
iTrader: (1)
 
I'm pretty sure that the exess power is diverted to the seats butt hammers (buttons) to help maintain a constant discomfort level...I might be wrong though.
clock152 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome