I think I'm in trouble. - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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I think I'm in trouble.

I was riding in to work today when my bike suddenly died at a stop sign. When I tried to restart it, the battery wouldn't crank and appeared to be dead. After letting the bike cool down I tried again and still had the same problem. The engine turned over once but did not start. It was acting like the same way it was before I switched to an AGM battery. The battery has been on my Battery Tender for quite some time now and it still isn't fully charged. Does this mean my charging system is shot? Or do I have a power draw somewhere. One thing I've been noticing is that the headlight won't always turn on when I start it. I'll have to turn the ignition on and off a few times before I try to start it before the light turns on after I release the starter button. Don't know if that's related but I figured it might help. I'm worried I may need a new Stator....

1994 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 named Jinba Ittai (Japanese for "Horse and rider in perfect harmony").
Jardine Pipes
Splines Lubricated
Painted Instrument Bezels
Headlight Visor
Chrome engine guard
Leather Fork Bag (contents: Pressure gauge, tools, and a Book of Psalms)
Yuaso MF AGM Motocross battery
Kenda Kruz Front tire
Duro Boulevard rear tire

"Buy the ticket, take the ride."
-Hunter S. Thompson
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 01:04 PM
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I would start with the simple stuff first. Check the battery connections; I'm pretty sure the battery, if good, should take a charge regardless of the condition of the electrical system. The charger is connected directly to it. Did the light on the charger indicate that it was charging?

2004 VN750 "Rosanna"
Acquired March 6, 2010

Done:
NGK Iridium Plugs
NGK Caps
Big Crank ETX15L AGM Battery
Battery Tender Jr. w/Pigtail
Marbled
Rear Spline Lubed
Front Spine/U-Joint Lubed
Metzeler ME 880's
Brake Fluid Flushed, Filled, and Bled
Saddlemen Studded Saddlebags and Tank Bib
Installed 12 Volt Power Outlet
Debaffled
R/R Relocated flightcontrol Style

Pending
N/A... I'm Going Ridin'
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 04:18 PM
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testing your charging system is pretty easy, if you can get your bike started. Pull off the seat to expose the battery- start your bike, while running, put your volt meter on the pos/negative terminals- meter should read 13+ volts- this would charge your battery. Anything under 12 volts and your running an electrical deficit- using your volts faster than you are putting them in...

hope this helps!
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Yes the light on my battery tender is indicating that the battery is charging. The battery took a solid 20 hours to charge. I'll try hooking up my voltmeter. Does the bike need to be at a certain RPM to charge?

1994 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 named Jinba Ittai (Japanese for "Horse and rider in perfect harmony").
Jardine Pipes
Splines Lubricated
Painted Instrument Bezels
Headlight Visor
Chrome engine guard
Leather Fork Bag (contents: Pressure gauge, tools, and a Book of Psalms)
Yuaso MF AGM Motocross battery
Kenda Kruz Front tire
Duro Boulevard rear tire

"Buy the ticket, take the ride."
-Hunter S. Thompson
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 05:04 PM
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the charging rate is as fallows... idle 12.5 to 13 volts... 1500 rpm 13- 13.5 volts- 2500 rpm 13.5-14 volts, 5000 rpm 14.5 volts... that is at the battery

Stator test.

Disconnect the three stator leg wires... test continutity between each wire and ground (none should be present)
next test AC voltage between each three legs
A1-A2, A1-A3, A2-A3 AC Voltage should be around 70 VAC

Post back your findings... and if all that tests out good, I will post the idiots guide to troubleshooting the R/R... (the book is very confusing and gets mixed results. I have an R/R that according to the book is junk, but it is charging my bike just fine through all the rpm ranges.
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VulcRider24 View Post
Does the bike need to be at a certain RPM to charge?
Yep, see Slim's post for the RPMs. It's worth noting that a fully-charged 12v battery is really 12.7v. Anything much below that and your bike will have trouble starting. So if you're in stop-and-go traffic and just idling at 1100-1500rpm, the battery is just ticking away it's little electrons and not getting anything in return.

That being said, 20 hours to charge a battery sounds like an awfully long time. Can you take it back to the store where you bought it and have them test it?

C
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 05:24 PM
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It sounds an awful lot like a bad battery. It happens, some right out of the box and others go bad quickly. It's worth having it load tested. Of course, any battery will lose its charge eventually if it isn't being charged on the bike, so it makes sense to check your charging system too.

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Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I just did the test by placing leads on the battery and I am reading no charge at any rpm. I tested from idle to about 4 or 5 grand. The voltage stayed at about 12-13v and did not change when I shut the bike off.

I did notice that the metal strap that holds the battery in place has snapped off and fell out of the bike, so the battery is free to shake and rattle around. Could this damage the battery? Check my signature for more info about it, I purchased it last summer and had it on a battery tender all winter.

Also, I am not very good with electrics, so if you could tell me where I can find the wires I am supposed to test that would be a huge help. Am I going to have to tear into the engine to do any of these tests?

1994 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 named Jinba Ittai (Japanese for "Horse and rider in perfect harmony").
Jardine Pipes
Splines Lubricated
Painted Instrument Bezels
Headlight Visor
Chrome engine guard
Leather Fork Bag (contents: Pressure gauge, tools, and a Book of Psalms)
Yuaso MF AGM Motocross battery
Kenda Kruz Front tire
Duro Boulevard rear tire

"Buy the ticket, take the ride."
-Hunter S. Thompson
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 09:26 PM
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you dont have to tear into it to test it, but someone else will have to help you on the tests. I did as they said but it was all greek to me. I took mine to a shop (not a dealer) to diagnose it for me, it was my stator, but I replaced it myself in two days and saved 400 bucks. cost me about 225 to replace it. hopefully yours is good though.

1986 vn 750 aka "Huck Farley"
42,000 miles
Rick's stator and rr
Tuxedo stator cover mod
pickup coil mod
dampers replaced
agm m/f battery
Harley sportster exhaust, degoated
Hid conversion
splines lubed
custom "vn750.com" grill cover
NGK Iridium spark plugs


acct to mcct mod https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917

rekeying locks, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7309

stator replacement walkthrough, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11369
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 10:34 PM
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You said that the headlight sometimes does not work? I had the same problem and it was the stator. Definately do the charging system tests.


"The Mistress".
1985 VN700A1

MODS:
New stator
My version of the Marbleing
New paint and trim
New oversized front tire
Degoated
Iridium Plugs
New grip and lever covers
New(er) Ignition switch

Waiting on:
A good ride

As always:
Wanting attention at all times.


Why should I act my age, I am an ADULT!!!!!!
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