R/R relo technical help - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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R/R relo technical help

After a hard 12K miles in a year (daily commuter), my 2004 VN750's regulator/rectifier and stator fried recently (i hadn't replaced or relocated the R/R, should have heeded the warnings here).

I'm planning to relocate the R/R to near the left rear footpeg and I want to make my own bracket. My bike's sitting in the shop waiting for parts (Electrosport, both stator and R/R), so I can't measure the distance between the mounting holes in the R/R.

Can someone tell me the measurement between the bolt holes, on center? Pics of the Electrosport show slots sted of holes, so I have some wiggle room, but wanted to get the exact measurement.

Thanks,
DaveW (Tucson)
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 08:58 PM
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No need to double post (answered this in the Introduction section), but this would have been the best place to post.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-29-2010, 10:43 PM
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Relocating the R/R is something that is needed for a warmer climate? I live in Northern Ontario, its gets above 85 degrees sometimes, not on a regular basis. Is this a must for all of us? My bike currently has 35,000 miles on it and it hasn't been changed. Thanks.

1985 750 Vulcan-Red
36,875 miles
New timing chain
New choke cable
Clean front rim
new throttle pull back cable
new spark plugs
New Bridgestone on the back
New Fluids all around
SeaFoam in the tank
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-29-2010, 10:51 PM
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As I understand the rationale, it is to get the r/r away from the heat produced by the goat's belly and out in the open where it can cool more readily. If your bike has had the goat's belly removed, it may not help to relocate the r/r.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-30-2010, 08:28 AM
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I have also heard that if the stator goes first and not noticed or thinking it is just the battery and replacing that. Continuing to ride with a fresh battery and stator not working will overload the r/r?

One other reason for relocating though is the battery acid leaking out if you do not have a long enough vent tube or a leaking battery, or just get a MF battery.

01' VN750
Jardine cross over exaust
Kyriakin grips and foot pegs
Modified seat and backrest
Windshield
Luggage rack
Crash bar with Kyriakin pegs and extensions
Kumho 758 165/80-15 CT rear Dunlop 404 110/90-19 front
Coastered and air/fuel screws at 2.5 turns
Spline lube

93' VN750 getting TLC
Decals and mirrors
Coastered and air/fuel screws at 2.5 turns
ACCTs to MCCTs
Degoated with Harley mufflers
Duro 110-90-19 front 150-90-15 rear
Pick-up coils at .020
Spline lube
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-30-2010, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baldy View Post
I have also heard that if the stator goes first and not noticed or thinking it is just the battery and replacing that. Continuing to ride with a fresh battery and stator not working will overload the r/r?

One other reason for relocating though is the battery acid leaking out if you do not have a long enough vent tube or a leaking battery, or just get a MF battery.
The battery can't overload the R/R if the stator has fried.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-30-2010, 01:16 PM
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Ok cool thanks for setting me strieght lance.

01' VN750
Jardine cross over exaust
Kyriakin grips and foot pegs
Modified seat and backrest
Windshield
Luggage rack
Crash bar with Kyriakin pegs and extensions
Kumho 758 165/80-15 CT rear Dunlop 404 110/90-19 front
Coastered and air/fuel screws at 2.5 turns
Spline lube

93' VN750 getting TLC
Decals and mirrors
Coastered and air/fuel screws at 2.5 turns
ACCTs to MCCTs
Degoated with Harley mufflers
Duro 110-90-19 front 150-90-15 rear
Pick-up coils at .020
Spline lube
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-30-2010, 03:52 PM
CBH
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When installing a volt meter, what does it enable you to do? What are you looking for and whats happens when you find it? If that makes sense.

1985 750 Vulcan-Red
36,875 miles
New timing chain
New choke cable
Clean front rim
new throttle pull back cable
new spark plugs
New Bridgestone on the back
New Fluids all around
SeaFoam in the tank
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-30-2010, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBH View Post
When installing a volt meter, what does it enable you to do? What are you looking for and whats happens when you find it? If that makes sense.
It lets you keep an eye on the battery voltage, so if the voltage drops and keeps dropping you know you have a charging problem when it is actually happening and not when the bike suddenly stops running.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-30-2010, 05:08 PM
CBH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
It lets you keep an eye on the battery voltage, so if the voltage drops and keeps dropping you know you have a charging problem when it is actually happening and not when the bike suddenly stops running.
Ahhh...ok, that makes sense. Thank you

1985 750 Vulcan-Red
36,875 miles
New timing chain
New choke cable
Clean front rim
new throttle pull back cable
new spark plugs
New Bridgestone on the back
New Fluids all around
SeaFoam in the tank
CBH is offline  
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