Engine Quits While Riding - Summary of Reasons? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Quits While Riding - Summary of Reasons?

Hi all, being new to this forum, I've spent hours studying and cross referencing all of the great knowledge here. You folks are very thorough and have really provided a great knowledge base for all types of DIYers.

I've been having a problem that I mentioned in a couple of threads with the bike just quitting while on a ride but the main dash lights and running lights are still on. No sputter, no warning, no consistent time or length of ride etc. Most times the start button wont engage the starter at all, but after a few seconds works fine. I can duplicate this on its center stand in the garage.

I shook every wire, opened and cleaned every connector I could get to (poked the ones I could barely reach) , replaced the clutch switch, cleaned & adjusted springs and contacts of Run/Off Switch as well as the hockey puck as described here in the forum, lubed the kick stand plunger, cleaned the gas cap & vent system, but still have the problem. Oh, and tripple checked all of the grounds. They are very tight and seem clean although I didn't take them apart to clean them. (maybe I should).

Just: *Piff* (quit) , *swear*, *coast to safety*, *swear some more...*...

SOOOO. Sort of a loose poll here --CAN the J/B have a diode or relay that is flaky? I've thumped the J/B all over too while it's running to no avail...

My electrical skills aren't too great. I'm afraid that if I do the wrong thing, I'll ignite like Ghost Rider going down the road!!

Last edited by crieke; 05-27-2010 at 03:16 PM. Reason: Horrible typing skills....
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 02:48 PM
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Too bad cleaning the ignition switch didn't fix it. All the solder points looked good? What's the year and how many miles on the bike?
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Too bad cleaning the ignition switch didn't fix it. All the solder points looked good? What's the year and how many miles on the bike?
1998, 14k miles. The solder joints looked OK to me--I wiggled each wire
slightly to see if there was a loose one and all seemed tight. I didn't try to wiggle them with it running with the hockey puck bottom off though. Is that how you check for a cold solder? Would the joint still look and feel tight?
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-29-2010, 08:48 AM
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I don't have a lot of experience with broken solder joints. The ones I've seen looked detached. I suppose if you have a multi meter you could run a continuity test but it seems like the problem is somewhere else. Oh yeah, the white wire that has two solder connections is ussually the one people find a problem with.

There is a similar problem being talked about in this thread: https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14789

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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-29-2010, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I don't have a lot of experience with broken solder joints. The ones I've seen looked detached. I suppose if you have a multi meter you could run a continuity test but it seems like the problem is somewhere else. Oh yeah, the white wire that has two solder connections is ussually the one people find a problem with.

There is a similar problem being talked about in this thread: https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14789


I can get to the wiring connectors up at the neck held by that metal loom including the ignition switch connector without taking the tank off and I've cleaned and checked all of them. Are there any more deeper under the tank that I can check? Last night I pulled the headlight out and checked all of those connections in their and I even took the hockey puck apart while it was running and jiggled each wire. Can't make it quit running when I want to!
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-29-2010, 02:35 PM
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Ground the black/white wire coming to pin 14 of the JB 10-pin connector and see if it helps. This bill bypass the safety diodes in the JB and keeps the IC igniter happy.
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-29-2010, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Ground the black/white wire coming to pin 14 of the JB 10-pin connector and see if it helps. This bill bypass the safety diodes in the JB and keeps the IC igniter happy.
I'll try that today. Do I do that by exposing the wire and jump it to ground somewhere but NOT actually unhooking it from the J/B cause its integrated into the connector right?

So, there are safety diodes IN the J/B? Can one of them be flaky and cause the engine to quit like the side stand or clutch switch is activated?
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-29-2010, 06:32 PM
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the side stand switch could be flakey.. the clutch switch won't kill the engine.. in fact the opposite..if the clutch switch were to be acting up you wouldn't get the bike to start... hen the clutch lever is in the normal position it makes contact with ground which supplies the ignition with power. if it goes open, then the ignition would only have power when in neutral. try disconnecting the side stand switch, and making a jumper wire to jump the connector on the main wiring harness side. if the problem goes away... then its the side stand switch.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-29-2010, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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So just make a wire jumper to connect BOTH pins in the harness-end of the side stand switch wires?
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-29-2010, 07:15 PM
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yup thats it.
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