Hey, Jerry.... - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Hey, Jerry....

I gather from an earlier thread that out of at least 3 Vulcan 750s you've had, you have yet to have a stator failure, despite each having to cope with brutal Arizona summertime temps. Correct me if this is wrong.

If true, I thought everyone else (including myself) would like to know what (if anything unique) you're doing to account for this--that's pretty neat.


Also: you got rid of your Memphis Shades windshield on your VN750. What make/model windshield did you replace it with (if any)...???


Thanks in advance for the feedback.....

'05 VN750



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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 04:25 PM
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stator

I agree. I would like to know...i have relocated the r/r. Upgraded batt. Anything secret?

2011 Suzuki VSTROM DL650 with ABS Purchased Jan 28 now with 39,000miles WRECKED JAN 12 ,2013
"To strive, to seek, to find, not to yield."
05 Vulcan 750 26,050miles *Traded in*
Ventura guards
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Givi windshield/Heated grips
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 07:08 PM
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Other than a maintenance free battery when they became available, I haven't done anything. The electrical is all stock. I do unplug and clean the 3 bullet connectors from the stator and soak them in WD40 every few months. A long time ago on another bike, I noticed that the insulation on the wires on both sides of these connectors had hardened, apparently from heat. I found slight corrosion on the connectors, and figured the heat was caused by high resistance in the connectors. Ive been doing this on my current bike since new, and haven't noticed any problems. I thought about soldering the wires, but didn't realy see how that would help as long as the connectors were kept clean and tight. The only electrical accessory I have ever used is a pair of electric gloves, but I don't use them often. On my current bike I have been using a battery tender for quite a while.

I replaced the Memphis Shades Harley style windshield with a Memphis Shades "Shooter". This is a universal shield only available in one size, but it fits the Vulcan perfectly. It doesn't cause the severe buffeting and high speed instability that the much larger Harley style shield caused. Memphis Shades makes very high quality stuff, their windshields make the Kawasaki V Force shield look like cheap junk. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 11:50 PM
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Hey Jerry, any pics?

Rubyrick

MY BABY...
'05 VN750
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Kawi tank bib
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DEKA M/F battery
VN750.com Grill Cover
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Clear Alternatives LED brake light
Cortech mini tank bag on rear rack
Pirelli MT66 Tires: 110 front / 150 rear
Splines lubed when tires installed at 10,650 miles
Splines lubed again at 14,400 with stubby valve stem install

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 09:14 AM
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There are some posted on the Vulcan 750 Yahoo Group forum, but I will try and get around to taking some more and posting them here, as there have been a few changes since those were taken. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
I do unplug and clean the 3 bullet connectors from the stator and soak them in WD40 every few months. A long time ago on another bike, I noticed that the insulation on the wires on both sides of these connectors had hardened, apparently from heat. I found slight corrosion on the connectors, and figured the heat was caused by high resistance in the connectors.
This was a problem for me too. I caught it in time to save my stator. I may rewire these leads and use a different connector sometime soon.

Jerry, the stator is oil cooled. Do you think an oil cooler would help? I do fill my case with 4L of (20-50) oil - many here disagree with that but I haven't had any problems (done so for 9 years). My thoughts are low oil level = hot stator.

DT

95 VN750 (eBay)31k+
GL1100 front fender
OEM engine guard
OEM high back rest
'V-Twin' HWY pegs
Black 750 Spectre handlebars
SunPro Volt Meter (Amazon)
Maier bug shield (JCW)
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Emgo air filters
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R/R Relocate
Dry Splines Lubed
AGM DieHard-Sears
Gutted Goat
Sporster XL Mufflers
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Pickup coil mod to .45mm
Silverstar headlight
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Last edited by dirtrack650; 03-02-2010 at 12:48 PM.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 02:22 PM
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I have no proof of this, and no real evidence, beyond the slightly burned wires, but I get the idea that there may be a problem with high resistance, in the stator, or something the stator connects to. I believe if there is a problem, it is an electrical issue. I ride in 120 degree weather in the summer, and the coolant temp gauge gets close to the hot side. I use synthetic 20w50 oil to help protect the engine, but that has no effect on the stator. There is nothing fundamentally wrong with the bullet type connector, as long as it is clean, tight, and connected properly. The wire itself is small enough that it would have more resistance than the connectors. I also don't believe normal heat from riding the bike is hurting the R/R, though internal high resistance in it could be a problem. That is why I never relocated mine. Stators can fail, from no obvious reason, as can any other electrical device. There always IS a reason, but it cannot always be determined. Unlike mechanical parts, electrical parts don't usually leave tell tale signs.


So again, my best guess, and that's all it is, is that output from the stator is encountering abnormally high resistance somewhere in the system. It could be the bullet connectors, but it could be a number of other things as well, or it might be several things combined. That's assuming there is even a problem. What attracted so much attention to the Vulcan 750 stator is how hard it is to replace. Some people have had repeated stator failures in a short time. But, were they using oem stators, or some other brand? And are other brands better or worse than oem? What about rewound oem?

Right now, I will just keep checking those bullet connectors, keep my battery charged, and replace it at the first sign of problems. It's all I know to do. I will replace the stator if it fails, probably with oem or rewound oem.

People have found burned wires on bad stators. Remember, burned wires are a sure sign of high resistance, but it doesn't have to be just where the wires are burned. High resistance further down the line can also cause burned wires closer to the stator, if they are smaller, and normally have higher resistance. Remember, the smaller the wire, the higher the resistance. Adding a bunch of accessories, like running lights or stereo equipment could also cause high resistance, but assuming this stuff is fused, the fuse should blow before damaging the stator. Again that is "should". A lot of things to do with electricity do not always behave as they "should". That is why I have only addressed the one issue I actually found, and have not gone on a wild goose chase trying to find and correct the reason stators are failing. IMO, it would just be an exercise in frustration, and could even make things worse. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-03-2010, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtrack650 View Post
Jerry, the stator is oil cooled. Do you think an oil cooler would help? I do fill my case with 4L of (20-50) oil - many here disagree with that but I haven't had any problems (done so for 9 years). My thoughts are low oil level = hot stator.

DT
Extra oil may help cool the engine, and the stator, but the stator is inadequately cooled. I built a glass inspection cover to observe the stator in action and there is very little oil circulating in there - a mere mist puffed up into the flywheel area.

Here's a previous suggestion of how to add an external oil cooling line to the stator. Simply tee off of the HLA supply tube, or add a tee under the oil pressure sensor and tap into the ignition inspection cover.

Oil-cooled stator

I'd really like to see someone try this. I added the tubing internally and haven't had any discoloration of the stator windings in four years of monitoring it.

Darrel
'03 Vulcan 750 (90k miles)
-Corbin Seat
-V-Force Windshield
-LeatherLyke Touring Bags
-Chrome Luggage Rack
-Headlight Modulator
-Brakelight Flasher
-MF Battery
-Heads-Up Voltage Monitor
-Replaced Stator (9,000 and 16,000 mi.)
-Oil-cooled Stator Mod (photos)
-Replaced and Relocated R/R
-Greased rear splines
-Fused Stator (photos)
-Metzeler ME880 Marathon 170/80-15 (Rear), 110/90-19 (Front)
-TOC MCCTs installed
-Headlight Relays
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-05-2010, 12:17 AM
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I just ran into 2 problems today. First, while unplugging the bullet connectors, one of them broke off. The wire was brittle, probably due to heat. I went ahead and cut them all off, stripped the insulation off all 6 yellow wires about 1/4", twist connected them back together, in the same way as you were going to use a wire nut on them, then soldered them. I put dielectric grease on the joint, slipped short pieces of clear tubing over each one, then tied all 3 together with a zip tie, so they couldn't come off. The clear tubing allows me to see the connections.


The second problem is an oil leak where the 2 black wires go into the stator cover. For 3,000 miles, it has had a minor oil leak, which dripped off the drain plug. I thought it was the drain plug leaking, because I hadn't changed the o-ring in a long time. But I recently changed the oil, replaced the o-ring with a new one, and noticed it was still leaking. So I looked a little closer. I used contact cleaner to clean off all the oil from the area, then started the engine. In less than a minute, oil started seeping out from around the wires, and running down the engine case. I've never had the stator cover off, so I don't really know what kind of seal is in there, I would assume some kind of grommet. But if oil can get out, other stuff, like water, can get in. I'll probably clean the area real good with contact cleaner, which won't hurt oil, and try and seal it with silicone.


So far, the stator is still working fine, but I did notice that the wires that come out of the stator cover, and go through the crevices in the engine case down under the engine and back up behind the front bevel gear case had hardened noticeably. Again, I would suspect this is from heat, but I don't know if the wires overheated due to electrical resistance, or just heat from the engine case. I just might be about to have a stator failure. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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What other electrical connections (if any) on the bike are you routinely cleaning--and how?

Also--do you have pix of this somewhere else (besides Yahoo), like maybe Photobucket (or similar).....

Do keep us posted on the results of your above post....!

'05 VN750



For other bike pix & mods, go to:
http://s1203.photobucket.com/albums/...k/VN750%20pix/
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