is it fixed? i need help /sigh - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-06-2010, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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is it fixed? i need help /sigh

ok so i put the new regulator on this morning with a new maint free battery that i ordered from a link on here "battery mart i think," i put it all together she fired up fairly easy considering its hovers around 30 deg here. ( curse my luck for only having a car port.)

now if you remember the regulator i ordered was off a 1999 1500 classic to fit my 2006 vn750. some one said that the 1500's were interchangeable and the plugs did match up.

here is the results. with the motor off with every thing hooked up i had 12.6v at the battery. after i fired it up and it was choked to idle at 2000 rpm's i had 12.4v i let it sit like that at 2000 rpms for about 10 mins to let it warm up and get going after about 10 mins or a bit more my volts dropped to 12.10 or a hair lower. when i would rev the motor to about 4000 rpms the most i could make it jump up at the battery was .05 volts or so.

is this normal? from my understanding 11.8 is considered dead at 2000 rpms is that enough for the battery to get/hold a charge or should i wait to be able to ride it to see how it go's?

when i shut it down and tested it with the motor off again i had droped to 12.4v from 12.6 from when i 1st put the battery in.

so advice? am i testing it wrong? any thing would help right now .. i was hoping to get this thing done before we got another 8 inchs of snow today but it doesn't look like i am sadly.
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post #2 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-06-2010, 12:06 PM
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Sounds like you tested battery voltage correctly... my next question is going to be.. what did your old R/R put out? I am thinking your stator is toast, but lets try to rule every thing else out. give me a few minutes to regather my thoughts (still waiking up and in considerable amount of pain... i have a tooth problem that just won't go away)
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post #3 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-06-2010, 12:12 PM
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what is the voltage at terminal B on the r/r with key on engine off, and again through all the RPM ranges? next check voltage at terminal M through all engine rpm ranges
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post #4 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-06-2010, 01:27 PM
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the simple thing since the bike will start and run is to unplug the r/r from the stator,set your meter to ACvolts 200 volt scale,and then start the bike and check between the three yellow wires from the stator for ac voltage of 40 to 70 VAC between any and all leads of the stator if you have proper ac voltage the stator is good if there is no voltage between any of the three leads but the other two have voltage it is bad as well. if you have proper ac voltage the stator is good and you can move on to the other stuff




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post #5 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-06-2010, 02:08 PM
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When I replaced my r/r my voltage rarely goes over the high 12 and low 13. I get a good start up so I don't worry about it. I figure since I have a good batt there is less demend on the charging system. my opinion.

It seems to change when I run the extra lights, the voltage goes up.

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post #6 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-06-2010, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
When I replaced my r/r my voltage rarely goes over the high 12 and low 13. I get a good start up so I don't worry about it. I figure since I have a good batt there is less demend on the charging system. my opinion.

It seems to change when I run the extra lights, the voltage goes up.
THis is exactly why I want him to check the voltage of the Brown Wire (terminal M) if he is getting between 13 and 14.5 volts here, but only 12.x out of terminal B (white Wire) then his R/R is working... the Brown wire monitors the demand of the electrical system. so if the monitor wire shows high, but the battery wire shows low... and battery voltage is hovering around 12.5 V, then all is good... it is when the voltage drops below 12.0 Volts that I would start to worry.
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post #7 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-06-2010, 02:36 PM
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I have never checked the charging system on my Vulcan, but on most 12V systems, the voltage at the battery should be around 14-14.5 volts at the battery at any speed above idle. I have voltmeters on both my car and truck, and they both show around 14 volts. I would say you still have a problem.

I would have replaced the R/R with a new Kawasaki oem part, installed a quality AGM battery, and if the voltage above idle is still not over 12.XX volts, I would suspect the stator.


From a thread on another forum, I found that the Vulcan can be ridden several hundred miles with an inoperative stator, as long as all the lights are turned off, you have a fully charged battery, and all it is doing is powering the ignition system. If you had a battery charger and a jump starter, you could still use it for long distance commuting in the daytime. My race car has a total loss ignition system, but I also have a 20 amp charger to keep the battery charged up between runs, and to start it off of. Jerry.

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post #8 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-06-2010, 04:37 PM
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FYI Jerry, the 1500 stator and the 750 R/R are the same PN... the reason for going to a 1500 R/R is the mounting location on them makes them less suspect to failure when getting a used one.

secondly the charging system on the VN750 doe not put out a constant 14.5 volts above idle. the out put varies from 12.5 at idle to [email protected] 3500-4000 RPM... and the voltage curves in between. That is why every time some one has charging system failure, we ask that we get voltage readings at idle, 1500 rpm, 2500, and 3000-3500 rpm... then we ask for the same tests with the engine warm... we haven't asked this yet, the OP already posted his symptoms in another thread that led us to believe that the R/R was toast. and Now with the R/R replaced he is having the same problems.

IIRC I was asking you to do some checks on your JB for me... I still think your root problem is a bad relay or diode inside your junction box... its a very unlikely chance that it is the JB, but I replaced the stator, R/R, and replaced my battery, only to still have a charging problem. I replaced the JB because my headlight wasn't coming on and doing the Head Light bypassed fixed the headlight problem. So I looked at the wiring diagram of the JB and realized that while doing the HL Bypass, it removes the relay from the HL... so I replaced the JB... and what do you know... my HL worked again...and all of a sudden my Bike is charging... (while working on the charging system, I did clean the contacts on the Jb and R/R several times to eliminate that as part of the problem...

Last edited by slimvulcanrider; 02-06-2010 at 04:46 PM.
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post #9 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-07-2010, 10:22 AM
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Just a note here.. There are various types of VN1500's quite a few in fact. The important thing is that the PN matches.
Ron Ayers has a little helper on their web site that lists all of the models that a certain Part Number matches.
For example, a 1500 drifter will only fit a 1500 drifter, a 1500 Nomad however will fit a Classic, Nomad, classic FI, Nomad FI, etc. (Neither of these are listed for a VN750)

The one for the VN750 has to be the one used with the Vulcan 88 (a 1500, known as the BUBF) 1994-95 or a VN1500, 97-99.
Part number must be 21066-1089 the 1066 etc won't give you the same results even if the pins do fit.

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post #10 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-07-2010, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dianna View Post
Just a note here.. There are various types of VN1500's quite a few in fact. The important thing is that the PN matches.
Ron Ayers has a little helper on their web site that lists all of the models that a certain Part Number matches.
For example, a 1500 drifter will only fit a 1500 drifter, a 1500 Nomad however will fit a Classic, Nomad, classic FI, Nomad FI, etc. (Neither of these are listed for a VN750)

The one for the VN750 has to be the one used with the Vulcan 88 (a 1500, known as the BUBF) 1994-95 or a VN1500, 97-99.
Part number must be 21066-1089 the 1066 etc won't give you the same results even if the pins do fit.


this is what i was wondering... i might not have the right part. later today (hopefully befor the snow hits) i will get out there and run another test. i have to get my volt meter from my dads house.

in the mean time i am a cluts when it comes to electrical work at times. could you post a short step by step on how to test out the r/r witch wires to plug into and such. in laymens terms. as long as its short hand i can understand it =)

the end result im hoping it is working but if it is not im hoping i have the wrong r/r...i really dont wanna have to pull the strator. when i had it in the shop for a full electrical check they said the strator was ok but i had a dead battery and r/r but i did ride it for a while "perhaps put 75 miles on it" after i found out the r/r was dead i would just charge the battery on my home charger. and then put it in when i would ride it. ( for a few resons /broken down car and then for a toys for tots ride in town.) so im hoping i didnt put to much strain on it since the r/r was dead.

thanks a ton guys you been a big help so far.
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