got a problem - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-20-2009, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
1985 kawasaki vn700 a1
 
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Location: rock hill sc
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got a problem

hay guy i just got my new bike and was riding it the other day when i noticed a problem. my temp gage doesnt work,my fuel gage doesnt work,and i know there is a nuetral light but i cant see mine i guess maybe the bulb is bad. well i need some help if yall can let me know what to do
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-20-2009, 05:27 PM
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You need to get a service manual for your bike. Free downloadable one here:
http://www.tocmanufacturing.com/File...nd%20Parts.pdf

Clymer manual here: http://www.themotorbookstore.com/kaw70vul19.html

I will give you testing info from my Clymer manual.

Fuel Gauge Testing
1. -remove seat
2. - disconnect fuel level sensor 2 pin electrical connector (1 white/yellow and 1black/yellow wire) at the end of the fuel tank.
3. -Turn ignition switch ON.
4. - Fuel gauge should read "E".
5. - With the connector end attached to the bike (NOT the tank), use a jumper wire to momentarily touch the two wires in the connector.
The gauge should read "F". Immediately disconnect the jumper wire. (Or you risk damage to the gauge).
6. -The gauge should read "E" again with the jumper disconnected.
7. - If the reading are correct the gauge is good.
8. - If readings above are correct, then the fuel level sensor in the tank or the wiring from the sensor to the two pin connector is faulty. Inspect wiring and/or replace sensor in tank.
9. - If readings are incorrect, fuel level gauge is faulty and must be replaced.

Temperature Gauge Testing.

1. - Remove seat and tank.
2. - remove right-hand steering head cover.
3. - Disconnect yellow electrical connector from thermostat housing.
4. - Turn ignition switch "ON"
5. - Temp gauge should read "C".
6. - Attach a jumper wire to the yellow wire connector.
7. - Touch then immediately release, the jumper to a good ground, like the thermostat housing. When the jumper is connected the gauge should read "H".
8. - Gauge should read "C" again, when disconnected.
9. - If readings correct the gauge is good, but the coolant sensor may be faulty. Inspect sensor.
10. - If temp gauge reading in steps 7 & 8 are incorrect, either the gauge or the wire between the sensor and the wiring connector is faulty. Inspect wiring and/or check the coolant temp sensor.

Coolant Temperature Sensor Removal/Testing/Installation

1. - Remove tank.
2. - partially drain cooling system, just enough to lower coolant level below upper hose. this lessens spillage onto front cylinder head.
3. - Disconnect wire from sensor.
4. - Unscrew sensor from thermostat housing.

You will now need a shop thermometer that reads higher than 212*F, an ohm meter and a pan of coolant to suspend the sensor threads in while you heat it up on a stove burner. Do not let the sensor or thermometer touch the pan or the readings will not be accurate.

At room temp the ohm meter should show no continuity of the sensor, (infinite resistance) between the terminal on top and grounding it on the side.

Heat slowly to 80*C (176*F). Should be 42-62 ohms of resistance

Continue heating to 100*C (212*F). Should reduce to 22-33 ohms resistance.

turn off heat.

If sensor fails either of these tests, it must be replaced.

When cool, remove sensor from pan and apply silicone sealant to threads, install and tighten securely.
Attach connector to sensor. Make sure the connection is tight and free of oil and corrosion. (use some dielectric grease to seal and protect)
Refill cooling system.

I hope you can follow this, without benefit of pictures from the book.
Let us know what you discover from these tests.

I believe I will let someone else help you with the neutral light, as there are several connectors in the headlight bucket that must be disconnected, and the whole speedo, tach, indicator light assembly comes off.

.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html

Last edited by OlHossCanada; 09-20-2009 at 11:07 PM.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-20-2009, 08:36 PM
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Garage
if you ride till then remember. 110-120 miles get gas!

1986 vn 750 aka "Huck Farley"
42,000 miles
Rick's stator and rr
Tuxedo stator cover mod
pickup coil mod
dampers replaced
agm m/f battery
Harley sportster exhaust, degoated
Hid conversion
splines lubed
custom "vn750.com" grill cover
NGK Iridium spark plugs


acct to mcct mod https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917

rekeying locks, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7309

stator replacement walkthrough, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11369
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009, 01:08 AM
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Three simultaneous failures does not sound likely. It is more like a connection problem somewhere. Does your oil pressure warning light work? Do the horns work? Check the connectors inside the headlight bucket. Another source for this kind of symptoms is the ignition switch.
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