Stalled out after 5 miles - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-15-2009, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Stalled out after 5 miles

After Replacing my R/R and relocating it and checked the 2 grounds I hooked up a volt meter and took her down the rode for a little ride. After about 5 miles she cut off at mid throttle and would not crank. It was reading up to 12.8 at 4000 rpm and 12.1 when I hit the brake. After checking wires, fuses, and opening gas cap , nothing. I pulled a plug wire off after 12 mins and put a screw driver in it I had in pocket to see if it had a spark and it tryed to fire up. I put wire back on and didnt seem like it want to fire up. I mess with off on switch and kick stand switch and it fired up and I came back home. It held 12.8v . Just wonder if its the coil, I believe it was hitting 50 -60 ac volts on stater wires but will recheck, battery was charged over night. any ideas thanks
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-15-2009, 11:57 AM
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My ride died on me once since I got it and it was from a hose on the right ear. As it gets warm the hose seems to expand and made it slide. Pull it out a bit as to where it isn't flush against the ear. It is on the upper backside of the air filter cover. I am going to cut the end at an angle so it cant butt up against it.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-15-2009, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Test results with R/R unpluged are 50v at 3000 and 70v + at 4000 rpm tested 3 yellow wires between them are .9 ohms on each set. and finally .9 .4 and 1.0 to ground say it ant so....
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-15-2009, 12:56 PM
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The reason it just died on you, more than likely one of the safety switches. I am geussing the stand safety. I has happen to me before. Spray WD or what ever you use into the switch and work it.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-16-2009, 03:15 AM Thread Starter
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12.8 - 12.0 Is what was reading straight off the battery. I was going to give her another try tomorrow thanks.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-20-2009, 01:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterPister View Post
My ride died on me once since I got it and it was from a hose on the right ear. As it gets warm the hose seems to expand and made it slide. Pull it out a bit as to where it isn't flush against the ear. It is on the upper backside of the air filter cover. I am going to cut the end at an angle so it cant butt up against it.
That's a vent hose to the carburetor, if I'm getting you right. It sure will shut things down. I got water in mine once and shut down until I got the water out.
I wrapped a small piece of screen around it and let it hang down behind the ear. Need to keep wasps from building a mud nest in the end of it--like I knew happened to an airplane once.
But other things can shut the bike down too--like loose connections on primary wires in the ignition system. Or faulty safety switches. Or faulty ignition switch. (I trashed my ignition switch and put my own switches in my bike because mine was intermittent.)
Need to look at all that stuff.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 09:00 AM
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You shouldnt be reading any resistance to ground,
Are you sure you checked it right.
Did you check the three yellow wires off the regulator plug or did you unplug the three wires straight from the stator.
If your using a digital meter it may not have been zeroed.Or possibly set to megohms,which will read resistance through air practically.
Set the meter to RX1 and test again.
If you have an analog meter set it to RX1 also.
Mine shows 0 whether i check the regulator plug or the 3 wires straight off the stator.
Your stator may be warming up and shorting out,thus draining your battery.
I would recheck everything before swapping out the battery.


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Relocated R/R
Emgo air filters
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 09:19 AM
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The key in the OP is that the bike would not crank after it died. That rules out fuel delivery as the cause. The fact that it is intermittent kind of points to something loose or corroded, although the readings from the stator are suspect too. If the stator cooled enough to start the bike back up I guess it's possible that the stator is going bad, but it sure sounds like something corroded to me...

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 12:56 PM
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Some thoughts after reading the original post:

Quote:
After about 5 miles she cut off at mid throttle and would not crank.
There is a separate supply from the ignition switch to the ignition and starter circuits (the yellow wire). A faulty ignition switch coud cut off these circuits while the rest is still working.


Quote:
It was reading up to 12.8 at 4000 rpm and 12.1 when I hit the brake.
Low for the battery, but could be fine if the voltmeter is hooked somewhere else.

Quote:
I pulled a plug wire off after 12 mins and put a screw driver in it I had in pocket to see if it had a spark and it tryed to fire up. I put wire back on and didnt seem like it want to fire up.
So it did crank after a while. Good or just barely? If good, that rules out any charging problem.

Quote:
Same I mess with off on switch and kick stand switch and it fired up and I came back home.
If the clutch is pulled in or gear at neutral, it does not matter whether the kickstand switch works or not.

Quote:
Just wonder if its the coil, I believe it was hitting 50 -60 ac volts on stater wires but will recheck
This one I cannot figure out. By coil you mean stator? By starter wires you mean stator wires? 50-60VAC on stator wires is enough. Could be the R/R if the battery had trouble turning the engine over.
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