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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-11-2009, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Question Need wiring help with Volt gauge

I bought a tractor volt gauge from Tractor Supply. Need some help getting it wired up. I tried to find a low amp relay and the auto parts store but the smallest they have is 30 amp.

I would like to get it wired today if I can but have no idea where to start or how to get it wired with the best reading. Someone please help!


My daily ride
Metzler ME880s
NGK caps, wires and Iridiums
Coasters (made by Lance328), earshave and rejet with screws turned out 3 turns
Volt gauge w/ custom mounting cup by Lance328 wired into headlight bucket 13.5v-14v
National Cycles Plexistar 2 windshield
DEKA battery
Mutazu GA Black hard bags w/ custom support brackets and relocation brackets made by Lance328
Custom lowers made by Lance328
Vance&Hines Cruzer exhaust pipes
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-11-2009, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the volt gauge I order:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/...g=true&cFlag=1


My daily ride
Metzler ME880s
NGK caps, wires and Iridiums
Coasters (made by Lance328), earshave and rejet with screws turned out 3 turns
Volt gauge w/ custom mounting cup by Lance328 wired into headlight bucket 13.5v-14v
National Cycles Plexistar 2 windshield
DEKA battery
Mutazu GA Black hard bags w/ custom support brackets and relocation brackets made by Lance328
Custom lowers made by Lance328
Vance&Hines Cruzer exhaust pipes
TOC MCCTs
H.I.D. Conversion kit
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-11-2009, 04:28 PM
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try looking up in the search box under "wiring voltmeter" and see if that help you
here are a couple


https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?p=70339

https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?p=70339

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-11-2009, 04:57 PM
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Here is a link to the wiring diagram I created when I wired my voltmeter.

https://www.vn750.com/photopost/showp...00&ppuser=4374

I have since switched from the Kury meter to a pro-comp gauge, but the wiring is the same. Hope this helps.

Chris
Wayne, NJ
1989 VN750-A5
VROC #27781
-Replaced/Fused Stator & Replaced/Relocated R/R (15K mi.)
-MF Battery
-De-Goated/Re-goated
-Coastered
-Splines Lubed
-Stebel Nautilus Horn
-AutoMeter 2" VOM
-Silverstar Headlight
-Refinished Gauge Rings and Mirrors(Flat Black)
-Refinished Swingarm/Lubed Pivots
-K&S Turn Signals Clear Cover/Amber Bulb
-Kenda Kruz 110/90-19 front 170/80-15 rear
-Clear Alternatives LED tail light
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-11-2009, 05:36 PM
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I used the premade harness to wire my grip heaters and volt meter. Pretty much plug-n-play.



Available from http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Produc...ted_grips.html for about $25. Can be used with heated grips or any other accessory.

Specifications:

- 20A Panasonic Relay and socket

- VOX wire covering

- 2 fuses included of your choice from 5A - 15A

- switching wire 24" (60 cm)

- grip leads 24" (60 cm)

- relay located 9" (23 cm) from battery POS

- ground lead 15" (38 cm) from battery NEG

- 4 cable ties included

- Sumitube shrinktube included for strain relief on the grip heater wires

- extra sheathing for wire (Symtec yellow wire)


Chris Glennon - Portland, OR
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-11-2009, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cglennon View Post
I used the premade harness to wire my grip heaters and volt meter. Pretty much plug-n-play.



Available from http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Produc...ted_grips.html for about $25. Can be used with heated grips or any other accessory.

Specifications:

- 20A Panasonic Relay and socket

- VOX wire covering

- 2 fuses included of your choice from 5A - 15A

- switching wire 24" (60 cm)

- grip leads 24" (60 cm)

- relay located 9" (23 cm) from battery POS

- ground lead 15" (38 cm) from battery NEG

- 4 cable ties included

- Sumitube shrinktube included for strain relief on the grip heater wires

- extra sheathing for wire (Symtec yellow wire)
Looks like that could work for me. But which is positive and which is negative. I see a red, blue and black wire, with the positive and negative wires that go to the battery. I also need power and ground for the tiny light bulb in the back. That's what the red and white wires are in the picture on Tractor Supply's website


My daily ride
Metzler ME880s
NGK caps, wires and Iridiums
Coasters (made by Lance328), earshave and rejet with screws turned out 3 turns
Volt gauge w/ custom mounting cup by Lance328 wired into headlight bucket 13.5v-14v
National Cycles Plexistar 2 windshield
DEKA battery
Mutazu GA Black hard bags w/ custom support brackets and relocation brackets made by Lance328
Custom lowers made by Lance328
Vance&Hines Cruzer exhaust pipes
TOC MCCTs
H.I.D. Conversion kit
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-12-2009, 11:06 AM
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FYI, The connectors are Posi-Lock connectors, which I think are the best available. They make it easy to add and change wires. Also, I used a green Sharpie marker to change the color of the bulb to match the other gauges. Took two or three coats to get a perfect match.

My volt gauge is an old mechanical type, very similar to yours. One thing I found is that it is very sensitive and needs a "clean" circuit to the battery. Even wiring the tiny gauge bulb into the same circuit cause the gauge to register a very low reading (I thought the gauge was broken at first).

So, here is how I wired mine using the premade harness pictured.
  1. Two wires, with closed loops, in lower left of picture are main power, orange to + black to -/ground
  2. Red connector to gauge + wire
  3. Blue connector on far right of picture is -/ground for BOTH gauge and gauge bulb
  4. Blue connector on top of picture connects is a Posi-Lock splice connector used to energize the relay. I attached it to the license plate bulb wire. I also added the gauge bulb to this connector so as not to interfere with the gauge accuracy. Simply unscrew the Posi-Lock splice connector, add the gauge bulb + wire and screw the Posi-Lock back together.

I also wired the heated grips to this harness which registers as a voltage drop on the gauge when the heaters are on (actually the gauge needle fluctuates due to the heat troller).


Chris Glennon - Portland, OR
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-12-2009, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks man, I'm gonna get the harness ordered this week. And if I ever decide to get heated grips, I'll already have the harness wired up.

As far as the bulb, Lance has basically the same gauge and dipped the bulb in some green model paint and said it works perfect.


My daily ride
Metzler ME880s
NGK caps, wires and Iridiums
Coasters (made by Lance328), earshave and rejet with screws turned out 3 turns
Volt gauge w/ custom mounting cup by Lance328 wired into headlight bucket 13.5v-14v
National Cycles Plexistar 2 windshield
DEKA battery
Mutazu GA Black hard bags w/ custom support brackets and relocation brackets made by Lance328
Custom lowers made by Lance328
Vance&Hines Cruzer exhaust pipes
TOC MCCTs
H.I.D. Conversion kit
VN750_DawgsFan is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-14-2009, 07:50 PM
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Why the relay?
Cant you just wire it to the ignition switch.
Volt gauges dont pull much current.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-14-2009, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer034 View Post
Why the relay?
Cant you just wire it to the ignition switch.
Volt gauges dont pull much current.
Ideally a volt gauge should be wired between the postive post of the battery and the main power cable. There are a few super accurate models that do just that using a special connector. However, this is overkill if you just want to monitor the health of the system. So, for most electronic volt gauges the ignition switch is a good choice. However, some older mechanical volt gauges (like mine) need a fairly clean circuit to the battery in order to get an accurate reading. Hence the need for the relay.


Chris Glennon - Portland, OR
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