Oh yes! I hadn't meant that welding the RR to the frame would have grounded it.
I'm saying that *If* I had used a second ground wire coming out of the RR I'd have effectively grounded the RR and probably have prevented the stator burnout. But there was no way to know the harness wire was frayed and not grounding properly.
In fact, I wonder why certain parts of the ground wiring system aren't redundant - i.e., have multiple wire-to-ground connections. That way if your groundwire broke in the harness because of flexing or whatnot, you'd at least have the second connection point to ground the system.
Perhaps this is why some of the RR relocations seem to result in failure? The heat/harness tape compromises old wires, and when the RR is finally moved they crack and fail? Just a theory.
However, I think that given the importance of the following wires, one might (should?) consider bypassing older harnesses and using new wiring for the following:
1 the three yellow wires that connect the stator to the RR
2 the black/yellow ground wire that grounds the RR
3 the (can't remember color offhand) power wire from the RR to the battery
The only wire I don't know how to bypass would be the brown signal wire. I'll poke around in the diagrams though.
MF Battery, Iridium Plugs, RR relocated, Voltmeter, 170/80/15 Kenda Kruz rear tire, DIY Samsonite hard bags, DIY shaved seat with Beaded seat pad ('cause that's how I roll) and the dreaded STATOR CHANGE.
Shining Black Bess '86 VN750, retired for parts after a fried stator and being knocked (kee-runch) in her parking spot.