does a R/R need to be grounded to the frame? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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does a R/R need to be grounded to the frame?

does the R/R need to be grounded for the bike to turn over/start?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 02:28 PM
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I`m pretty sure the black/yellow wire in the harness is the electrical ground for the r/r. So no, I don`t think it has to be bolted to the bike to start it. Just don`t try to ride with the r/r hanging loose!!

I`m sure one of the more knowledgeable wrenches will chime in here soon, to confirm or refute what I said.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBilko View Post
does the R/R need to be grounded for the bike to turn over/start?
No. OlHoss is correct that it has a wired ground.

I would however bolt it to metal..as it does get hot...and the metal you bolt it do can also absorb some of the heat the unit produces, which is always good.

KM

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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thanks guys!
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 04:58 PM
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Oddly enough, I am currently grounded due to that black wire. My RR failed due to a bad ground connection. The ground spade connector (black wire) was sooty. I think the ground wire in the harness broke. Or perhaps it was internal to the RR.

In any event, when the RR failed it cooked my stator. I checked the stator and found it grounding out into the frame.

Now I'm switching all my parts from my "good" vn750 (bess) onto my "parts bike" vn750. Easier to do this than replace the stator on the "good" bike, and the "parts bike" is earshaved and was basically ready to roll.

I guess the technical reponse to your question is "YES! the RR does need to be grounded to the frame." Although it never would have occured to me to do so, had I grounded my RR directly to the frame, Bess would still be up and running.

Scheherazade
'86 VN750
MF Battery, Iridium Plugs, RR relocated, Voltmeter, 170/80/15 Kenda Kruz rear tire, DIY Samsonite hard bags, DIY shaved seat with Beaded seat pad ('cause that's how I roll) and the dreaded STATOR CHANGE.

Shining Black Bess '86 VN750, retired for parts after a fried stator and being knocked (kee-runch) in her parking spot.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 11:52 PM
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Having read something in Gypsy's site, when I relocated the R/R, I also grounded it to the frame. Guess you can't have too many grounds!

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBilko View Post
does the R/R need to be grounded for the bike to turn over/start?
The R/R does not have to be grounded for the bike to turn over/start, nothing inside the R/R contacts the heatsink.


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SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
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Last edited by lance328; 09-03-2009 at 07:38 AM.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
The R/R does not have to be grounded for the bike to turn over/start, nothing inside the R/R contacts the heatsink.

Thank you... I was about 99.9 % sure on this, but did not post that because of that .1 bit of doubt.

Skalding...your R/R would not have been saved even if you had it welded to the frame..there is only one ground and it is the wire coming out of the unit.


So , remember to keep all those contacts clean and use dielectric grease on them...wrap up ones connections that might get wet easily too......

KM

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 06:25 PM
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Oh yes! I hadn't meant that welding the RR to the frame would have grounded it.

I'm saying that *If* I had used a second ground wire coming out of the RR I'd have effectively grounded the RR and probably have prevented the stator burnout. But there was no way to know the harness wire was frayed and not grounding properly.

In fact, I wonder why certain parts of the ground wiring system aren't redundant - i.e., have multiple wire-to-ground connections. That way if your groundwire broke in the harness because of flexing or whatnot, you'd at least have the second connection point to ground the system.

Perhaps this is why some of the RR relocations seem to result in failure? The heat/harness tape compromises old wires, and when the RR is finally moved they crack and fail? Just a theory.

However, I think that given the importance of the following wires, one might (should?) consider bypassing older harnesses and using new wiring for the following:

1 the three yellow wires that connect the stator to the RR
2 the black/yellow ground wire that grounds the RR
3 the (can't remember color offhand) power wire from the RR to the battery

The only wire I don't know how to bypass would be the brown signal wire. I'll poke around in the diagrams though.

Scheherazade
'86 VN750
MF Battery, Iridium Plugs, RR relocated, Voltmeter, 170/80/15 Kenda Kruz rear tire, DIY Samsonite hard bags, DIY shaved seat with Beaded seat pad ('cause that's how I roll) and the dreaded STATOR CHANGE.

Shining Black Bess '86 VN750, retired for parts after a fried stator and being knocked (kee-runch) in her parking spot.
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