!!!!!---Testing The Stator with pics---!!!!! - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-16-2009, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
Where you wrote "If there is resistense the stator is bad", actually we need infinite resistense between the stator and the ground. Meaning a lot of resistense between the ground and the windings. If there is continuity there is a problem.

Now if I am wrong I am willing to look it over.

I think of infinite resistance as; there is no circuit way for current to travel between the two points... i dont want someone to think that 0- whatever number is ok no number other then infinite is ok... shorts are generally gonna show a low number 0 -.2 using the continuity setting on your volt meter is ideal....



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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-25-2016, 10:41 PM
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Great writeup, my stator failed the 1st and last test. My regulator was bad to, so I figured that was the only issue so I bought the shinengen part and upgraded... Still won't charge. I wish I would have figured this out before I did my oil change...
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 01:15 PM
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So I know this is an old thread, but this is the one I was using to test my stator so I figured I’d keep the info contained on here.
Here are two short questions I need answered:

1.) What happens physically to the stator that makes it stop working like it should??

2.) How does the stator reading as grounded to the engine mean it has failed? If you did the Tuxedo Mod isn’t the Stator grounded to the mod plate, and isn’t the mod plate grounded to the engine??

FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO READ THE LONG STORY: I did the tuxedo mod. Worked great for about 6 months of riding then it....uh...didn't work so great. Like a few others on here I had the bike fail to start suddenly, but after you scratch your head for a few minutes you go "man this feels an awful lot like when my stator went bad". Well I take the cover off and realized that yes indeed my stator was worn out. I don't know for how long but it had worn some grooves into the rotor, I was kind of in a hurry so I ordered a new stator and then I ordered the stator plate from GCExtreme because I figured the reason the failure occurred was because the holes I drilled in the plate I made 6 months ago were not quite perfect enough (even though I was pretty confident in my abilities) and the rotor was probably still fine.

Well I get the new plate and stator in and pray that my rotor will be fine…..this was not the case. Although it was charging the battery some it failed the first two tests on this list. Every leg said it had some resistance( see the confusion on my second question) and the VAC on each leg was around 27 at 3k RPM. That being said in my ignorance I still rode it for about 70 miles or so before it started to sputter like the battery was running low, and I got it back to the garage. I take out the stator and it now has grooves cut into one part of it and the wearing on the rotor has gotten so bad that the metal “laminate??” inside the rotor has started to peel at points. So obviously I am going to need a new rotor.

So this leads me back to my first question. What physically has to be wrong for a stator to fail? Is some of the deep wear around the outside edges where it rubbed the rotor means it is pretty much toast?? It is just a hard pill for me to swallow knowing this stator only has 70 some odd miles on it….

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1979 VW Bus/Westfalia
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 01:49 PM
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Electrically, the wire of the stator windings should be isolated from the core of the stator. The wire is coated with lacquer or some other insulator before being wound around the legs of the stator. If the insulation breaks down (overheating, excessive vibration, etc) then they can short to ground, and the charging system won't work because no voltage/current will be produced by the shorted windings.

At no time should the rotor contact the stator. Ever. If you're wearing troughs in the metal pieces, your stator plate is not aligned properly, or is too loose to hold the stator in place when running.

Its possible that a stator that the rotor has rubbed against will still be ok. The laminated metal plates that form the core are supposed to be electrically isolated from each other, but I don't think a little damage to the outside edge of the stator wouldn't be an 'immediate scrap' situation. Pictures would help. The windings are the key part. The rotor needs to be perfectly balanced, so damage there will need replacement.

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
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Electrically, the wire of the stator windings should be isolated from the core of the stator. The wire is coated with lacquer or some other insulator before being wound around the legs of the stator. If the insulation breaks down (overheating, excessive vibration, etc) then they can short to ground, and the charging system won't work because no voltage/current will be produced by the shorted windings.
I think this means that this newish Stator is toasted already then. It is grounded to the Tuxedo Mod Plate. I tested this by removing the stator from the housing, bolting the mod plate backwards so the stator faces out not touching any part of the engine. connect my multimeter to one leg of the stator and one leg to the engine and I will still get some resistance. Does that sound right?

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The rotor needs to be perfectly balanced, so damage there will need replacement.
Looks like it is time to replace the rotor then

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1979 VW Bus/Westfalia
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 02:44 PM
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You should have infinite resistance between the lead and the plate when testing as you described.
FYI, a bad rectifier/regulator can cause a stator to overheat and blow out prematurely. Or so I'm told.

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Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
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You should have infinite resistance between the lead and the plate when testing as you described.
FYI, a bad rectifier/regulator can cause a stator to overheat and blow out prematurely. Or so I'm told.
Yeah I had really low resistance readings. Like 1.5 ohms or something. While I am doing all this work I may as well check on the R/R anyway I guess. I don't think I will be able to test it properly till I get it all back together with a good stator & rotor though, right?

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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KFred09 View Post
Yeah I had really low resistance readings. Like 1.5 ohms or something. While I am doing all this work I may as well check on the R/R anyway I guess. I don't think I will be able to test it properly till I get it all back together with a good stator & rotor though, right?
The r/r gets tested with the plug disconnected, there's a chart in the download manual, but I also posted it a couple weeks back.

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