Help!!!! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2009, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Help!!!!

Anyone from central PA that could help me with my problems. I do not understand when everyone tells me how to test the stator and the voltage regulator. I need it in picture/diagram form. This bike makes me feel like an idiot. I replaced the battery, and it still backfires when you are down shifting. It shut off on me, but when I turned it to reserve, fired it, it backfired and ran. It just isn't right. I either need someone to hold my hand, or take this thing off my hands. HELP!!!!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2009, 05:01 PM
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Hey, Mazlan! I can't quite tell what the problem is - the backfiring is a sorta easy fix, but it sounds like something else is going on? Can you describe the "shutting down" part first? Or direct me to a thread where you describe the problem? Also, where in central PA are you? I'm about 45 minutes south of Gettysburg (in MD), but could consider making a housecall if needed!

C
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2009, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I have been driving down the road and all of a sudden the bike just shuts off (no power) I get pulled over. I turn the pet cock over to reserve and crank it. It backfires extremely loud and fires up. I get home. If I would go out and start it now, it would start, but when you crack the throtle and let off you get a poping backfire. It doesn't happen at highway speed. I replace the battery today, went for a ride and the same thing happened. It runs fine after you get it fired back up and going. It still pop backfires slightly when you slow to a stop sign. To be honest with you it does sound pretty cool sometimes, but I know it isn't a good thing. I am just at the end of my rope. I went as far as putting the bike on Craigslist for sale for $1500 (Well less than blue book I might add), but I don't really want to stick someone else with my problem unless they are a true Vulcan fan and know what they are getting into. I basically want to fix it and then ditch it. I think it is the dreaded stator. I cleaned all the electrical connections, the bike fired up really nice(no choke, first little touch of the starter) I shut it down and tried to fire again and I got the backfire thing to eventually starting. I had the pet cock replaced in May. I replace the rear tire, the timing chain tensioners, and numerous other items. It is inspected until next year. I tried to check the stator, but I am so confused as to what to put my meter on. HELP if you can or buy my bike!! HA HA
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2009, 10:51 PM
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Ok, I remember the discussions about the bike just shutting down on you. That's still a mystery. The popping/backfiring, though, is usually due to a lean fuel mixture - that is, too much air, not enough fuel. It can come from a number of things; for example, the air/fuel mixture screws are factory set at 1 5/8ths turns - that's lean, and the bike will pop on deceleration consistently at that setting. You might try to turn those out (2 to 2 1/4 turns) may help. But you may also have a vacuum leak - check the boots that link the carbs to the airbox, and the boots that link that air filter housings to the airbox. Those are two areas where leaks are likely to occur.

The stator is underneath the leftside engine cover - there are three wires (yellow) coming out of of the stator that hook into your regulator. If you've relocated your regulator, then it's the three wires that go into the end of that. If you haven't, the regulator is positioned underneath the battery box - look for the three wires going in under there. There are two ways to test your charging system - pull those three wires, and test the resistance across the wires - should be between .3 and .5 ohms. You can also just make sure that your system is generating enough electricity by putting a voltmeter on your battery - should be around 12.7v fully charged. Once the bike is warmed up, and with your rpms up around 3500, you should see the voltage jump to 13.5-14.5v (your system (stator + regulator) is now generating extra electricity - some to run the bike, some to store for "tomorrow"). If those readings all check out ok, the backfiring, etc. is not related to the charging system - so the Team will all have to put our heads together and think a little more.

Wish I could buy your bike - most likely a straightforward fix, although I know it's gotta be really, really frustrating trying to figure out what's causing the problems. Alas - I'm still trying to sell my project bike, so there's no extra room in the stables right now. lol

C
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2009, 11:01 PM
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ok im gonna get a pic goin... give me an hour or so for all the stator tests...



Stator #3
MF AGM
DeGoated
Ears Shaved
R/R relocated
Rebuilt



She's worth her weight in GOLD
If u dont have it already Here is the Service Manual
How To Test the Stator
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2009, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazlan View Post
Anyone from central PA that could help me with my problems. I do not understand when everyone tells me how to test the stator and the voltage regulator. I need it in picture/diagram form. This bike makes me feel like an idiot. I replaced the battery, and it still backfires when you are down shifting. It shut off on me, but when I turned it to reserve, fired it, it backfired and ran. It just isn't right. I either need someone to hold my hand, or take this thing off my hands. HELP!!!!

And what part of Central Pa are you from??

"Show me a man who makes no mistakes, and I'll show you a man who doesn't do things." Theodore Roosevelt."

2007 Victory Kingpin
Current projects - 1986 VN750 & 1988 EL250
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-16-2009, 12:04 AM
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Test one:

I do this test first because all 3 of my stators have faild in this fashion this is y im gonna go with rewinding mine...

I have the stator out so thats y the pic it this way follow the wires comming out of the case around the trans cover and up above the drive shaft by the batt box... u will see three conections like in the pic

Ground = case (really any ground should work)



Stator #3
MF AGM
DeGoated
Ears Shaved
R/R relocated
Rebuilt



She's worth her weight in GOLD
If u dont have it already Here is the Service Manual
How To Test the Stator
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-16-2009, 12:12 AM
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Test to resistance between the poles...



someone chime in if my readings are off



Stator #3
MF AGM
DeGoated
Ears Shaved
R/R relocated
Rebuilt



She's worth her weight in GOLD
If u dont have it already Here is the Service Manual
How To Test the Stator
seebeeare is offline  
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-16-2009, 12:19 AM
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ac volts

repeat this step for all thee combination if u labeled the wire a, b , c, it would look like this ... ab, ac, bc,.... this is with the bike running



Stator #3
MF AGM
DeGoated
Ears Shaved
R/R relocated
Rebuilt



She's worth her weight in GOLD
If u dont have it already Here is the Service Manual
How To Test the Stator
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-16-2009, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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I am from Huntingdon, PA. 26 miles south of State College. Where on the carb are the screws you are talking about? I checked the boots, and they seem fine. I will attempt the stator test. Can the voltage regulator go bad without the stator going bad and vice versa? Just wondering. Thanks guys for all the help you are giving me. Vulcans, they are either a way of life or a way of personal hell!!!! HA HA
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