Battery charging problems - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2009, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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Battery charging problems

Hello to all forum. I'm new here, I am from Spain and I have a Vulcan 750 in the year 92. Since I bought it 5 years ago, I have done some modifications including the approximate kups to pic-magnetic plate to solve the problem of hot start. But now I have the following problem: the burden that comes to the battery when the engine is idling around 13.60 V, but under acceleration, instead of rising, this reduces to 12, 50 or so. The battery and the regulator is new and checked, I checked the alternator and yellow wire in each there are 50 volts and increases to accelerate, even connecting a cable on each lamp, the turn smoothly. The wiring and connectors throughout the system power is checked and verified.
Someone can give me some idea what the problem is?
Thank you very much to all and a few beers.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2009, 12:37 PM
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From what points exactly did you measure the voltage, I mean where was your multimeter negative probe and where the positive?

You could have nonzero resistance from the negative pole of the battery to the bike frame or from the ground pin of the regulator to the bike frame.

Measure the voltage directly between the brown and black/yellow wires at the regulator connector. If the voltage drops there too with increasing revs, then I cannot explain it.

Someone else has reported a decreasing voltage with increasing revs, but I don't remember who. If I remember correctly, he said that it has caused no problems though.

Oh, and welcome to the forum!
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2009, 01:10 PM
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actually pops it is the white wire and black/yellow you need to check...the brown wire is a voltage reference wire to tell the R/R how much voltage and Amperage is needed to maintain a good battery charge....the brown wire goes through the headlight relay and 2 diodes in the J/B (Junction Box). The White wire goes straight to the JB through the main fuse then to the Battery.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2009, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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This is the schedule:

Evidence technicians in stator:

And tests on the regulator:


Everything ok, but the battery voltage is as I said:
Idling: 13.70
Expediting: 12.08
The tension never reaches the 14 volt battery.
Os agradeceria your help. Thank you very much.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2009, 04:56 PM
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so if your battery voltage doesn't reach 14.0-14.5 @ 4500 rpm,s you have a problem
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2009, 05:31 PM
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Welcome to the forum pepe. I will leave the electrical gremlins for others to sort out.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 04:03 AM Thread Starter
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OlHoss thank you very much.
I have noticed that the speed and drop to low speed when the voltage reaches the 14.4-5V.
I do not understand anything, this breakdown is me going crazy.
I appreciate all the ideas that you can give me.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
the brown wire is a voltage reference wire to tell the R/R how much voltage and Amperage is needed to maintain a good battery charge....
Exactly! The requlator tries to bring the brown wire to the set charging voltage. Supposing the set charging voltage is 14V and the regulator sees less at the brown wire, it increases the voltage on the white wire until it sees that 14V on the brown wire. Likewise, if there is more than 14V on the brown wire, the regulator outputs less voltage on the white wire. So the correct wires to measure are the brown and the black/yellow. If all connections are good, you should see the same or more likely a bit higher voltage at the white wire. Remember, we are trying to measure if the regulator works, not the actual battery voltage.

This scheme of controlling the charging voltage has it's pros and cons. On the positive side, it eliminates the voltage drop in the wires and the voltage is correct where the load is (lamps, ignition etc). On the negative side, if you have bad connections and hence a high voltage drop from the battery to the regulator monitoring input, the battery charging voltage may get way too high and the battery is cooked. Depending on where the bad connection is, you may also have the bulbs blow and other damage. In my opinion, due to the cons, this scheme is bad. If there is a monitoring voltage failure, something breaks. The better scheme is for the regulator to measure the output voltage directly (the white wire). In this case the worst that can happen due to poor connections is that your battery does not get charged.

However, if what Bulldog says in this thread is true, I admit being wrong in this case:
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12281

Anyway, if you want to see if the battery gets charged, measure directly from the battery poles - and I mean poles, not the connectors screwed to the poles. Then work your way towards the requlator. If neither the regulator brown wire or the white wire show a good charging voltage, then the regulator is bad (assuming a good AC input to the recitifier).
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 12:08 PM
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the reason i say the white wire and not the brown, is because if the JB happens to be bad, then you are running around in circles...I did this...replaced both the R/R and stator...twice, because of a bad JB but didn't know that the brown wire can get shut down inside the JB by a bad relay or diode
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Continuo con las pruebas, y creo que el problema es el stator. Midiendo la tension alterna (AC) entre los tres teminales amarillos conectados al regulador la tension es de 13 voltios a 1000 rpm y 4 5 voltios 2500 rpm.
Aunque con estos cables amarillos desconectados del regualador, la tension es de 50 voltios.
Pero creo que el stator esta averiado. Asi que tengo que sacar motor y revisar.



Continuing with testing and I think the problem is the stator. Measuring the alternating voltage (AC) between the three yellow terminals connected to the voltage regulator is 13 volts at 1000 rpm and 4 or 5 volts 2500 rpm.
Even with these yellow wires disconnected from regualador, the voltage is 50 volts.
But I think the stator is damaged. So I have to take engine and check.

Last edited by pepetrueno64; 08-13-2009 at 01:20 PM.
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