My R/R has crispy wires - pics - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-26-2009, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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My R/R has crispy wires - pics

First what does R/R Stand for? Next, what are my options - new r/r or new wireing harness or is it ok. Where can I get a new one and do you think I have to?

I been reading about ppl relocating the r/r so I decided to look into it today. Here is what I see after removing r/r. What to do? Also where to get a mount for relocation? Went for 5 minute ride and the r/r got pretty hot - is this normal?

Thanks

Sorry for huge pictures



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Last edited by MisterPister; 05-11-2011 at 06:23 PM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-26-2009, 01:19 PM
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R/R is a regulator/rectifier - it takes the AC current generated by the stator and converts it to DC for storage in the battery (electricity can only be stored as direct current). Are you having difficulties keeping a charge on your battery? I would guess "yes" looking at the wires, but sometimes there's still a connection hiding in there. Might also want to check the output on the stator since the "stator bone's connected to the r/r bone..."

Check with folks here for where they're buying new R/Rs. I've gotten all mine off of eBay - used; but also have a brand new one here at the ready ($75 shipped). Lance328 has been making r/r brackets - touch base with him about hooking you up!

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-26-2009, 01:22 PM
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R/R stands for regulator/rectifier (rectifies the AC generated by the alternator into DC and regulates it to 14.2 v ). Yours is in need of some TLC. For sure you need to remove that connector and clean the connections as best as you can. The bad connections will only add to the heat generation and ultimately lead to failure of either the stator or the R/R or both.

Bad connections are common among many motorcycles. Take apart and clean connections and use some silicone grease to keep moisture out. If the connector are in very bad shape you'll have to replace them. The R/R may still be good but if the connectors are so badly corroded that may be reason to replace it.

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Last edited by kontiki; 07-26-2009 at 01:23 PM. Reason: typo
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-26-2009, 01:24 PM
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R/R= Regulator / Rectifier

You can replace the connector and as long as the R/R is working you will be fine. Mix up some baking soda and water to neutralize the acid and clean the R/R . For now clean the contacts and apply some dielectric grease to the connectors then plug them back in the proper place. I don't rember off hand who sell the connector but FlaRider bought one, send him a PM.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-26-2009, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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awesome thanks for the advice - I will try an clean in a bit - although i dont think i can get them apart - i tried alittle. Anywhere I can mount it w/o buying anything? Can I just poor the mixture on the connecters in the r/r or do not soak?
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Last edited by MisterPister; 05-11-2011 at 06:23 PM.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-26-2009, 01:35 PM
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Yes you can pour the mixture on te R/R, scrub with a brush and do the same on the bike.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-26-2009, 11:55 PM
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Go here for the connectors
http://www.electrosport.com/products...etail-2090.php
I am trying to find the site I got my Regulator from they were a good price. And they are in minnesota so the chances you will have to pay sales tax are nice and slim.

Sold 750 (9-09)
Bought '07 900 Classic "LT" (6-09)
Mustand Seat (6-09)
Balanced Carbs (4-09)
Adjusted Mix Screws (4-09)
Drilled Baffles 8 holes (4-09)
R/R Relocated (3-09)
Splines Lubed (3-09)
Metzelers ME880 170/80 in back 100/90 in front (3-09)
Painted flat blak (3-09)
Kuri grips (8-08)
Kuri Longhorn pegs (8-08)
Iridium Plugs (8-08)
Highway bar/ engine guard(FS)
Some saddlebags no idea which ones
Facebook group Vulcan 750 Riders (Invite Only Group)
Facebook ID Eli Gaffke
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 12:03 AM
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Heres a whole thread bout my issues with Regulators. Turned out my real problem is with the JB. So I ended up hooking the RR strait to the battery so it would charge. Wish I could find where I bought the RR from. I'll keep looking. Check that stator before you spend money on other stuff. Like food and rent. Cuz you might have to forgo one of those things if you pay a mech to fix the stator. ;>
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthrea...t=10853&page=1

Sold 750 (9-09)
Bought '07 900 Classic "LT" (6-09)
Mustand Seat (6-09)
Balanced Carbs (4-09)
Adjusted Mix Screws (4-09)
Drilled Baffles 8 holes (4-09)
R/R Relocated (3-09)
Splines Lubed (3-09)
Metzelers ME880 170/80 in back 100/90 in front (3-09)
Painted flat blak (3-09)
Kuri grips (8-08)
Kuri Longhorn pegs (8-08)
Iridium Plugs (8-08)
Highway bar/ engine guard(FS)
Some saddlebags no idea which ones
Facebook group Vulcan 750 Riders (Invite Only Group)
Facebook ID Eli Gaffke
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 10:25 AM
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Unless I missed it, yes. It does get very hot very quickly. My R/R and stator turned out to be in great condition (thank god), and after soldering and redoing all the wires to it, it's been great ever since. I've relocated AND done a de-goat, and it still gets quite warm if you're just sitting there with the bike idling.

When moving on a nice day, it stays pleasantly cool though.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the posts - and thanks jace for the link - I am assuming my stator is ok - bike runs good heh
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Last edited by MisterPister; 05-11-2011 at 06:24 PM.
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