STATOR is dead :( !!! help please :) - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-23-2009, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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STATOR is dead :( !!! help please :)

Greeting fellow riders,

I really think my stator is shot, i have replaced my battery 3 times since january.
Earlier today i checked out the voltage on the battery while the engine is on.
Rev it about 4500rpm and it hardly goes 12.8V. I need to check the yellow hire as well in the morning. When you guys are talking about checking the ohm from a yellow to the engine case...what is the engine case? sorry i have no clue
Also, can someone provide all the parts( include what/where to buy the stator) i need to buy before i start the scary swap.
Do we have some detailed instructions and pictures for a stator replacement?
Any last minute advices before replacing it?

Sorry to all, i know there are tons of thread regarding this issue but there are also so many different opinion, i just don't want to get confused.

Thanks guys in advance!

PEACE!!!

2005 Vulcan 750
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-23-2009, 11:13 PM
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engine case is the engines shell if you engine is painted you need to scrap a piece to bare metal... u need a front beval gasket a stator cover gasket a stator 4 liters of oil oil filter antifreeze also most are gonna recomend the orings on the smaller cover and screws for those however i didnt replace them on either replacement i highly recomend checking the rectifier befor u buy parts and start the tear down for its a long day to do the stator... i recomend pulling the motor for its less hassle then dealing with a suspended motor... this is also where i grease the tail end of my drive shaft too im not gonna recomend a stator for i havent found one im happy with yet...



Stator #3
MF AGM
DeGoated
Ears Shaved
R/R relocated
Rebuilt



She's worth her weight in GOLD
If u dont have it already Here is the Service Manual
How To Test the Stator
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-23-2009, 11:21 PM
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cheapcycleparts.com here are the gaskets u need
11060-1089 GASKET,GENERATOR COVE $11.17 $11.17
11060-1086 GASKET,GEAR CASE $7.48 $7.48



Stator #3
MF AGM
DeGoated
Ears Shaved
R/R relocated
Rebuilt



She's worth her weight in GOLD
If u dont have it already Here is the Service Manual
How To Test the Stator
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-23-2009, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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what are the steps to check the R/R?

thanks for the quick response.

PEACE!!!

2005 Vulcan 750
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2009, 12:55 AM
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i havent performd that test the first replace was diagnosed by the seller of the bike to me and i did the stator tests and found it faulty ... the second time i was in the motor i saw a bare wire so i replaced it while i was there ... do u have a clymers manual? i recomend getting it befor u tear down it will have details on it but for the stator if there is continuity between the engine and any one of the yellow wires the sator will need to be replaced... i was leaning toward the rectifier because of your readings when my stator was grounded i got no charging voltage i just had batt voltage it seems that you are recieving an inadiquit charge.... this isn't a diagnoses please dont take this as replace that part....



Stator #3
MF AGM
DeGoated
Ears Shaved
R/R relocated
Rebuilt



She's worth her weight in GOLD
If u dont have it already Here is the Service Manual
How To Test the Stator
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2009, 07:56 AM
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check my sig line, no pics sorry but should have most the info you need. its not as bad as it sounds, took me two days.

1986 vn 750 aka "Huck Farley"
42,000 miles
Rick's stator and rr
Tuxedo stator cover mod
pickup coil mod
dampers replaced
agm m/f battery
Harley sportster exhaust, degoated
Hid conversion
splines lubed
custom "vn750.com" grill cover
NGK Iridium spark plugs


acct to mcct mod https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917

rekeying locks, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7309

stator replacement walkthrough, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11369
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2009, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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thanks guys!
Does anyone knows how to check if the R/R is good?

PEACE!!!

2005 Vulcan 750
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2009, 11:17 AM
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I've never been able to get resistance reading off an r/r that fall within the Kawi ranges. I wound up testing the diodes on the r/r, and doing the resistance and voltage tests on the stator. the following 2 links helped me out a great deal when I was diagnosing problems with my charging system.

http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ting-guide.pdf

http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ding-guide.php

The short list for the stator test is resistance in the range of .3 to .5 across any 2 yellow leads, and infinity across yellow and case. AC voltage (not DC voltage) s/b 50 to 70 VAC @ 4000RPM. (my resistance readings are a little higher consistently)

Hope this helps! Good Luck!

Chris
Wayne, NJ
1989 VN750-A5
VROC #27781
-Replaced/Fused Stator & Replaced/Relocated R/R (15K mi.)
-MF Battery
-De-Goated/Re-goated
-Coastered
-Splines Lubed
-Stebel Nautilus Horn
-AutoMeter 2" VOM
-Silverstar Headlight
-Refinished Gauge Rings and Mirrors(Flat Black)
-Refinished Swingarm/Lubed Pivots
-K&S Turn Signals Clear Cover/Amber Bulb
-Kenda Kruz 110/90-19 front 170/80-15 rear
-Clear Alternatives LED tail light
-Plexifairing III
-Willie & Max Saddlebags and SissyBar Bag
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2009, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by letitflight View Post
thanks guys!
Does anyone knows how to check if the R/R is good?
It seem to be easier to test the stator output: Unplug the R/R connector and start the bike. set MM on AC volts and test the three yellow wires at the plug @ 4000 rpm. Check two at a time but testing all three. Write down the voltages.

Then with engine off do a continuity test to see if a coil has grounded. Set MM for continuity black lead to ground or case and red lead on yellow wire, check all three. If you show continuity the stator is toast, if they test open then they are not grounded.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

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Last edited by lance328; 07-24-2009 at 02:54 PM.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2009, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
It seem to be easier to test the stator output: Unplug the R/R connector adn start the bike. set MM on AC volts and test the three yellow wires at the plug @ 4000 rpm. Check two at a time but testing all three. Write down the voltages.

Then with engine off do a continuity test to see if a coil has grounded. Set MM for continuity black lead to ground or case and red lead on yellow wire, check all three. If you show continuity the stator is toast, if they test open then they are not grounded.
Will do, thanks Lance

PEACE!!!

2005 Vulcan 750
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