VN700 Charging problem. and tachometer - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-17-2009, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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VN700 Charging problem. and tachometer

Thank god i found this place. seems im not the only one with a charging problem and tachometer problem.
have tested the ohms reading from the Stator and getting OL on the meter so no shorts.
when testing the AC Voltage at the harness for the R/R im getting 19VAC on each one. or there abouts. so all equal measurements, but no were near the 40-50VAC i should be getting.

i have replaced the R/R already as it had corrison on the nuts and one have broken into 3. so replaced and refitted.

have cleaned all earthing points on bike. the one to the engine to the starter relay and the one from the battery to the earth on the frame just behind battery bay.
have changed the battery for a new one, fully charged

have a problem with the tachometer to. when i first start the bike, it works fine. as soon as i move the throttle the tacho works in reverse.

have found one wire that was burnt out this was the ylw/blk wire for the fuel sensor. cut it out and replaced it.

waiting on new stator turning up,this is the next change as i can see it being the only problem now. after looking at most of the other threads.

will do a check on the fuse and diode readings for the J/B as could also be the problem, but would think not enough voltage from the stator would be the problem. but dont show as faulty on a ohms test.

any ideas at all. based in the uk have a grey import vn700.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-17-2009, 03:50 PM
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If you measured the 19 VAC between all combinations of 2 wires at a time, of the 3 yellow wires coming from the stator, while reving at ~4,000 RPM, you are right, the stator is faulty and not putting out enough voltage.

The tachometer sensor takes its reading from the front ignition coil. When you say the tach "works in reverse", do you mean the indicator needle goes below zero RPMs? I don`t know what would cause this, but lance will probably be online shortly, and be able to point you in the right direction. Good luck with the bike. I hope you have the wind in your face soon.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-17-2009, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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bizzare thing just happened. connected it all back up with recharged battery. done a mega test which does show a breakdown in the stator.

but all connected back together and the fan decides to kick in for no reason. the fan has been bypassed to a switch. only way to stop the fan was to pull the plug from the JB. or disconnect the battery.

wondering if it is the JB after all this. along with the stator.


OlHossCanada. the tach returns to zero correct.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-17-2009, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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just found the fault for the fan. there is a wire at the bottom of the radiator it was abit worse for wear. i think it is a sensor but for some reson it has an open circuit so the wire has to be live. leading back to junction box or maybe the wiring harness is not so good.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-17-2009, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vogelrok View Post
bizzare thing just happened. connected it all back up with recharged battery. done a mega test which does show a breakdown in the stator.

but all connected back together and the fan decides to kick in for no reason. the fan has been bypassed to a switch. only way to stop the fan was to pull the plug from the JB. or disconnect the battery.

wondering if it is the JB after all this. along with the stator.


OlHossCanada. the tach returns to zero correct.
Check the tach connector in the HL bucket and make sure wires are correctly possitioned, you probably need another tach. Looks like you need a JB as well.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-17-2009, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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think the JB might be ok as the fan stopped when the switch just broke at the borrom of the rad.

Lance what ac voltage should i be getting from the stator wires.

could the magneto have gone down as only getting 19volts AC at the R/R connector when disconnected.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-17-2009, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vogelrok View Post
think the JB might be ok as the fan stopped when the switch just broke at the borrom of the rad.

Lance what ac voltage should i be getting from the stator wires.

could the magneto have gone down as only getting 19volts AC at the R/R connector when disconnected.
Is the 19 VAC at Idle or 4000 rpm? It is not uncommon for a system to put out 19 VAC at idle then over 40 VAC at 4000 rpm.

You realy want to see over 40 VAC @ 4000 rpm, I have also seen systems function with 20 VAC @ 4000 rpm.

What is your volt reading DC at the battery @ 4000 rpm?


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-17-2009, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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DC is 12.63 at the battery at 4000 RPM.

dont suppose it makes much difference but the charging red and white wire goes to the starter relay first instead of to the battery.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-17-2009, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Cheers for the help Lance by the way. really greatful.

Should i need to change the JB is there any other models that are the same at all. as from what i have seen they not easy to find for the 700/750
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-18-2009, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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not sure if this is a problem at all.
but for some strange reason i did a ampage test on the circuit, to see what amps was being drawn when the ignigtion was turned on.
i was getting 2.73 amps. so in turn i removed the headlight fuses and tail light fuse. not much of a drop from the front as it only comes on when fired up. but when i removed the tail light fuse i had a drop of 2.23amps.

does anyone know what ampage the ignition draws when turned on not fired up. not had time to check to see what wattage the bulbs are for the tail lights, to work it out what ampage should be drawn from just turning the ignition on.
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