Idle problem - Melted Connecter (pics inside) - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-11-2009, 01:19 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 156
iTrader: (0)
 
Send a message via AIM to Acid7711
Idle problem - Melted Connecter (pics inside)

Hey guys,

As a few of you might remember, this was originally basically a question about if gas was supposed to be coming from my petcock or not asked here: https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11563

Well, because that thread doesn't have much to do with the real problem, my mysterious won't idle but runs great going down the road problem, I dove into the electrical parts of the bike today and here is what I found.

The problem in a pinch is that my bike runs perfect going down the road, idles great when cold/warm, but when I take it on a decently long trip, as soon as I come to a stop, it tries to die and I have to hold the throttle open to keep it idling.

I've put in iridium plugs, AGM battery, wires are good to the plugs, drained the carbs many times, reset the air/fuel screws on the carb to various lengths, finally settling upon about 3 turns out (this has helped with the popping from de-goating), relocated the R/R, drained the fuel tank and cleaned it out, cleaned the petcock screens, ran new vacuum lines/fuel lines, re capped all vacuum ports, still have this mysterious problem. It doesn't happen all the time, long trips and random. Other times it runs like a champ!


I started getting scared thinking it was the stator and/or R/R going out, so I wanted to look at the system. After diving into the electrical system of the bike today, I found the following.


Burnt and melted connectors/insulation from the stator connectors.



Yellow wires up top that they connect to, one of the connectors was almost off the wire:


This insulation tube that covers the stator wires was FULL of an oil/crap/water mix. I squeezed it from one end to the other and it just came out like a stream, I couldn't believe it. The entire wires and connectors were all coated in this water/oil mix crap. It was nasty. A LOT came out. I took it off completely and cleaned it out 100%.




The burnt/melted insulation I cut off:


the bare bullet connectors. I replaced these to be safe, they didn't look horrible, but not great either:

Acid7711 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-11-2009, 01:22 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 156
iTrader: (0)
 
Send a message via AIM to Acid7711
I started by cleaning and sealing that insulation tube up with heat-shrink tubing at the top. This has made a good seal. Hopefully it will keep crap out of there better:



Bottom of stator wires heat-shrink sealed too:



Heat-shrinked the top connector yellow wires:



Stator wires crimped with new bullet connectors on clean wire:



Each one of the individual bullet connectors heat-shrink insulated to further protect them:



Same on top:



Finalized top connections:



Finished and connected:


Last edited by Acid7711; 07-11-2009 at 02:03 AM.
Acid7711 is offline  
post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-11-2009, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 156
iTrader: (0)
 
Send a message via AIM to Acid7711
While I didn't get a chance to test my voltage before, I checked the stator before and after this, and before I was getting about 5 at idle, after wards about 18/20 ac volts. It seemed to climb rapidly with revs. Hopefully the stator and R/R are OK.


I didn't have a chance to ever test the volts directly at the battery when this idle problem was happening because it was very random, but I tested it out after I finished cleaning these connectors up.

Cold idle: 12v
Warm idle: 13v

When reved even a hair above idle it jumps quickly to 14v. So I'm hoping I'm good now and this was the source of my mysterious idling problem. **crosses fingers** What say you? Could it have been? My thinking was it pulling enough when riding, but not making enough because of the crap connection at idle with all the resistance of the nasty/dirty connections. I've hopefully solved my problem, won't know for a while one way or the other as it's rainy here and like I said the problem was very random.

I wish I had some better volt readings other than just 12, 13, and 14v, but unfortunately the volt meter I have is a very nice one, but it was given to me and is geared more towards AC than DC, the exact opposite of what I need/use one for, but it was gift and expensive so it's all I have for now.
Acid7711 is offline  
 
post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-11-2009, 01:55 AM
The Reanimater
 
jthill524's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: A Little Town Along I-5 in Northern California
Posts: 847
iTrader: (2)
 
This is the way mine looked. Replaced wire/connections and (Knock on Wood) everything seems to be working fine.




JaY



"Veronica"
2002 VN750 Vulcan
Rebuilt Engine
ACCTs lubed w/TOC Springs
Pick-up Coils Gapped at .018"
Splines Lubed
Deka MF AGM EXT15L Battery
NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs
R/R Relocation Fix
New Rear Rack
Stock Seat Repadded
Ext-BackRest
jthill524 is offline  
post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-11-2009, 01:58 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 156
iTrader: (0)
 
Send a message via AIM to Acid7711
Ouch man! Mine look very similar!


I just want to be 100% sure, it doesn't matter which of the stator wires connects to which of the yellow wires as long as all 3 are connected right?
Acid7711 is offline  
post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-11-2009, 02:36 AM
The Reanimater
 
jthill524's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: A Little Town Along I-5 in Northern California
Posts: 847
iTrader: (2)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid7711 View Post
Ouch man! Mine look very similar!


I just want to be 100% sure, it doesn't matter which of the stator wires connects to which of the yellow wires as long as all 3 are connected right?
Yes it DOESN't matter. Ennnie, Mennie, Minnie, Moe.........

JaY



"Veronica"
2002 VN750 Vulcan
Rebuilt Engine
ACCTs lubed w/TOC Springs
Pick-up Coils Gapped at .018"
Splines Lubed
Deka MF AGM EXT15L Battery
NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs
R/R Relocation Fix
New Rear Rack
Stock Seat Repadded
Ext-BackRest
jthill524 is offline  
post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-11-2009, 02:58 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 156
iTrader: (0)
 
Send a message via AIM to Acid7711
Great! Good to know. That's what I figured (and hoped since I randomly connected them and took it for a quick test drive round my block )





*EDIT*

I just noticed that the wires coming from your stator are yellow...mine are black.

What were the stock ones? Do you figure the previous owner had changed the stator already?


I was, in a way, hoping to get in there anyways. I think the gasket on the side cover on the bottom is shot and leaks a couple drips of oil every time I shut the bike off. I don't think I can stop this leak without taking the engine out to fully pull that side off and regasket it : /

Last edited by Acid7711; 07-11-2009 at 05:45 AM.
Acid7711 is offline  
post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-11-2009, 07:14 AM
Geek
 
rnewell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 872
iTrader: (0)
 
Looks like you did a great job ! But did you extend the wires so they are not close to that hot exhaust manifold ?

Ron from Jersey
2005 VN750
HellFire windshield
Kaw extended backrest
Cobra exhaust
Re-located stator wires
Side bags
15,000 Miles July/2012
It's PAID OFF ! May 2009
rnewell is offline  
post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-11-2009, 07:39 AM
Member
 
kontiki's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 91
iTrader: (0)
 
Actually, those automotive-type bullet connectors are really poor for the type of current loads that can come from the stator. The quality of the crimp and the mating surfaces in the connector can degrade over time, and are aggravated when you start pulling multiple amps through it. Add to that the physical environment... vibration, dirt, moisture & heat you have connection that can quickly degrade.

Unless you replace them with a superior type connector (hard to find and expensive if you did) you really have to check on and replace these connections periodically. I plan to eliminate these connectors and solder mine directly then double heat-shrink the joints. That will last as long as the stator (or the engine itself).

1996 Vulcan 750
1980 XJ650 Maxim

Last edited by kontiki; 07-11-2009 at 07:42 AM. Reason: extra
kontiki is offline  
post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-11-2009, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 156
iTrader: (0)
 
Send a message via AIM to Acid7711
I actually WAS going to solder them, but I got to thinking that maybe it wouldn't be such a good idea in case the stator still had a problem. I plan to try it out for a could weeks, and if my issue is resolved, I will be redoing them and soldering them.


As for extending the wires, I didn't need to I don't think. I checked and I still had a decent amount of slack in the wire, but when I do go back to solder them, assuming this fixes my idle issue, I'll be extending them and routing them away from all sources of heat.



Actually, I HATE crimp connectors, I don't care what kind they are or what they're used for. I'm an audiophile and all my connections get soldered for everything. This was just a temp doing to ensure I didn't have to cut soldered wires apart in case my stator needs to be replaced anyways. Only time will tell if this solved my problem. It's hard to replicate.
Acid7711 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome