Quick Stator Question - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-26-2009, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quick Stator Question

After getting motor twisted and and lose to were I can get the cover off.
Tell me IF I get this right
Disconnect battery
Drain Oil Before hand
1 Take three screws out of cover and pry off cover.
2. then take bolts out of side of engine cover and take big cover off
3. take 4-5 bolts out of clutch plate and pull out not turning it so nothing falls out
4. Take Stator out and replace and run wires out.
put clutch plate back in lock tight everything
replace seals and gaskets on install

Is the jist of it or is it harder then this . Trying to get motivated
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-26-2009, 05:43 PM
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heres a full write up on it in my signature with a few helpful tips. thats basically it though. anymore questions I'll be glad to help!

1986 vn 750 aka "Huck Farley"
42,000 miles
Rick's stator and rr
Tuxedo stator cover mod
pickup coil mod
dampers replaced
agm m/f battery
Harley sportster exhaust, degoated
Hid conversion
splines lubed
custom "vn750.com" grill cover
NGK Iridium spark plugs


acct to mcct mod https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917

rekeying locks, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7309

stator replacement walkthrough, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11369
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-26-2009, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tickman View Post
After getting motor twisted and and lose to were I can get the cover off.
Tell me IF I get this right
Disconnect battery
Drain Oil Before hand
1 Take three screws out of cover and pry off cover.
2. then take bolts out of side of engine cover and take big cover off
3. take 4-5 bolts out of clutch plate and pull out not turning it so nothing falls out
4. Take Stator out and replace and run wires out.
put clutch plate back in lock tight everything
replace seals and gaskets on install

Is the jist of it or is it harder then this . Trying to get motivated

You do not need to remove the clutch plates to replace the stator.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-26-2009, 05:49 PM
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one thing not in there yet is when you run your stator wires remember to run it under the little chrome tab on your tranny cover where your oil sight glass is, I forgot and had to remove the bolt, I figured one bolt wont hurt. now I have a small oil leak there, gonna fix that at my next oil change the gasket for that is $3.81 so I'm lucky!
also not sure what you mean by your clutch plate, I did not remove that, just the generator cover and there is threee bolts holding the stator in. the bevel gear is what you need to be careful of stuff falling out of, and grease your splines with moly60 while your in there!

1986 vn 750 aka "Huck Farley"
42,000 miles
Rick's stator and rr
Tuxedo stator cover mod
pickup coil mod
dampers replaced
agm m/f battery
Harley sportster exhaust, degoated
Hid conversion
splines lubed
custom "vn750.com" grill cover
NGK Iridium spark plugs


acct to mcct mod https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917

rekeying locks, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7309

stator replacement walkthrough, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11369
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-26-2009, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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why do you have to take the bevel gear off anyway unless you need clearance to pull motor out. I just want to shift it to the right to pull the cover off. Or should I go ahead and pull it .

which is better stator
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-K...Q5fAccessories

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWAS...Q5fAccessories
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-26-2009, 07:14 PM
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because you will have to twist and drop the motor so your shift shaft is below the frame to remove the cover and the bevel gear I'm pretty sure will restrict you from lowering it that far, you will need about a good inch and a half clearance between the frame and the motor to remove it. the bevel gear is no big deal, you do not even need gasket sealer when putting it back on but the bolts holding it are different sizes so be sure to number them and follow the tightenenig sequence per the kaw manual. and moly it!

1986 vn 750 aka "Huck Farley"
42,000 miles
Rick's stator and rr
Tuxedo stator cover mod
pickup coil mod
dampers replaced
agm m/f battery
Harley sportster exhaust, degoated
Hid conversion
splines lubed
custom "vn750.com" grill cover
NGK Iridium spark plugs


acct to mcct mod https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917

rekeying locks, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7309

stator replacement walkthrough, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11369
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-26-2009, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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ok when back and unpluged 3 yellow wires and tested out 15.0 16. v each and when up when reving like it should . only thing I did was unpluged the RR and got it to read right
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-26-2009, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tickman View Post
why do you have to take the bevel gear off anyway unless you need clearance to pull motor out. I just want to shift it to the right to pull the cover off. Or should I go ahead and pull it .

which is better stator
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-K...Q5fAccessories

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWAS...Q5fAccessories
You can do it both ways, it's easier to install the motor if you just move ot to the side and you don't have to remove the bevel gear, clutch, or the small outer cover, just the main stator cover.

This is the stator you want to use, it's made in USA, not China.

Rick's Stator

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-M...4506.m20.l1116


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-27-2009, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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not to start a another thread but I tested the RR and came out with these results
Bk/Y to neg batt 0.5 ohms
white to - batt ohm nothing
switch on BR wire 11.8 V
Battery at 12.2

I believe the whie wire is bad please confirm
thanks
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-27-2009, 02:29 AM
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Quote:
ok when back and unpluged 3 yellow wires and tested out 15.0 16. v each and when up when reving like it should . only thing I did was unpluged the RR and got it to read right
15-16 at idle or when reving? Should be a lot more when reving. Did you measure against ground or between the phases? Did you remember to use AC voltage setting in your meter?

Quote:
white to - batt ohm nothing
Nothing as an open circuit? Yes, that is bad.
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