Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada
Where do you live MFP? If you fill out your profile, your location will show up on every post you make, up in the right hand corner.
The first things to do is check to cheap easy stuff. Check that all your electrical connections, and ground connections, are clean from dirt and corrosion, and tight. Pack them with dielectric grease when you reassemble them.
Is your battery a wet cell type, where you have to check the water level and pull out 6 little plugs to add distilled water? If it is this type you have, it may only last 1 year according to many members here.
To check it , make sure every cell is filled to the full line, and put it on a slow charge of 1.4 amps overnight. Our batteries are rated at 14 amps, and the maximum ideal charge rate is one tenth (1/10) of the battery capacity. A motorcycle specific "battery tender" is the best way to keep your battery topped up without overcharging it. Be careful if you use a charger designed for automobiles, as a higher charge rate can overheat the battery plates, and warp them, causing an internal electrical short.
If you have a multi meter, check the voltage of the battery after taking it off the charger, or tender. It should be 12.5 volts or more. You can also take it to a battery shop and have them perform a "load test" on it. They can tell you if your battery is damaged or weak.
When you replace your battery get a Maintenance Free-Absorbed Glass Mat (MF-AGM) type. It is sealed and you do not have to add water to it. It also seems to start the engine more reliably. And again I note that NGK Iridium Plugs make a big difference in the starting and running of this model of bike.
You also need to do as niterider suggested above, and check the voltage of your battery charging system as you speed the engine revolutions up. If the voltage does not rise as the engine speeds up, then you have a problem with either the regulator/rectifier, or the stator (alternator) which makes the electrical power. The r/r is not too expensive or difficult to replace. The stator and seals needed to replace it cost a bit more. The engine needs to be tilted in the frame, or preferably removed from the frame, in order to replace the stator.
Please answer these questions as well as you are able, and we will be better able to help you. Good luck. OlHoss
1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady
" or "Bad Girl
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15
TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO.
Click on link.
Last edited by OlHossCanada; 06-14-2009 at 07:53 PM.