Bad Regulator??? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 82 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Bad Regulator???

Ok I have been posting on a Thread titled "No Headlight" that I started. I started with some problems with my headlight not working. Which I think is tracked down to the headlight relay. Now I have had a problem with the battery dying. I charged the battery up on a charger, had it tested out at a store and they said it was fine. I test the stator using a voltmeter reading 60 some odd AC volts. Now I am trying to check out the R/R. But I don't know how to really do that. I have read a few different threads about this including these two.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2288
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=625
Now some the testing things I understand, but some of them I don't. I have a meter that does alot, I just don't know how to use it.
For example, when checking ohms what does infinity mean, my meter doesn't have that symbol, it will show o.L and for some things it give numbers. But the instruction in those threads and the manual, say I am supposed to set the meter to 100 ohms, I have no idea what that means. This meter has an auto mode, but will allow me to change the range, but I am not sure what I am checking.

This is the meter I have

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Last edited by Jace Bror; 05-06-2009 at 01:23 PM.
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post #2 of 82 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 02:13 PM
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OL on your meter means overrange. In case of resistance, an open circuit.

Looks like your meter only measures AC current with the clamp. But you don't have to measure current to check the R/R. I wouldn't bother trying to make resistance measurements on the R/R - the results are inconclusive at best. Your stator is ok, so you should get around 14V battery voltage when you rev the engine if the R/R works. But first, check the continuity (measure resistance) from the BK/Y wire at the R/R to the battery negative terminal. Should read close 0 ohms. Do the same from the W wire at the regulator to the positive battery terminal. Should again read close 0 ohm. Finally, with ignition on (motor not running), measure the voltage at the BR wire of the regulator. Should be about 12V. No need to disconnect anything for these measurements. If the above measurements pass and you don't get that 14V charging voltage, the regulator is bad.

Just to double check, you could measure the AC voltage from the stator while the regulator is connected. It should be a lot less than the 60V you measured.
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post #3 of 82 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 02:53 PM
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yeah... um... what he said.

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post #4 of 82 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 03:06 PM
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Jace,
set your meter to ohms ( the head phone looking symble) touch the black and red leads together ( this shows a closed circit) take the two leads apart (this shows a open circuit) with a closed circuit you should read some resistance on the meter Hope this helps

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post #5 of 82 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pappa View Post
OL on your meter means overrange. In case of resistance, an open circuit.

Looks like your meter only measures AC current with the clamp. But you don't have to measure current to check the R/R. I wouldn't bother trying to make resistance measurements on the R/R - the results are inconclusive at best. Your stator is ok, so you should get around 14V battery voltage when you rev the engine if the R/R works. But first, check the continuity (measure resistance) from the BK/Y wire at the R/R to the battery negative terminal. Should read close 0 ohms. Do the same from the W wire at the regulator to the positive battery terminal. Should again read close 0 ohm. Finally, with ignition on (motor not running), measure the voltage at the BR wire of the regulator. Should be about 12V. No need to disconnect anything for these measurements. If the above measurements pass and you don't get that 14V charging voltage, the regulator is bad.

Just to double check, you could measure the AC voltage from the stator while the regulator is connected. It should be a lot less than the 60V you measured.
I can do AC/DC, well my meter can, I don't swing that way. Yeah the clamp only does AC. I get about 13 volts at the battery when reving. Now as for measuring the resistance values on the RR. I want to do that when the RR is connected to the wires right? I have to get something down inside the backside of the connector. Cuz the manuel makes it sound like I want to have the RR removed and basically in my hand and to be checking resistance internally of the RR.

Also I measured the AC voltage of the stator with the wire disconnected from the RR, and the engine reved up to 4500 rpms. I suppose I could check it with the wires connected if I get something down inside the back of the connector.

Also in note to the techniques referred to in the other two threads I noted. I did the resistance test on the stator wires to ground and was reading .5 ohms. So from that and the amount of unloaded voltage coming out of the stator, I think that means the stator is A O K. And things are pointing to the RR.
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post #6 of 82 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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yeah... um... what he said.
smartass
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post #7 of 82 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 03:54 PM
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smartass
yeah - that's how I roll.

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post #8 of 82 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 03:54 PM
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smartass
Never hurts to get a second opinion, Jace! Just be careful about getting a replacement R/R here. He may beat you to it!

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post #9 of 82 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 04:08 PM
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if you are getting 50 to 60 volts ac between any two and of the three yellow leads coming out of your stator and this means voltage between any and all combination of two of three yellow leads coming from the stator .Ohms are inconclusive, but if you want to check I think that the book said 3to 5 ohms through any set of windings between any two yellow wires from the stator,mine read 7 oms and it charges fine.you can set your meter to continuity, it should have a picture of a horn or bell if it has an audible tone feature,check from each lead from the stator to a known good ground source ,engine case next to stator and your meter should show OL indicating the stator is not shorted to ground.If these tests are as come out normal.just hook your meter up to the positive post and the negative post on your battery and check battery voltage ,after determining your battery is charged start your bike and rev it to around 3000 RPM it should climb to around 14v, if not, and your stator checked out good,you have a problem with the rectifier circuit or the rectifier itself.I believe someone explained earlier how to check the rectifier.Since all this started when your head light quit working and you had to bypass the headlight control module,is it possible this was the cause of your original problem and the headlight not working, was an effect, not the cause of your problems,I would highly suspect the junction box area because it is the one thing the charging and head light circuits have in common,Just giving you some thing to think on ,Denny




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post #10 of 82 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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I doubt that the RR are so rare that he will beat me to one of those.

Ok denny so if my RR checks out then I might want to for sure replace the JB, which I was plannin already. I think I may replace that RR soon anyhow. Cuz I really don't want to have to replace the stator if I can help it.
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